I sold my 90 talon tsi awd yesterday and I feel a lot better now that it's gone, I put about 100 miles on it and I dumped a ton of money into it (~$2000). I don't care what some people say, I have yet to meet a person with a reliable DSM. They all seem to be allergic to being driven. I can't...

That idea did cross my mind, that maybe it's just 1 more problem away from being completely reliable. I was thinking that maybe I would have better luck once the transmission issues were fixed. that's just not the way this car works for me though. I could sink more money into it, but then...

I did end up getting the transmission and clutch put in sometime in February. when i put the new slave cylinder on I bled the hell out of it. once everything was installed and adjusted the car shifts and takes off really nicely now. but now it seems I've got water in my oil :(. i'm just so sick...

Background:I'm trying to get rid of my 90 Eagle Talon TSI (AWD) I can't count on it to be fixed for 5 minutes without some new problem rearing it's ugly head. So after about 100 miles, $2000, and a ton of headaches, and 6 months it's got to go. I was curious to see if my head gasket was blown or...

well, I was going to do a compression test, but then my 5th starter failed on me. I have no idea how or why, but it's pretty ridiculous. maybe the 4th time using the starter? I've spent way to much money on this thing, I haven't been able to drive it, and the weirdest things just keep breaking...

hey, My 90 Talon TSI AWD is just recovering from some transmission problems and now it seems like it's shifting pretty well after a trans rebuild, ACT clutch, and a couple other things. now I noticed the oil seems very thin, like watered down. I've been losing a lot of coolant and it has to be...

yea, i know, it's a 1990, its pretty old and things are gonna break. Its just something for me to think about. I would think it should be able to be a part time daily driver though. I'm afraid to drive this thing because it breaks so much. time will tell though, maybe I've got the really bad...

transmission is in, along with a ton of other new parts. the new ACT unsprung clutch is working pretty good and I installed power steering (finally!). I've got a little more work to do before its fully roadworthy, but it's close. I'm seriously considering selling this thing by the end of the...

Shift Rite, called me and said that the syncros looked ok, but I had a broken 1-2 shift fork. That makes a lot of sense, because my other gears worked fine. They'll put in an upgraded one if I can find one, so does anybody know where I can find an upgraded 1-2 shift fork? TRE has a stock one...

how much is the 2010 camaro RS (V6 w/ 6 speed)? if it's in the price range, a base model camaro would be sweet.

well, I've got some more news on my transmission issues. I got a new ACT clutch kit, it has the original style TOB. I got an unsprung disk, but it's not a puck style, and uses a heavy duty pressure plate.

eclipsedude88-search for broken timing belts and once you're educated on that, then consider starting a new topic.I readjusted the tension on my talon by getting a hook pliers and grinding it down so I had some leverage and grip to adjust the tensioner. I could slide the pin in and out of the...

I'd like to get one, but right now I don't have a job so I'll have to work with this one. at least it's brand new. Aren't the gates belts thicker? I've read an ad for them and they seemed pretty good.so I should probably tear it down again and adjust this. I released the tensioner pin and...

let me explain a little more. I do everything myself, including timing belts. I'm not terribly worried about the hydraulic tensioner, it's hell to compress in a bench vise. I'm more worried about the little pulley that keeps tension on the belt. the one you rotate counterclockwise and then...

Hey, I've had my DSM for a little while, and I haven't put more than 100 miles on it because it's had so many problems I can't seem to keep it on the road. one of the problems I had was my timing belt skipped teeth and although my compression checked out fine and I ended up replacing it with a...

twin flux capacitor? not practical for a daily driver. 300 hp is easily attained on purple blinker fluid. pink can hold a lot more power, but that stuff is expensive.

same here. gotta start somewhere. I might even do some of the winter driving stuff that goes on around here. I need a car first though, that's the big hold up.

it really won't make any difference if the bearings are welded because they shouldn't be going anywhere (need cotter pins). I put just one in each cable and I'll be using washers when i get the transmission back from a rebuild (bad clutch :( )

well I'd say that would definitely cause problem. have you looked at the other side, it's probably fine, but just in case. New axles aren't that expensive ($70-ish) and not to hard to put in.

I think funwheeldrive has a really good idea. I'm pretty sure the driver's side front axle doesn't have a clip on the splines because of the bracket that's supposed to hold it in. how does the clutch pedal feel though?

crap, i might've been able to save you a lot of trouble. maybe. I skipped 3 teeth on my talon and all I had to do was put a new belt on it. compression is perfect and everything. I tried to start it over A LOT while the belt was jumped too because I didn't know what had happened.as for BS...

well, what have you done already as far as adjusting? just a specific gear or all of them? any grinding noises yet?

no problem, nice car by the way, looks familiar. haha

that's your idle switch http://members.shaw.ca/dsm.1000q/Engineprimer/1G/idleswitch.htm

I'm getting my transmission rebuilt by a place called Shift Rite Transmissions out of Kankakee, IL. Shift Rite Transmisssions I'll keep the thread updated with info as it develops. Currently thinking about an ACT 4 puck unsprung disk with a heavy duty pressure plate.

if you can't find any leaks in the hydraulic system (look under the boots at both cylinders) first, then I would look at the pedal assembly. the only really good way to check it is to take it out and look for any worn parts. there's one part in particular that wears out and causes slop in the...

your transmission sh*t itself to death. your driving scared it. hahaha no other signs of failure other than the whining? I've only got a couple guesses for that, but they're only guesses.

that's kind of a difficult problem. the best thing to do would be welding on new tabs or something like that so the tranny can bolt to something solid. maybe make a bracket that has a nut for the bolt to go through and that nut welded to a piece of metal that can be bolted to the block somewhere.

I've taken off the transmission and found my TOB eaten up pretty badly. comparing the new clutch disk to my other stock clutch disk that I took out, I've found the center disc containing the springs is way too thick to allow the clutch do disengage without hitting the throw out bearing. I'll...

hey man, usually the obvious problems are the ones that fix the weirdest stuff. tell us what you find out :thumbsup:

ok, so its independant and very similar to my AWD talon. the solid rear end would be better for drag racing (more consistant) but independant can perform well too.

please SOMEBODY buy an 02 ram air trans am and/or the 90 IROC-Z and post pictures of it! I can't wait to get this game!!!

if that rear end can hold the power it should definitely get used.:rocks: That would make the swap a lot easier. just curious, what kind of rear end suspension is the starion? 4 link?

looks awesome. why the studs on the pressure plate? As for me, maybe next year I'll upgrade to something like this.

awesome project man, putting the heart of a third gen camaro into a starion. I used to have a V6 camaro and I'm pretty familiar with the third gen F-body. the Z28 rear end will be VERY challenging to put in because it's a solid, torque arm rear end. I would highly recommend an adjustable panhard...

the oil I was running was probably a little heavy, but 3 miles isn't going to be a huge difference. I'll look at what I had and tell ya what it was. I'm going to borrow some money from my parents and get a stage 1.5 transmission from TRE. It's the quickest way and my mom and dad want this thing...

thanks for the link, I think I've read that one before. the throw out bearing had a steel inner ring, but I don't think the throw out bearing is at fault here. it may have been the reason my clutch wasn't releasing, but it was designed to work with that clutch. I still think the flywheel is...

cool, I haven't seen those before. very nice looking. are they lightweight?

you put the vent right above the hottest part of the engine bay. so its possible you could go for a cruise. haha.

that inner ring actually makes contact with the clutch disk and not the pressure plate. I'm gonna look into the flywheel, maybe it was machined wrong because my friend pointed out that the clutch was sitting too far outward, causing the tob to scrape on it. flywheel step is supposed to be about...

nope, I didn't have an extended slave cylinder rod, which is what's really puzzling. the throw out bearing I put in came with the clutch.

I got it all out. the passenger side axle was pure luck, again. I found a perfectly sized chizel and gave it a few smacks with a hammer. the total time I put into pulling this out was about 2 hours so I'm really proud of myself. It's an improvement from the 10 hours it took me the first time. I...

I just said the hell with it and started pulling the transmission. is there an easy way to remove the passenger side axle? it's been a pain both times I've pulled the trans. any specific tools or methods? that's one of the last things I've got to take off before I drop the trans out.

way ahead of you there v8sareslow. I was pretty sure that the shift fork shouldn't be extended that far toward the passenger side. I took the boot off and looked up into the bellhousing and couldn't really see much of anything out of place. the fork is still on the pivot ball for as much as I...

seriously, it's been said a couple times in this thread. please read through the thread before posting. I bet you'll give better advice when you know what the problem is:thumb:

the pedal was stuck in the up position, but the slave cylinder was just sitting limp, maybe an inch away from the clutch fork. I've taken the slave cylinder off and disassembled it since then though.I have a RAM stock replacement clutch. RAM Automotive 88597 - RAM Premium Replacement Clutch...

my new clutch is giving me trouble, if you want more details read my thread "need help, slave cylinder related." do you think you could post a link to the 4 puck clutch you were talking about. if I need another new clutch, I'm not getting another stock replacement.

talon913-yea, you've pretty much got half of what srkegler posted about.tomorrow I'm going to tear the slave cylinder off and take it apart. rebuild kits are cheap if I need one. I'm also beginning to question the master cylinder (despite being new). this isn't just a bleeding problem anymore...

Bought a new starter and drove the Talon today. I've bled it the way srkegler described and it's still the same thing, just as bad. I'm gonna try to bleed it with a partner like the link I posted describes, and if that doesn't work, maybe it is the tranny.tried taking it for a test drive, so...

the problem has been around the entire time I've owned the car.