I actually was just sharing some info, but now realize this thread was from January not July.

Early ford rangers (86-88 I believe) came equipped with a Mitsu 4d55 turbo diesel and a mitsu fm145/6 5 speed trans, which by the way appears to have the same bell housing pattern as the 4g63. I actually was looking for one of these trucks for the longest time to do a swap like this. These...

Yeah I edited my post, somehow I missed his reply about checking the fuses.

Edit: I read that you checked the fuses under the hood.The grounds could most definitely be your issue. Once you connect your grounds, you could hook up your negative cable to the negative terminal. A battery would be better especially if your going to try and start the car. Have you noticed if...

Did you check the intake piping for any boost leaks?

I actually have my plug installed the same way on my 6 bolt. I had no clue that was the wrong way! I used a 30 or 32mm socket to drive it in. I imagine you could drive it through and flip it.I'd say get them checked out for peace of mind. I have seen threads on how your supposed to have a...

That plug is to block off the balance shaft. There's no way it would mix coolant and oil. The headgasket was most likely blown.

Spray the bolt with PB blaster and let it soak. Then try the impact again. What kind of impact are you using, and are you using the square end with no socket? Edit: just seen you said the impact is not strong enough.

The car is running rich, thats why you have to feather the throttle. Could be due to a bad coolant temp sensor, bad front o2 sensor, base timing being off, or some other things. Once you get your code reader and get the codes it will be a lot easier to figure out.

Yeah it should be a lot easier to just swap the motor and trans.

You should really invest in a obd II code reader. If you could try to borrow one, or get the codes read it would be a huge help.

I agree. Takes even less time with an impact. :thumb:

It sounds to me like the car is running rich. Pull your spark plugs out and see if they are black. Did you notice if the check engine light was on? Do you know if the engine has the front o2 sensor and engine coolant temp sensor plugged in? Sounds like you got a real headache there, but at least...

If the oil is coming in contact with your timing belt then yes. The exhaust cam seal also leaks oil on the water pump. I know this cause mine is leaking after a fresh rebuild. I wanted to replace them before I put the timing belt on, and somehow it slipped my mind.:ohdamn:

Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit InstallI just read through that page, it don't give a size it just says shorter. I believe the threads are 8mmx1.25. I can't remember how long the one I put in mine was, but I know it was at least half the length of the pulley bolt.

I would at least get all the drivetrain components. Then in spring if your gst body is in better shape you could convert it to awd. Edit: I didn't see your post till after I posted. I'd still get all the drive train components. Then you could just swap the motor and harness.

Oil leaks are frustrating on brand new parts. I used a shorter bolt with rtv where my bs pulley was. The only other thing that would be leaking is the cam seals. I know you said there not, but when they do leak its on the timing belt, and then slings oil everywhere down in that area! Not to...

Did you check that your water pipe o-ring isn't leaking at the water pump?Your oil leak could be a couple things. For example, the freeze plug for the front balance shaft, the bolt where the bs tensioner was (if removed), your castle plug o-ring, oil pump pulley seal, ofh gasket, timing cover...

Ok so, I just rebuilt and installed my 6 bolt motor. I'm setting the base timing, and just for shits and giggles, I pointed the timing light at the cam marks. The intake cam is retarded like 3 cogs with the timing light? Should the cam marks line up, like when your checking mechanical timing...

^Thats true too. I usually just back the nut till its flush with the threads, and give it a good hit with a dead blow. Like stated before, you don't have to remove the tie rod end to adjust the toe.

+1 or you could use a tie rod end seperator.

You could also just helicoil it. I imagine you cross threaded the bracket the caliper bolts to. You could also just get another bracket in the classifieds, Craigslist, or junk yard.

If you update to iOS6 you can haha. Sorry, yeah we need pics. Sounds to me like the injectors are like the ones in this pic.

If you have the balance shafts removed, no it don't matter. Do all your other timing marks line up? Did the car run before the timing belt job?

It's a small 16g. Yes I have seen that, looks like a good option. I'll just have to get my compressor housing machined.

Yeah I believe the center section is shot as well. I tore the whole thing down and noticed where the bearings sit is scored pretty bad. There was also no snap rings inside behind the bearings.

Should I replace this turbine shaft?

Did you check the relay? I have the same problem, but havent checked the relay yet, as I have other things to work out first. Edit: beat me to it!

I used the plastidip method, which looks pretty good when finished. I did however run into a problem removing the flaking. I accidently cut into the rubber on top :ohdamn:. I removed all of the rubber off the metal, as I can get another at the junkyard. As I started removing the rubber...

Well you see I have greddy piping, and originally it came with a greddy flange. The po of my car I guess had the greddy flange cut off, and a hks flange welded on. Since the piping and flanges are aluminum, I don't have the equimpment to have a greddy flange tig welded on. I had an idea of...

I believe my post is being misread. I was asking if anyone knows or makes a flange to go from the hks bov back to a greddy or 1g bov. I know they make a adapter to put a hks bov on the greddy flange. I want the opposite, and basically want to get rid of the hks.

You said you replaced the cas? Did you make sure it's not 180* out? Check this thread out. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/394020-how-test-1g-cas.html

Yes that's plug number one. Pull out that plug and see what it looks like. Post a pic of it if you can.

That's right, I looked at the picture again, and can see the layers in it. I apologize for the misinformation.

That top gasket I believe is the intake manifold gasket. Look to the left it gets wide for the egr valve. Your gasket set may have came with both 1g and 2g intake gaskets.

Those are the stock injectors from a LS1 right? I ask cause I have a part number of 17104988 which one website rates them at 72lbs/hr-765.7cc/min, and the other at 75lbs/hr-787.5cc/min. I also have a part number 17104959 which is 95lbs/hr-997.5cc/min. I'm not sure what these come on. Though the...

How does it run cold? Does it misfire at cold idle, is the fuel pump in the car is original? Just had a similar problem with my girlfriends 3g v6. It would run great cold quarter to half throttle, but as soon as you mashed the pedal it would hesitate to go. When it got up to temp, and you let it...

First thing I would do is check your spark plugs and wires. Pull the plugs and see how they look. Start with the easy stuff first.

Really? I did not know that. I used black rtv on mine, and have no leaks(except where I cracked the housing by over tightening the low oil pressure switch:ohdamn:). I also cleaned and polished the mating surfaces though.

Yeah I'm leaning towards rebuilt too.

Ah I just wanted to see of it was a hyundai head. The Hyundai heads had both large and small ports. Small port Hyundai heads has the 95-96 style cam sensor. I can't remember if the larger port heads did too. I never heard of a large port 2g head either.

Can you get a pic of the thermostat housing mount?

Not sure about them intake valves, but that's a reman tag if I'm not mistaken. Edit: Does this head have the small or big intake ports? I pulled a head from a Hyundai at the salvage yard once that had a tag just like that.

Try this out!

I agree see if you can find a used one. I would pull the head to inspect the pistons.

Well see the o-ring gets old and just starts to leak. Especially with the higher oil pressure from the bse.(or at least mine did) Now since your doing a bse, you have to replace the front case gasket.(if you pull the front case)Why not just replace it?

Cool man, post some pics!

Yeah, the rtv/jb weld should have just been used on that black plug in the top left corner.

Wow!

I figured that was the problem. You should have got a new o ring to put in there with your new gasket set. I know I did, actually I just put it on today.