I can't find the connector or wire that goes to my engine coolant temp sensor.
I looked at the wiring diagram in the back of my manual, but it's confusing
Can someone get me some pics of where the connector and wire comes from?and i have two connectors that i'm not sure where they go, but...
oh ya there's one thing i forgot, during my drive after a while my heater in the car will go cold, but when i let it cool down for a couple hours it drives fine, and the heater comes back warm, but i havent driven it since the turbo quit..and thanks i'll check that, i'm trying to get a hold of...
I put in higher compression pistons, 9:1
rebuilt my turbo
may have a slight leak at the oil pan.
I'm going to replace the thermostat today and see if that helps,
but would having the 9:1 pistons produce more heat?
I'm about 220 F at the thermostat housing after 10-15 min of driving
And...
It is current, other than i did forget to put the 255 walboro fuel pump i put in before i rebuilt the motor.
Everything is stock, besides having the block bored 0.020 over, evo IX pistons, and Balance shafts removed. It has all new timing parts, waterpump, seals, gaskets, rebuilt stock head...
Not like lauches, I dont know if i used pull the right way. Not sure what "WOT" means..Start in first accelerate quickly but not full throttle up to about 4500, shift
2nd gear up to 4500, shift
3rd up to 4500, shift
4th cruise around 2-3k for a few seconds, downshift
Engine break in 3rd...
Put in my new IAC today and it fixed alot of my problems, but one it didn't fix..I can do pulls pretty well, kinda feels like my turbo doesn't kick in all the way but i can hear it spooling with my windows down, pulls great up until around 5k then jerks violently and i let off the...
i tried wiping down with brake cleaner, soapy water, a dry paper towel, used this plastic x junk that fills small scratches and niks. i didnt try alchohol but thats like brake clean right?
Working on tinting my front lights on my 1g right now, and i keep getting these stupid little indents where the paint separates from and doesnt cover, I'm using VHT and I'm wondering what im doing wrong.. so far ive just been adding coats and wet sanding, and i'm trying really hard to keep it...
Cool, i got a list of a few cars that have the same one off of one of those links..but no matter what i do i'm gonna have some wiring work, because i have an early 1g..Mitsubishi quoted over $400 for one, the best one online I've found is $132+s&h... :(
The ISC was making this stuttering sound that was very irregular, pulled it, and it was still making the sound, was gonna make a video so you all could tell me what you guys thought of it, but as soon as i started the video it died and stopped making any noise at all, doesn't move anymore, used...
Ok, Dsmgraveyard is out of stock, couldn't even find one on mitsubishigraveyard, the third link looks best.. but dang that's spendy.... also every ISC i've found has a connector right off the motor, when the one im replacing has about a foot of wires before the connector.. so i'd have to do...
Where can i buy an isc from? found a few options but i'm wondering where
other people get theirs from..Mine was making a funny clicking noise with the ignition on, so i pulled it off and tested it and in the middle of taking a video to put on here it completely stopped working..
I live in rathdrum, Idaho.. which is close to Coeur d'Alene, Id.I'm curious as to if there is anyone in my area that is very experienced with engine building that could possibly take a look at my car for me.So far i've done everything on the car myself, but i think i may have gotten a...
I live in rathdrum, Idaho.. which is close to Coeur d'Alene, Id.I'm curious as to if there is anyone in my area that is very experienced with engine building that could possibly take a look at my car for me.So far i've done everything on the car myself, but i think i may have gotten a...
Fixed the issue, it was the pedal assembly, but i fixed it a little different than the fixes i've seen, i get a little extra travel, and i can still pull it apart. i'll post pics up when i get some time here soon... :talon:
I was talking more of getting your motor running at an optimal level for the break in, i would think you would want the motor purring when your breaking it in..I'm not worried about the break in process, i already have that planned.I did do a break in run, but when i was transbraking it...
Kinda curious from experienced motor builders here..What are the general steps taken, and processes that need to be done to get a good "tune" out of a freshly rebuilt motor?Just thought this may be a good topic..thanks.
Ok.. so i've spent a good amount of time under my dash by the pedals and here's what im looking at..I used the Phoenix tool and ran 3 containers of brake fluid up through the clutch bleeder to the resevoir so there is no way i have air in the system.the pedal can be freely moved up and down...
That sounds like the EXACT same as mine.Here's my process i've gone through.. i also found a huge thread i've been trying to read through and i'll post the link.. I'm also gonna try using a "phoenix" tonight instead of bleeding it by pumping it..Bought my talon a few years ago and...
Bought my talon a few years ago and it had a clutch issue that the guy couldn't figure out how to fix.. me and my dad replaced the TOB fork and it was fine no problems what so ever, the guy had the wrong fork in.Now I just finished rebuilding my motor. I bought a USED transmission for fairly...
i already sent them an email. just not sure what to do because it was a indirect purchase. and the guy swears up and down it came that way. but they say they are the best so i'm sure they can help me out..
Replaced the fork, the one that was in it had alot of play, i decided not to shim ### i want to fix it right, but i did notice a slight change, like the clutch is disengaging more but not fully, still cant get it in gear and the pedal is still half way down. i have no more room for adjustment on...
Just got a used hallman evolution, but it doesn't have the machined adjustment knob, instead it has this POS plastic thing that doesnt even lock on the end of the cable, controller and cable look legit, but the guy says thats how it came when he bought it. WTF did the hallman evolution kit used...
Got it in a while ago, sorry i forgot to come post back and let you all know.I loosened up all the mounts, and remove the rear mount.I then put the mounting bolt through both mounts, and threaded in the mount.Then i tightened all the mounts up again and isn't going anywhere...
They sell spray paint for engines, its called engine enamel.
I was told when you paint your block black helps to diffuse heat from the block.
I've never seen anyone paint the cylinder head, i think it would just make it hold more heat.
As for all the other parts it should be fine.
YouTube - how to fix a tire without a tire machine part 2Here ya go bud :heystupid:If your bead is the problem.. check where it's leaking with water first.
Pretty sure the FORK was the problem, we'll know as soon as i get this trans back on.. man this sucks without another set of hands... Oh well.. at least it's raining :D
Thanks you two. ziggo i appreciate the humor.Just thought i'd see what you guys thought..I'm having a hell of a time getting this trans back in though..
That would made sense too, but i doubt my pressure plate collapsed.. but how would i tell just in case?When i bought the car i had a similar problem and ended up removing the tranny three times before we found the right clutch fork...
re-bled the clutch today, no change.Don't want to mess with the adjust ment settings ### i know they are where they should be because i haven't even touched anything on the haudralic system since the last time the clutch worked.My conclusion right now is that i have the wrong clutch fork...
Ya it drove fine, other than it broke two timing belts, first time wasn't fatal, second was.can you bleed the master cylinder?We bled it at the slave, i dont think im leaking any fluid under the boot.I've been reading different posts but im not sure ### i haven't seen any pics ### they...
ya i did all torque specs correctly, never pulled off the slave, but i think the rod may have fell out once when i was putting it back on. i put a used trans in, came with a fork. im just not sure why my pedal is only returning half way..
Just to check and make sure there was no air in the line from sitting, and trying to figure out if that was the problem with the clutch not disengaging.I put a new motor in the car, and havent changed any of the clutch setting on the car from when i used to drive it.
Bled correctly, and my clutch pedal will only move half way up after i push it down, i can pull it to even with the brake pedal but it wont return on its own. Thought about shimming the pivot ball but the clutch would still only return half way up.. the adjustment rod is out almost as far as it...
Thanks, i actual read your thread looking for an answer to my fans..
and the runners seem pretty accurate.. it's right off the head, #4 runs ~519 F, #3  run 521 F, and #1 runs 324 F.I have no exterior leaks i can see, and i think i may have a bubble in the radiator, it burped once but i...
Ok.. so i got the talon started last night, but the cooling fans don't seem to be kicking on, i measured the temp of the coolant with a temp gun and it was at around 190-200 at the thermostat, a few degrees cooler at the top of the radiator, and the driver side of the radiator was only at 40...
These are my last electrical connetions.I think the one to the air filter is just a ground. but i dont know where the loop and connector off of the harness that goes to the starter goes...