I'm looking for a replacement hard upper intercooler pipe for my spyder. I found one flanged for my bov but it's for a 1g and wanted to know the difference between the two. I know the intercoolers are different but wasn't sure about the actual upper intercooler pipe.Thanks,
Figured I would update this in case someone experiences something similar it ended up being 2 things. The nozzle at the end of my fuel pump had came loose and wedged itself sideways in the fuel pump housing and the crank sensor was bad.
I rotated the engine to tdc and the timing marks lined up on the lower timing cover. I tried something else today I unhooked the return line from the fpr and applied 12 volts to the fuel pump and nothing came out. I tried the same thing with my other dsm and fuel poured out. If I remove the...
I'm trying to avoid taking all the pulleys and covers off to check the timing unless someone thinks that could be the cause. Like I said before though it runs perfectly fine for the few seconds it does idle. I let it sit overnight last night and applied 12 volts to the fuel test pump this...
I don't see any loose connectors. I did a blt and it was fine except for a minor leak around the throttle body but that one has been there just haven't gotten around to rebuilding the throttle body. I swapped out the ecu and the cas (one mounted on the side of the valve cover) with another one...
It just dies as if the ignition was turned off. It doesn't idle long enough for the heater on the wideband to warm up and give a afr. Won't stay running even with a little throttle. I'm at work now but I will do another blt when i get off and see what I got. I always thought that even with...
It was the coupler on the j-pipe but that was the coupler I replaced I can do a blt to make sure but I did did try to run it with the maf unhooked as well to no avail.
I blew a intercooler coupler on my way home last night. I couldn't get it to crank back up it would just turn over. I replaced the coupler this morning and was able to get it to crank it idled fine for a few seconds then died. I thought maybe it was fuel related because I couldn't hear my...
Alright thanks I will double check the front shaft and it was a local shop that did the last timing belt job. I'm guessing they didn't change the balance shaft belt and just did the timing belt.
I went ahead and checked the oil pan bolts but the 2 short bolts are in the correct spot according to this diagram. However when I pulled the lower timing belt cover the balance belt was broke into 2 pieces I'm not sure how long it has been like that. Could that be the cause of the timing belt...
I'm about to change the timing belt on my 2g talon. I pulled the cover off and there is significant wear on the timing belt side closest to the engine. I haven't fully disassembled everything else yet but kinda wanted to know if anyone has ran into a similar problem before.
Here is a better pic of the crankshaft and oil sprocket I will spray everything down with contact cleaner as I'm going along I haven't had the car too long I bought it for a daily driver that's why I'm trying to get the timing belt changed since u have no idea if it's ever been done.
Okay guys thanks for the help I think I have everything lined up I took a few pics just for clarification. The camshafts and oil pump sprocket were pretty much already lined up the only thing I had to do was turn the crankshaft 1/4 counter clockwise and it lined up as well. Everything look...
Long story short my engine mount broke loose from the block. I had to remove the mounting bracket attacked to the block to drill and tap out the holes. My problem is I had to pull the bottom portion of the timing belt off to remove the bracket but I didn't rotate the crank to top dead center...
Checked the o-rings in the end clutch kit they looked fine. Still no reverse the car will roll forward and back in reverse (like its in neutral) so I don't even think the gear is engaging.
I've double and triple checked everything with the valve body so it can't hurt to take apart the end clutch and look at the o-rings. Would that cause the no reverse though? I thought the end clutches only affected 4th.
Okay I figured out why it wouldn't shift into 4th. I didn't put the spring back in for the 2-3/4-3 shift valve when I put the shift kit in. I double checked everything else put it back in and now I don't have reverse. I pulled it again and made sure the o-ring was still on the valve body and...
Doesn't free rev just stays in 3rd and doesn't try to engage 4th. I had 4th prior to installing the shift kit so I'm thinking I did something wrong with the install. I just gotta figure out what part of the valve body would affect 4th gear and what I did wrong.
I let the car cool down overnight and checked them again this morning here is what I got: The pressure control solenoid valve (blue wire) was at 5 ohms, the torque converter clutch solenoid coil (red wire) was at 15 ohms, The shift control solenoid valve A and B coils (Orange and yellow wire)...
I went ahead and tested the solenoids The yellow wire was at 26ohms the red wire was at 18ohms the orange was at 26ohms and the blue was at 5ohms. Does that seem to be in range?
I will add that everything worked fine prior to putting in the shift kit. I followed the vfaq and ipt's youtube video when I installed the kit so I'm pretty sure its right. I also pulled the tcu and opened it up no burnt/rotting egg smell.
I recently installed a translab shift kit every since the install I don't have overdrive/4th. I thought it might be the end clutches so I replaced them with a set from ipt. Then I got a 1750 cel and limp mode so I swapped out the shift solenoids. All this and I still don't have 4th. I have...
I just put a translab stl-175-hp shift kit in my dsm. After I got everything put back together I took it for a drive everything was fine until it went to shift into 4th it engaged for a moment and then kicked back down into 3rd. Now it won't engage 4th at all and if I drive it for an extended...
I feel like a complete noob I didn't remove the 2 bolts. I'm used to the fwd's that don't have that bracket. Thanks guys for the help I should have asked sooner rather than spend a whole day jerking the car around and risking damaging something else.
I was in the middle of changing my shocks when I noticed the cv boot was torn on the drivers side axle. I went to go change it and noticed I couldn't get the half shaft out of the transmission. I used a tire iron and bent it when I pushed with both legs trying to pry it out. I then went and...
Well I figured out the problem the previous owner really had this rigged up. The bushing for the rear differential mounting bracket was completely shot so they put a polyurethane one in its place the problem is its too small so it was just sitting in there. Also the bolt that holds the...
I was letting off the clutch after shifting into 2nd it wasn't a launch. Whatever broke it happened when 2nd gear engaged but the noise is coming from the rear so doesn't seem like a tranny issue. I was able to still drive it just a lot of constant popping from the rear.
I was driving home from work the other day I stopped at a traffic light about 1/2 mile from my house. I turned right when I shift from 1st to 2nd there is a loud thump from the rear end then a constant popping/clicking noise. I limped it home with the popping/clicking continuing at anything...
I'm having a very difficult time removing the brake booster. I have the master cylinder and resevoir removed. I've disconnected the brake pedal and removed the 4 nuts from under the dash but I can't seem to wiggle the booster itself out. There just doesn't seem to be enough clearance to...
Ok I changed out the master cylinder with a known working one and still the same spoongy pedal. I then took the hose off that goes from the brake booster to the intake manifold. It didn't appear to be cracked anywhere so I put it back on the opposite way it came off. The brake pedal became...
I having issues getting a firm feel from my brake pedal. I've bled the system multiple times and the pedal is still spongy. If I bleed the system with the car off the pedal is firm but as soon as I start the car the pedal goes soft again. I bled them in the following order RR, LF, RL, RF...
I used an ohm meter and rotated it until it read .9 ohms at closed throttle but it only reads 4.5 ohms at open throttle the guide I used called for 5 ohms at open throttle. I could swap out the coil and power transistor pack with my other car but it does have strong spark on all 4 cylinders...
Stock boost, stock injectors, no cels. The problem may be the tps I did have to replace it when I first got the car. I didn't have a feeler gauge to adjust it correctly.
I recently picked up a 2g awd for a good price but have been having problems getting it running 100%. The car will idle fine but when you try and drive it as soon as you hit boost it bogs horribly and sometimes backfires. So far I have replaced the spark plugs (gapped at .30), changed the plug...
Ok thanks guys well the antilock brake light is on and I haven't been able to figure out why and the rpms do fluctuate up and down when idling I thought it was a bad tps but it still does it a little even after I replaced the tps
I picked up a 2g recently but it has a few problems. Recently I've noticed that if you pump the brakes while the car is idling the rpms will drop and the car will shut off. Any idea of what my problem could be?
Right now its only the axle that is stuck in the hub but I can't slide the knuckle over the axle until I get the two separted. Its all of the rear bushings I'm trying to replace. I've gotten all of them except the 3 bushings in the knuckle.
I'm in the middle of installing new bushing in the rear of the gsx. But for the life of me I cannot get the rear knuckle removed from the car. I've basically removed the bulk of the suspension and this thing isn't budging any advice?
I just picked up a 95 gsx but the rear suspension is shot. Both shocks and wheel bearings need replaced. I also have a 95 rs that was totaled in a front end collision. My question is can I use any of the suspension parts from the rs on the gsx?Thanks,
The gauge I have is for the low side on the a/c line closest to the compressor there are 4 reading on the gauge. Green=Add Refrigerant, Blue=Correct Refrigerant, Yellow=May be overcharged, and Red=May have mechanical problems. Mine reads about half way into the red when connected. I'm not...
I'm having a problem with my a/c this year. It was working great last year but now it will only blow hot air. The belt is fine, the pulley on the compressor spins, checked the fuses, swapped relays, both radiator fans work, but when I hooked an a/c recharge gauge up the reading were in the...
The car doesn't want to accelerate at all I always have to take it out of gear then put it back in and the shifter shakes uncontrolably when it happens.
Fluid was changed at the same time as the cluth, flywheel, and pressure plate was upgraded. Not sure if the original transmission is still in the car but there are approx 170K on the car.