Sold.

Just a final update to this thread. Even though I had double checked the fuses, I decided to triple check all the small things before I started tearing into the car. So glad I did, turned out it was the main motor fuse. It looked ok at a glance but upon further inspection it was no bueno. All...

Guess I'll start checking as much as I can. The crank sensor looks like a huge pain in the ass...

Put new plugs and wires in and still no start. It'll crank but won't fire at all. Are you able to hear the factory fuel pump prime before you start the car? The last one I had had a 255 in it so I don't remember how loud the factory pump is, I can't hear it at all on startup. I guess I'll start...

I figured but I started there, I'll test the unit itself if I need to for sure.

Did the timing belt check again and they do line up so I'm good there. The PTU plug was tight but I pulled it out and plugged it back in. Putting in new plugs and wires and I'll see if that works!

This is good advice, I'll try and line them up again, I think you may be right. I'll also check the PTU, thanks for the tip!

So this past weekend I was driving to a meet around 45mph and the car died. At first it just lost all power, was barely holding an idle, but the Tachometer showed zero. I pulled the car over and tried to start it again but no luck. It would crank but wouldn't turn over. All the fuses and...

I've had 2 ARP SS kits break on me, never had a single OEM break.

Finally got the exhaust finished. Hopefully this will help anyone in the future looking for a complete answer. My setup is a CXRacing recirculated o2 housing, then the Punishment Racing 3" downpipe, then the Thermal R&D catback.Since the Thermal exhaust is designed to mate up to the factory...

Just an update to this thread for anyone searching for an answer in the future. The PR DP does NOT bolt up to the Thermal catback. The Thermal necks down to 2.5" where it meets the DP, and the angle is also off. I'm having to get a welder redo the connection, probably going with a V-Band...

Oh snap! I'm in Aiken too! Don't think I've seen you around before...

Yes I'm waiting to hear back from them now, hopefully they respond, but also wanted to get real world feedback from people who have had it.

I realize the thread title kind of sucks, and yes, I have searched and searched and searched but not found exactly the answer I'm looking for. I have a 2gb 5 speed GSX, and I want to replace the exhaust. I've made it as far as a CX Racing o2 housing and a Punishment Racing 3" DP. My question is...

She's gonna have to be a pretty terrible damn driver to lose.

If you have 2 bad sensors you need to replace them. Start there.

He asked if it's possible, yes it's possible, just take your time and do it carefully. Many, many people have done it before with success.

Make that 4 times lol. Talk about overkill.

Slap on some FP2's or CompCams 101200's (same cam) and go, you will be happy with them. You can get a used set for around $300. And yes I have used them and made great power with them so I'm not posting misinformation.

I used to have one, it's actually surprisingly reliable, as long as you take care of it. Good little car, just try to talk them down on the price a bit.

You've already gotten all the answers you need. No need to rehash the previous 4 pages all over again.

The .48 will be great for spool but your top end will be limited, I would personally go with the .63.

x2The OP says "guys you won't BELIEVE" who did this!!! And then tells everyone to be respectful and not guess...lol. Should have posted this up after it was resolved with the machinist.

There's no way for them to prove it.

That wasn't what I asked, I was wondering if it's a stock block with all new oem parts or the original untouched block and internals.

The answer to that will vary depending on who you talk to, but I would have no concerns at all running 350 whp on the stock motor and tranny, even up to 400 whp if everything is taken care of and maintained. Anything over that I would start fortifying the motor with ARP hardware and the like...

Order the Punishment Racing kit and be done with it.PUNISHMENT RACING FMIC KIT: 1995-99 ECLIPSE/TALON - Punishment Racing

This may have been addressed in another thread so sorry for my ignorance. Is this the original from the factory untouched block, or is it a stock block assembled with all new oem parts?

Bring money. You will get the title. Also bring 2 copies of a bill of sale from the dmv, you can also type up one of these yourself if you have to. One copy for you and one for him. If you agree on a "lower price" (wink wink) this will go on the bill of sale that you bring to the tax office...

I've owned an SRT-4 as well as 2 2g FWD's. Stop worrying about crankwalk first off. Just look for the usual things when you buy a used car, rust is a biggy though.As far as the engine and transmission, yes they are stout, if you plan on keeping it mostly stock you will have no issues with...

It's not what it seems. All it is is you paying them for "discounts" on products that you could find cheaper somewhere else anyways. It's basically a legal scam as far as I'm concerned.

Semantics. It's a way to get the car running right.

If you have a 16g on there now you should have the Mitsu exhaust manifold as well.

Very nice Jeff, keep us updated as much as possible!

You won't be able to tune properly at all without a wideband, you need one asap before you do anything else.

The classifieds on here usually have plenty.http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/4g63-dsm-parts-for-sale-1/freshly-rebuilt-big-16g-40553/http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/4g63-dsm-parts-for-sale-1/evo-3-16g-fwd-flywheel-exhaust-manifolds-38955/?catid=searchresults&searchid=254861...

I will take the manufacturer's word over it over some people on a forum who may or may not have had issues. If Innovate says not to put it that close to the turbo, I won't do it. Had it farther downstream with zero issues on multiple turbo cars. I prefer not to replace sensors very often...

Far and away the easiest thing to do is weld a new bung in the DP, a shop can do it for under $20. Needs to be far enough away from the turbo that it doesn't get damaged, usually just before the flex section on most DP's, but not too far away either. Also make sure you put it in at the right...

I'm confused, are you saying the one on there now is an ebay 16G? If so you should already have everything you need for installation for another 16g. Best bang for the buck is a lightly used or rebuilt Evo III 16g.

As long as you stay out of boost it doesn't matter what size the turbo is.

I'm in the middle of installing mine now. The biggest problem I've run into so far is the exhaust hangers, I'm gonna have to take them to a shop to bend them out far enough to work, they're almost flush with the piping.

I'm in N. Chas, should have my FWD ready in about 2 weeks as well lol

There's a lot of different turbos that could get you there, you just have to do a lot of research to help you find out which one best fits your needs.As for the wideband, like I already said, AEM or LC-1, they both work great, only thing is you can't log AFR's with the AEM (without some...

6 bolt motor, 4 bolt rear.

Sorry but he's pretty much right as far as the turbo being garbage. You're MUCH better off picking up a used MHI turbo for not much more.You will need a wideband if you plan on doing any tuning at all, plus it's just a smart thing to have. I've had both the AEM and LC-1, I personally prefer...

There's not very many left but there's a few. Mine has been jackstand ballin for some time now, hope to have it running in the next few weeks.

Welcome! I am in Charleston as well.

Your explanation didn't really help. And she's married. Creepster. lol

Just hand tighten it, no need to crank it down. You don't need RTV either, just a new gasket and you're good to go.