I've tuned quite a few different makes with different airflow setups and EMS systems over the past decade. I can't say that I haven't been able to get driveability of a MAF setup with a MAP. MAP has always been easy to tune on, maybe easier than MAF; that really depends on the EMS software...

Is the check engine light on? What reason did you change the tps?

I just use any old air die grinder. I've used just about every mid-range die grinder, not a whole lot of difference. Right now I'm using a husky but the trigger lock slides against plastic, so it's not as smooth of an action. Look for something with a trigger lock that slides against metal for a...

Exactly. Remember; if you ever want more power, it's easier to change your tune than change your pistons. Go with the slightly higher compression pistons if you have the ability to get it retuned.

I ran a similar setup for (9:1 Wiseco's, bastard 20g) for a couple of years on pump for a couple of years without a problem. I've recently tuned a couple of 9:1 pump engines; one with a ebay 20g on 22psi, one with a GT35 at 20psi. They usually require a little less timing.

For grounds, just make sure you have a good metal to metal contact from the transmission to frame, intake manifold to frame, battery to frame. You can't have these bolted to a painted surface; the bolt alone may not provide sufficient ground area.Also, make sure the heavier gauge wire(s)...

Did you install a OEM plug and play fan or an aftermarket? I can't remember the exact temp. the fan will turn on at, but if you reach 210* and it hasn't, you have an issue somewhere. Check your fuse and relay; check for continuity from the fan wiring to the oppoiste side of the relay. Do you...

Click the link at the top right of that page to get to the main thread for more info and more connector diagrams.B = Black Lg = Light green Sb = Sky blue V = Violet O = Orange Y = Yellow Br = Brown G = Green Gr = Gray L = Blue P = Pink R = Red W = White

You need to fix that wiring, then let it idle and check charging output at the battery with a multimeter. I've spent days diagnosing poor charging system output that turned out to be a bad wiring connection or blown alt. fuse.

Yes, you will be ok with those injectors with ecuflash; I've run twice that with very little affect on driveability. You'll want to get a wideband or have it tuned asap, but you shouldn't have any issues with just scaling the injectors.

Nothing you can do once the rings have been washed out. It usually ruins the rings and scratches up the cylinder. You'll need to tear it down, replace the rings and rehone the cylinder and hope nothing else was damaged.It's a little strange that the issue showed up immediately after the cam...

Just got around to inspecting the cams I pulled a couple of weeks ago from my 7 bolt. The previous owner claimed they were 272's, but they looked stock to me. I noticed a few numbers stamped on the end of the intake cam though, wondering if anyone could ID these for me or if those numbers are of...

What did you use for a throttle body gasket? I've seen rtv clog vacuum ports. Pull your tb off and check the IM side for obstructions.

Board traces can be pulled up at the eprom/socket side too, and can be difficult to notice without pulling the socket out or checking continuity. If you continue having problems with that ecu, I'd either send it in to the guys at ECMlink for repair, or cut your losses with it, buy another pcm...

What wideband are you using to tune with?

It sounds like you've got the most common issues checked out, now you'll probably have to pull out a test light and start checking for power going into and coming out of your fusebox and to your various sensors and ecu. You may want to grab an ETM and check to make sure ALL of your grounds are...

I had a parts car I pulled a factory amp from that had a cable running to it, similar to the one in your picture. The amp (Infinity?) was mounted beneath the passenger seat.

No stethoscope, but I did try a long screwdriver. Didn't work so well for me, but I'll borrow a steth from a coworker this week if I can.It's a normal Gates, not a blue kevlar. I am positive my belt tension was correct. This last time, the drill bit and grenade pin both moved in and out...

I didn't run it long enough to notice, probably just wasn't paying a whole lot of attention. The thing had been sitting for 5 years, I was mainly concerned with knocks and leaks. I just peeked into the spark plug holes to check out the pistons. I had spare 7-bolt and 6-bolt longblocks at the...

Well I'm back from a full day of trying to diagnose this thing. I pulled it all apart and started from scratch, lubricated the tensioner arm, verified all of my timing components were still in good shape and were the right parts for my engine(and showed no signs of rubbing against anything)...

I've had a few cars with the battery/charging system light on that turned out to be alternator/relay/fuse related. Check the alternator fuse, and have the alternator and battery tested. As far as the low coolant light, have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

Tension clockwise even on a 2g 7-bolt? I'll try it out and see what my pulley clearances looks like, pulling it all apart now.

I tensioned it counter-clockwise, with the two holes beneath the bolt facing down.

I just might do that, I'll probably pull all of the timing components one more time tomorrow and redo it. It's almost inaudible at idle and quiets a little when warmed up.One thing I noticed on these Dayco pulleys, the tensioner pulley doesn't have a polished finish like the original or the...

I get the same when I use my year/model. I just search part numbers now (works on advancedauto's site, not sure about autozone) and order online to pickup in store. I believe the part numbers you need are either 4923 out 5534. They'll let you add to cart whether they fit your car or not, but...

You could very well have a boost leak. I have one now that had multiple(LICP, UCIP, TB shaft seals) and would bog and sputter right when boost would start to come on but drove fine otherwise; also wouldn't rev passed 3k rpm while sitting still. Did a boost leak test, found and fixed leaks. It...

The car sat for 4-5 years until I picked it up a few months ago. All fluids drained before starting. It's a '95(early '95 I believe), the guy said it has Wiseco pistons and Eagle rods(don't they all say that?), and I don't see any casting marks/numbers on the pistons(63dT, arrows, etc), so he...

I'm looking for some suggestions on the source of this whine coming from the timing belt area. I've just changed the timing belt along with the idler and tensioner pulleys and auto-adjuster(Gates belt, Dayco components). Previous owner cut the B-shaft belt and put a bolt where the tensioner...

Socket it and visit the dsmecu forum or dsm-ecu yahoo group to learn more about chipping/programming yourself. The easier(and arguably better) way out is Dsmlink, but it's never hurt anyone to learn more about the different options available and expand their knowledge about the inner workings of...

Check out F.I.S.T. Great shop, very knowledgeable group of guys.

I realize most Honda's are a little lighter, but there are hundreds of 400+whp civics and integras that are street driven. Even with drag radials on the street you won't have much traction until 3rd gear, but by the time you reach over 400whp, you should have already invested in a set of wheels...

I have a big 16g on my car, stock everything else, and the most boost I've seen with the BCS mod is maybe as high as 10lbs, usually a hair above 9lbs. I do have a slight boost leak at the tb shaft seals though, so I'm hoping to see another lb or two when I fix that.

I've done it on Honda's and other older cars/muscle cars, not the dsm yet. The ecu on older cars doesn't usually send variable voltage to regulate fuel pump pressure. It usually only needs battery voltage and ground to pump fuel. The fuel pump re-wire mod for dsms is giving the pump constant...

I know these are nearly useless, but I got this and an autometer boost gauge for free. I went off of a few diagrams and am sure it's installed right.1: The led stays at full lean until the car is moving and past 1500 rpm. Revving in neutral doesn't change it.2: When I'm not giving it any...

As far as I know, you'll need a wbo2 sensor and a wideband controller, such as the Innovate unit. I don't think the ecu or datalogger can read or translate a wideband signal on it's own. This wideband o2 sensor replaces the factory front o2. Most decent wideband controllers have a narrowband...

I don't have a lot of experience with maf's, but I just assumed when I saw the logs and the flat/topped out airflow reading that it was because of the following quote:Habitatguy, thanks for posting that. It may help me diagnose my issue. That's exactly what I'm experiencing. Tons of knock...

The single wire plug at the powersteering pump is the pressure switch I believe. I don't know specifics, but on the logger it shows the powersteering switch inactive with the wheel straight, and active with any steering wheel movement. I'm guessing the ecu uses that input for idle compensation...

Are you syncing straight to the computer serial or using a serial to usb adapter? I had trouble syncing to work computers for awhile and my laptop only has usb. I picked up an adapter and couldn't get it to sync until I chose 'serial' in hotsync manager and com3. It pops up a message about "com6...

I wouldn't recommend removing the lower honeycomb. I currently have mine out. My idle is slightly rough now, and I'm chasing down a lean/knock issue that could be related to it. Leave it in and get a safc or comparable device if you want to lean it out a little.Without the bov recirculated...

I'm having a similar problem as yours with not nearly as many mods. I do have a rewired pump though, which doesn't seem to be making a difference either way. My maf has the lower honeycomb and I'm starting to lean towards the thought that it may be a problem. I get a ridiculous amount of knock...

Just an update:A/c works now! I took it in to an a/c shop and they said they suspected whoever converted the a/c to R134 never put freon back in it! Freon filled, but the a/c wouldn't work. After swapping around & replacing a couple of the fuses and relays, the compressor kicked on and blew...

Well it's only the lower honeycomb removed. I figured it had something to do with the slightly rough idle but not sure if it has anything to do with the bogging. I may just pick up a 2g maf if I need a new one.

The autometer gauge reads just about 10 lbs of boost. All I've done is remove the BCS restrictor, and the MAF was hacked by the previous owner. The car is otherwise bone stock. I checked the knock sensor 2 months ago, and it looked fine. Maybe it was on it's way out though, because that's around...

It's always good to have long term goals, but I think you're getting a little ahead of yourself. A built stroker engine is overkill for a 16g. That turbo will run out of breath before it makes enough power to need upgraded internals.Read through the upgrade paths and start there. There are...

I can't figure out how to properly save and upload the Pocketlogger logs in a way that allows others to download and open them right. I think I've figured out the MMCD files and re-hosted them on Megaupload. I use openoffice spreadsheet to view them, so that may have an effect on others using...

I just picked up a Palm M100 and Pocketlogger cable/software. I'm still learning how to read and understand the logs, and I'm not quite sure if I have the saving/uploading figured out yet.My engine has recently started to randomly bog down and/or hesitate. I double checked my vacuum hoses...

From what I've read, r134 has the threads on the inside of the fittings and r12 has them on the outside. Mine has them on the inside, so I believe it's been converted to r134. The a/c compressor was loose whenever I got the car, and hanging by a bolt, so it's possible the guy tried to remove the...

When I got my car, the a/c tensioner/pulley and belt were off. I bought and installed those, but the a/c hasn't been blowing cold. I finally picked up a Pocketlogger and it doesn't show the a/c clutch light flashing on/off when I turn the a/c on/off. Anyone have any suggestions where to start...

Maybe this link from the pocketlogger site will help some. They say it should read around 9-10% when closed. I set mine with a multimeter and it read's 13% on the logger.Parameter Meanings