Is the wiring still in place for the tcu? If so, you should be able to use it for your shift box. They give very good installation instructions on their site.

The shifter moves a cable. The cable goes to a shaft on the transmission. The shaft goes thru an electrical switch and then down to the valve body.It is in this electrical switch that controls the shift soloniods. To run the soloniods, you need 12v. The manumatic mod does this thru the...

Not sure on the shift box wiring, but as far as the shifter goes, just hook the cable to it and shift. I would have to assume that the box will need wired to the shift soloniods in the transmission. That's easy enough. It will probably need a rpm signal from the ecu and an overdrive switch.

I did it because I can revert back to stock if I wanted to. It is easier to wire the 92 selector. You can take it off the top of the transmission and wire it on the bench. Then it's just a matter of running a couple of wires into the cab. Mine was a manual 5 speed that I swapped for an auto.

Nope, just the stock shifter. I did take the controller off the top of the transmission and replace it with a 92. The 93 is a modular setup and the 92 has a wiring harness.

I would say it was probably the tow truck and the 1st to 3rd shift. That's a lot of torque on those gears.

I run the manumatic setup and shift with the shifter. I like it and it's simple.

Freelancers on here can do it pretty cheap. Definitely upgrade the clutches. The alto kit has the end clutches. The upgraded front clutch kit comes from kiggley.

Youtube dsm transmission. Transdude did a bunch of them. Atdsm.com has a bunch of information also. I found it pretty simple. I also did all the bushings. I didn't want any problems. Harbor freight sells a bushing driver kit. I also found myself using alternate methods to drive them home...

2500.00? I built mine for less than 500.00. I did the rebuild myself. If you're going to be throwing some torque at it, just freshen it up with new clutches and seals. A clutch and seals kit is only 250.00 shipped from alto.

Have you checked YouTube? Kaxlon has done quite a few.

Does the boost gauge goto 0 and check engine light come on when you turn the key to the on position? If not, ecu is bad.

Did you replace the oil cooler? If not, that will contribute to trashing an engine in no time as well. Trying to clean them is pointless. I would throw the one you have now in the trash and run an external setup. Do not reuse the one you have now. It is contaminated with metal bits.

Now that you manually shift, let's hear your shift points in normal day to day traffic. I shift at 4000, 3500, 3500, 3000.

Dang, that sucks. If you need hard parts, the fwd shares quite a bit with the awd unit. Almost everything from the pump back to the transfer gears.

Are you speed density? I have driven my car with the intercooler pipe blown off, and it drove just fine. I also don't use closed loop. If you're speed density, the fuel is metered by what the map sensor is reported.

That's fixable. I would take it off and weld it. Welding parts on a vehicle can have bad influences on other parts. A couple that come to mind.......alternator, ecu, tcu...I have personally blown an ecu welding on a truck. You won't need to retune afterwards, nothing was added or changed...

Not sure if this would count as a double post. You can just tap into the maf plug. Not sure why this seems so hard. The hard part is choosing the place you want to hook it to. The 1 g is slightly limited. If you're going to run a maf AND log a map, and log wide band, there's limits to our 1g ecu.

In order for your idle to go that high, you need extra air, fuel. I would first check your idle position sensor, throttle body ground, leaks around injectors, leaks at bov, VACUUM hoses, throttle body gaskets.

Pull the 5 volts off the maf plug.

If it's wet, the seals are failing. You lose pressure at that point. Honest, replace the rubber line and the slave. They have just as much exposure to the brake fluid as the master cylinder. The braided stainless line is cheap, and it will improve the pedal feel. Standard upgrade when...

Pull the rubber boot back on the inside of the car on the clutch rod. If you have fluid there, need to replace the master cylinder. The seals wear out and it is a service item. Do the slave as well since you're going to be replacing the fluid. While you're doing the slave, nows a good time...

I always had a habit of putting the car in 2nd and then 1st after a complete stop at the lights before I take offSounds like the shafts are still spinning and blocking the engagement. If the gear oil has never been changed, start there. Go with the mt90. It's a proven performer.

End clutches can also smoke due to a bad bushing in the connector shaft. The best mod I did to my transmission was the kiggley wiring mod. I've tried chips and the shift kit, still wasn't what I was looking for. Ended up doing the manumatic wiring mod and love it.

It's a chip emulator. On the fly tuning. It's like having your chip, but you can change the tune without pulling the ecu. Just hook up a laptop, get tunerpro, find a bin, and tune. They can be bought here: http://www.moates.net/ostrich-20-the-new-breed-p-169.html?cPath=69

Full line pressure http://kiggly-racing.com/auto_shifter_wiringThat will give you full time, full line pressure. You will also have to change gears manually. Does away with the tcu. Since you're already chipped, why not get an ostrich, and tune it yourself with tunerpro.

Link won't. It's only for the ecu. The tcu is different pins on the diagnostic port. I have a 1g, but the transmission is the same except for lock up. No overdrive? No second? I would try supplies each solenoid with 12v and listen for a click in the transmission. Do each one separate. If...

Are you still running the stock 13 g turbo and stock manifold? I didn't see any mods in your profile. Any tuning done? My awd auto is quite peppy. But, I have full line pressure, and I manually shift. Factory stall as well. In stock setup, the awd autos are a slug. The shifts are sloppy...

I have a 92 with a 93 automatic. The only difference is going to be where the wiring hooks up to the transmission. That's an easy fix. Just pull the inhibitor off your original transmission and put it on the 93. It's only 1 nut, 2 washers to pull the selector off, and 2 bolts to remove the...

Sounds good. Put it here.

I have had the same problem with brass and stainless. I eventually ran a copper tube up the the fender where the ps can used to be, and isolated the sensor from vibration. You could also fab up a block manifold to hold both sensors of you wanted.

Other than the bushing driver kit(which DOES NOT have all the right size drivers) basic hand tools will work. You're going to have to be creative with driving in the big bushings, or take the parts to a transmission shop and they will make quick work of it. I've seen threads on here on how to...

I bought a good set of snap ring pliers, a bushing driver kit from harbor freight. You're going to need a big c clamp to compress the drums, or YouTube w4a33 and there's some good info on a threaded rod setup to compress the drums. I also suggest a large tub and mineral spirits for cleaning...

There are ways around them, but I would just start looking. Having an extra ecu is always a good with these cars.

Sounds like the tcu if it's 3 plugs by the firewall.

I rebuilt my own transmission for around 350. That included a red alto full rebuild kit, kiggley front clutch kit, trans lab shift kit, and a bushing kit. The alto kit comes with the upgraded end clutch kit included. Every seal, gasket, o ring is included for the transmission AND transfer...

I know my Bc 272 have a blue paint stripe and an orange stripe as well.

Any chance you installed the 5th gear assembly upside down? Or, one of the shifter lugs isn't engaged at the shifter levers inside the case.

I did the exact same thing. My south bend is thinner than a dime on one side, and it would shift fine on the streets. On the strip, launched great, but second and third I was peddling the gas cause it was slipping horribly. Now that the auto is in, time to hit the track again. I feel your...

Nice save for sure. I rarely watch the other lane unless I'm behind

Here's a link to the overhaul manual. It will answer all your questions. There is a bushing inside that shaft. http://atdsm.com/tech.htmlThe manual is clearly marked. Ipt covered that shaft and bushing in a YouTube video. Just search ipt there and he has a ton of information in them.

The long splines go towards the front of the transmission/pump . The short splines are towards the OD clutches. There's also a bushing inside that shaft. If it wears out, that would cause a loss of pressure and od.

When I assembled my 6 bolt bottom end, I snugged the mains down and took a rubber mallet, and tapped the crank forward, then backwards. Torqued the mains, then checked end play.

Having to push the clutch in to start can have this result. Also the heavy pedal clutches will cause this. Since you're going automatic, that takes the clutch out of the equation.

I listed the link to the wiring schematics up above. Just choose the right year and open it up. Shows exactly where and wire colors also.

I checked the wiring schematics for the 1g and it does run to the tcu (temperature probe from the pan) and from the tcu, it runs up to the light. If the temperature gets too high, the light is activated by code, and transmission goes into limp mode.http://atdsm.com/tech.html

Sounds like the disk to me as well. I had a southbend do the same. I went automatic. Clutches are going to be the biggest wear item from here on out. Especially if it's seeing dual duty on the street and track. I really liked my xtd 6 puck. That thing was grippy, and would hold

What gave up? Disk, pressure plate, or flywheel? Have you pulled it out yet?

It's going to be hard to turn once you get a bolt into the flex plate and tc. You are now turning the whole engine. Is there a gap at the back of the transmission and engine? You will really need to fix that thread. If you leave it out, it will cause the joint to flex and eventually...

Sounds good. You will have a tough time turning the tc once you bolt it up. At that point, your tc and crank are now one.