1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th gear face-plated. Thermal Stabilization, Cryogenic Processing, Shot Peen, and surface enhancement. See attached receipts. I broke 4th gear, diff, and input shaft. I sent it back to liberty gears for repair. I just received it back today. See attached receipts with repairs...

Selling the Driveshaftshop 950HP driveshaft taken off the Red Demon. I purchased this last year and am slowly parting out my car. $600 shipped buyer covers pp fees. 920-680-7100 Joshua (text for quickest responce).

awesome!!!!!!!!!

The oem pressure line is 5/16 not 3/8... for 2g's at least.

I agreehere's an informative siteMerge Collector Fabrication 101 - Honda-Tech

Good stuff!!! Thanks guys

That's what i was going to do, however being Saturday most places aren't open. i was hoping there would be someone on here that has purchased on alrready from tial or precision thanks though

I don't see the answer to my question on that page perhaps you could point it out?

Does any one know when you buy a tial v band in/out turbine housing does it come with clamps and the outlet v band flange or are those sold separately? Also does anyone know if you buy the precision turbo comes with the clamps and out flange also or sold separately?

I agree on holding out to find a cheap set on tuners.

For gaskets go to your advance auto and pick up some felpro gaskets. as for the seals that are in the throttle body i get mine from an industrial bearing and seal place here in green bay. make sure you know what size you need though.

The way you have the greddy gasket laid out is fine, you can drill them in that location. As long as the gasket makes a good seal around the center hole on that flange your fine. If your still worried you can use a tough of silicone to seal it.

i'd opt for stainless steel. whenever i purchase mild steel it tends to get crusty after a season.

what all is done to the car? is it stock? before tuning it anymore figure out that O2.

That's good info i didn't know you could do anything with the later 2g ecus

I am fwd and e85 and I want to say i get somewhere in the range of 26-28mpg when i'm on the highway NOT beating on it...it only goes down from there lol

The ecu does not have to be bolted onto the chassis for it to ground properly. There are ground wires directly off the harness that ground the ecu to the chassis. On a side note i dont think that the computer is your issue now if it does the exact same thing as before. Try doing the simple...

I believe that on certain tacks there are settings for 2,4,6 ect. cylinders. sinse we have 2 coil pack for4 cylinders you should have to set the tack to read for a 2 cylinders. Or if the gauge doesnt have that built in i believe autometer sells a little conversion box that does is for DIS cars.

Align the crank so cylinder #1 is at TDC then recheck your cam timing with a ruler

I like the idea of just picking up a new one.

I'v been wondering this for a while. I would be interested in seeing a pic of the jeep rims on your talon SilverNBlack also.

I had the AEM kit a while back and ran 70/30 meth water. As far as a progressive switch it makes it more "streetable" rather than on/off the pump can ramp up as your boost does.

DAMN! I like that ^^

I'd contact them to see if there was a mistake

If you want a 6 bolt swap most of the time it will be more cost effective to purchase a car with it already done. I wouldn't be opposed to building a 7 bolt.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/289588-solid-front-rear-aluminum-motor-mounts-11.htmlOtherwise you local machine shop should be able to machine you some aluminum inserts for a reasonable price.

Damn dude that sucks...I'd keep an eye out on the forums dsmlink, tuners and the list

Perhaps shrouding the slim fans would help

When you say some times it creeps to 20psi what happends if you take the boost controller out? Does it hold constant pressure? (falty wastegate?) How do you have it hooked up? (perhaps backwards) Boost controllers are simple, if you think its junk take it apart and see if anything looks weird. I...

I would run it right off the turbo also. I currently have it located by my cross member in my car (right by where the cat should go, downstream of the turbo). However for my new setup next year i will place it right off the turbo.

1)dsmlink 2)WBo2 3)cheap 16g

I agree you just need to take the studs out of the motor mount bracket on the engine and it should slid right out for you.

I like ngk

I prefer to use cheaper lubricants and change them more frequently...I recomend mobil and I. Use costal gearlube

I would think vacuuming it out along with some household disinfectant would do the trick. As far as killing the mouse that may still live there id opt for a trap of a sort. And to keep the little buggers away I use moth balls when I store my car...a clean storage area is always a good idea. Hope...

FFWD Connection sell the Forward Facing HousingFFWD Connection - Race Injuns That Will Freeze Your Brain

I really don't think that if your a tooth off you'll hit the piston, however even if your a tooth off the engine should still run....can you give a quick rundown on how you went about timing the engine?

Turbo setup going to this guy!!! <<<<<<

PM'd on turbo setup

I was searching the fs on widsm. Here is a one peice driveshaft off of brent rau's drag car. the guy selling it had it on a awd converted spyder.2g lsd rear end and 1 piece drive shaft

pm'd interested

I was able to find .062" silver solder at radio shack. The part number for this solder is 6400026. I used this stuff to check my preloads and endplay and it worked awsome. I just followed the DRE tech article and had consistant readings each time. :thumb: