Have the front 2 sections of driveshaft including good 21 spline yoke and working lobro.Make offer. Pickup only.

You're not a true DSM'er unless you have 10 sets of metric sockets but only (1) 10mm. Funny story.. I bought my 10th over Christmas from Home Dept in a fancy clamshell case and somehow my GF managed to knock it over and all rolled accross my garage. Guess which of the 50 sockets I've yet to...

Other than the boost leak test a few other checks: make sure TPS sensor plug is connected (said you took the TB off), also the Coolant Temp Sensor on the Thermostat housing. ECU will lean out AFRs once engine reaches normal operating temp.. if sensor is bad/not hooked up.. car will run poorly...

Dis you check the scaling of each analog input via LogWorks? Mine was pre-calibrated for Narrowband operation and had the same 7-ish AFR. Believe a bad ground will also cause this issue (very sensitive to ground).

Water pipe is steel... heat wrap absorbs moisture. Not a good combo unless you have a race car that does not see weather. I once wrapped a down pipe and rotted in half over a cpl years. I hit mine with flat black rustoleum and looks perfect.

The DSM community is second to none. Has been amazing to see this platform launch so many successful businesses over the years. Still get a kick taking mine out for a romp from time to time... with antique tags no less :)

my .02.. went down that route years back and was annoyingly loud, smelled up the cabin and always sounded like an exhaust leak. For a daily driver not a good mod (why you see alot of cheap used ones in the classifieds) :dsm:

Thought this local story that made the national news wire a few weeks ago woudl be be good for a Monday Morning laugh LOLSTORYWhat a whack-oAnd unlike his car.. not so bright :banghead:

Disconnecting the MAS triggers the ECU into a "safe" mode which is a very rich low-timing map (e.g. so can at least drive the pile if the MAS dies). With it connected and working, the ECU will set fuel/timing based on a number of sensors including the MAS.Was it running fine prior to...

From my experience, wheras a S-AFC is a nice tool to "fine-tune" your car, I'd not use a your primary means to correct for larger injectors. The ECM-Link / Aftermarket chips are WAY better for that as they do it at the ECU level and not via "trickery" at the MAF airflow signal (which in turn can...

As said above, don't be adding Larger injectors without some means to compensate for them (DSMLink, Aftermarket chip..etc). That being said, if you are a car guy (as we all are on this site) don't kid yourself and get injectors "just big enough" for what you have now unless you have a...

The stock 1G batteries are very small and tend to give up easily when the weather gets cold. I'd put yours on the trikle charger overnight and see if that helps and/or get it tested/replaced if necessary.Hard starts can also be caluse by a leaking fuel pump outlet o-ring, clogged fuel filter...

Hah.. I gotta come outta hiding one of these days :dsm:

Interesting that the story talks of some 47yo roadracing his Jag in the twisties that kills a mother, so now they are chasing kids in Rice? I guess any excuse is a good excuse to spend money on a cause to the politicans :ohdamn:I find it funny that any number of V8 Domestics STOCK are...

The 90 housing is definitely the way to go with a 6-bolt. The sandwich adapters make me a bit uneasy as is one more potential point of catastrophic failure (o-ring blows out/plate backs out) :dsm:

It's the Fuel Pressure regulator solunoid. The ECU cuts vaccume to the FPR by way of the solunoid to bump fuel pressure on cold starts :dsm:

Posting a log would be a good place to start. Are you on the DSMLink Forums? You get membership with purchase of the DSMLink / ECM Link product.

Check that all the sensors are connected (Coolant temp, MAS, O2..etc). May also want to reset the ECU to clear any codes. If the ECU had sensed an earlier MAS problem, your car would go into "limp" mode, making your car run very rich with low timing as to allow you to safely drive home. Reseting...

Nice! Looks like you picked up some horsepower with the MPH numbers :thumb:

Sure are ;)Take it from me, if they are broken/loose, replace them, cheep insurance :dsm:

I'm putting in an upgraded 160A alternator and currently have a rear mounted battery w/cutoff.Would it be ok to run both the OEM Alternator charging lines (light green+red) to the OEM location/80A fuse and a separate fused charging line (dark green) to the cutoff switch? Figure in this...

Kiddies are spending the day with the Grandparents so I should be able to maket it. Gonna be near freezing though. Brrrr.. :dsm:

Note that our cars require hub-centric wheel spacers. Using the "cheappie" non hub-centric spacers will correct offsett, but puts all the load on the wheel studs, not the wheel hub. This will cause any wheel studs to snap :dsm:

I picked up a set of the "heavier" FD2 wheels equipped with 245s and was 5.5lbs lighter a corner than my current aftermarket 17s w 225s.

Um, yea that's pretty low for a 2G. May also want to check for bent valves / cam timing is good.I assume you've checked the turbo itself for damaged fins, freeplay and that it spins freely? :dsm:

To the O/P, I think you need to step back and figure out what your goals are with the car prior to throwing parts on. Maybe start with the DSMTuners FAQ/Upgrade Path ? :dsm:

On early 1Gs both cables had adjustment turnbuckles on the shifter end, on later 1Gs only one had adjustment :dsm:

Doesn't show the colors, but does show the pinouts VFAQI assume you have a non-WB AFR gauge so need to tap into the O2 signal? There is also an O2 test port in the right side of the P/S floorwell. Can just put a spade connector on the AFR input wire and plug it in (e.g. no cutting...

Are you sure your replacement ECU is for a N/T car? ECU P/NsAlso should make sure the pump was installed correctly in the fuel hoodie making sure the new o-ring did not twist up causing a poor seal (e.g. fuel pressure would piss out that connection back into the tank) :dsm:

Dumb question, but is you battery fully charged? If is, with the car in neutral, try to turn the crank pulley manually with a drive socket to make sure it turns freely :dsm:

Car may be in "limp" mode due to a prior MAF issue. Try pulling the (-) cable form the battery for 30sec to reset the ECU and see if that helps.Also check that all hoses from the MAF to the turbo inlet are airtight and that the BOV return line is routed back to the intake :dsm:

I used that flex pipe for my W/G dump tube and it's pretty heavy gauge stuff and will not make very tight bends. You will still need to get couplers/reduces to install and hope the corrugated surface seals.I can't see it being worth it, but can make your own choice :dsm:

The intake manifold is the least reliable place to tap for a W/G needing ~4' of vaccume line and being post all bost leaks.Do yourself a favor and pick up a 1/8"NPT barbed threaded air fitting at any Automotive store and install it at the compressor outlet as your new boost source for the...

Good luck on 11s Linval! Wife is working Sat so don't think it likely for me.

The most exciting car my parents had when I was growing up was an old Chrysler station wagon with a police intercepter engine. Sad. I got into it due to neccesity as had bought a Ford Mustang GT-Turbo in HS and could not afford taking it to the dealor all the time to get repairs.Honestly, I...

Speaking of Taco Bell, Free Taco 10/28 :)

Not to make light (as all save the starter failure has happened to me), but I learned the hard way as you that preventative maintenance to replace things like 17 year old rotting heater/rad hoses and periodically inspecting the TBelt tensioner/pullies/belt is a good idea ;) :dsm:

If you had oil contamination in your cooling system, you need to do a proper flush as even when well drained, there will be residual oil in the cooling passages of the block, heater core, radiator and all the rubber lines :dsm:

Delegate = 59% :)

Could be a tank of bad gas, leaking intake post-MAS or the throttle body or that your ISC motor (in the throttle body) is gummed up.First thing I'd try would be to hose out your throttle body with some throttle body cleaner. If that does not do the trick, remove the ISC motor and make sure...

Yea, been awhile since I'd practiced launching. Ran much better my second run at the same MPH but that last run I bogged pretty, but hauled at the end though.Nice meeting you as well. Sorry your run was cut short. Have some L19s on the way from ExtremePSI so will be boosting again soon...

Got three runs off, nothing spectacular. Last one was apparently too much for my 80K mile stock headgasket/head bolts :(Good luck at MIR!

After a year or so of poor performance/diagnosing the wrong thing(s), I found that the timing belt job I'd outsourced to a "reputable" DSM shop had been bothched.lesson learned = never assumeThe below is a quick and easy way to field test that your timing belt was either not installed...

According to the FSM, the FWD/AWD senders output the same values: Full = 3 Ohm Empty = 110 OhmThe main difference being the orientation and travel of the float due the the difference in mounting positions.<FWD> Point Full 43.1-48.1 mm (1.69-1.89 in) Point Empty 175.5-179.5 mm...

I had a similar thing happen to me when I unknowignly tried to drive the car after my R/R drive axle had snapped inside the pumpkin. the VC would transmit 100% power to the front wheels but would overheat and I'd loose all forward gears. When let cool down, I'd be able to move again, but would...

The Driveshaft Shop sells an upgraded bar for the rear axles in two HP flavours. Magnus Motorsports sells a nice tubular rear subframe that will keep the "fragile" 2G pumpkin in one piece (it ain't cheep though) :dsm:

I can't imagine living with the pain and guilt of being in this situation and now facing charges/lawsuits. Hope all the injured return to full health and my condolances to the family and friends of William RIP :dsm:

Hopefully the rain holds off for both events this year :DMitsu Day is a lock as is dinner/drinks at Olive Garden :dsm:

If refering to #1 in This Diagram on JNZ's website, I believe that is just the bare axle itself. I'd call JNZ (or another reputable OEM Parts store) to verify. The inner/outer covers in that pic are held in place by the pressed-on outer bearing, so if comes with a bearing already, then those...

Good to hear you are getting closer! So any "teaser" pics :) ?In case you didn't know, Rau has been sponsored by Magnus Motorsports for the past few years :dsm: