I've a white 1Ga with light gray interior plastic panels, and I'm looking to replace several mildly damaged interior panels. However, the possible replacements I've come up with are a darker shade of gray. I'm now trying to determine whether the difference is intentional per Mitsubishi...

Was looking for hanger rods at a reasonable price and quantity and came across Mandrel Bending Solutions -- good people? Mandrel Bending Solutions Home PageI noticed they describe the bend curve radius as being to the pipe center-line. Summit Racing doesn't define their bend radius spec...

Thanks for weighing in, dude :)! I recognize the reduced final bend probably helps flow a little, but I also see that just a little more bend could have straightened the exit. Perhaps this is a minority perspective, but I just don't think this appearance best serves the car :(!Great, so I...

Ordered a reducer to make the SR*S adapter replacement. Couldn't find a reasonably priced 2.75" 2 bolt universal flange, but with "porting", think I can make a 2.5" flange work (two spares from installing the cat). Also ordered a Hooker muffler and a couple 3" flanges (SS and mild steel), want...

The downpipe has no effect on the muffler fit (given allowance for cat installation). The SR*S rear simply doesn't accommodate the 1Ga fascia (no tip relief). Yes, the length of the down pipe will effect the overall fitment, but you can see from the above photos what the impact is for me. I...

Jacked the car onto stands, removed my 2" OE catback, trial installed the SR*S catback, and took some photos. Turns out I need a 3-1/4" adapter from the cat to the SR*S, but the supplied adapter flange alignment appears correct. As expected, the exhaust tip is pressing hard against the rear...

Cool :)!I've a VRS downpipe and Magnaflow cat with flanges and would like to try the SR*S as is, but unlike the 2G, I've no rear fascia relief to accept the much larger than OE tip. From reading and viewing, I'm pretty sure the SR*S tip will be against the fascia when properly hung, and so...

My '89-'94 AWD Apexi style SR*S arrived today and I completely misunderstood the 2.75" weld observation. I was thinking there was weld debris inside narrowing the pipe, but what I see is that the intermediate pipe is 2.75" at least as far as the first resonator, but ends in 3" to meet the...

Just a follow up, I returned the transistor module ground to the OE harness a couple weeks ago to reduce the battery load. Today I remeasured the COP primary current and came up with 10.5A with a 13.8 battery voltage (roughly 1/3 less current draw than before). I've little experience with the...

Follow up: Sure enough, he didn't respond.Decided the best solution for the pipe size change is to make my own adapter -- 2.5" to 3". If I need additional length to make the SR-S work (Apexi version), I'll add it to the adapter. Paid for the SR-S this evening and after taking measurements...

Loud? Really? I listened to a few Youtube clips and was thinking it in the mild to moderate range.SRS CatBack Full 3" Exhaust on Eclipse GSX - YouTube SRS Cat Back Exhaust - 1998 Eclipse Spyder / 2g DSM - YouTube Eclipse Sypder - SRS Exhuast FlyBy - YouTubeSounds like I'd probably do some...

Reason I ask is I'm considering getting one for my '90 GSX, but am unclear what the actual pipe size is at the inlet to the short SR-S adapter. I asked the Ebay seller if it would mate properly with my 2.5" flanged cat and he said yes, it would fit the OE pipe. I explained the OE pipe was...

Sounds good on the Supra! I PM'd the Dejon sellers, but no replies.

Thanks, but I was hoping to avoid having to use both a muffler and a resonator. From reading it seems a resonator is a good idea with the UltraFlows, they're not too quiet by themselves.Anybody have any experience with Hooker Aero Chamber? That seems a pretty good sound and not particularly...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/hangout/447448-any-interest-billet-small-16g-compressor-wheel.html#post153095716

Reason I ask is that I want to buy a billet small 16G compressor wheel compatible with the MHI 14b/16G turbine shaft, but thus far, the only vendor I've identified is Snail Turbo (Taiwan) who no longer stocks them. In order to buy from them, it's necessary to purchase a ten piece minimum. Would...

I've listened to a clip of both (saw them in the other muffler thread), and although they both sound great, they also sound a bit more aggressive than I have in mind. I want to tone it down.Here's an Apexi N1 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2VdQ3IzycYo...feature=related Here's a Thermal...

How about Vibrant Vs MagnaFlow Vs FlowMaster Series 50 Delta Flow?Vibrant 1032 - Vibrant Streetpower Performance Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com MagnaFlow 11226 - MagnaFlow Performance Mufflers - Overview - SummitRacing.com Flowmaster 942551 - Flowmaster 50 Series Delta Flow Mufflers -...

I told him I understood he used to sell converted 1G SMICs w/ 2.25" inlet/outlet and asked if I could send mine for conversion, but he responded "we don't do that anymore". From the net I get the impression he stopped making 1G SMICs around 2004 or so (I guess around the time Ebay FMIC's became...

That's what I was thinking, looks like one of the Dejon modified 1G's that he no longer makes -- asked him shortly before starting this thread. The core dimensions would clinch it, but I'd still be interested. Sounds like you could be a Supra SMIC candidate :)!

Hmm -- that's nice :(! Just looked up their Limited Lifetime Warranty and here it isWonder if valve rattle is considered a defect?Have learned that was a common problem with the first generation VTs, but supposedly they've modified the valve since then. Guess that still leaves the risk of...

My exhaust is currently a hybrid of 2.5" dp and cat with OE 2" rear and muffler. I'm trying to decide on a muffler that would be quieter than a Magnflow and ran across the Dynamax VT 17156.Dynomax® Performance Exhaust | Mufflers | Dynomax VT™ MufflerLooks like it could be the perfect...

What are the core dimensions? (PM sent)

Any interest in buying into a billet small 16G compressor? It doesn't increase power, but it does result in earlier spool (aluminum having less inertia than steel). I'm talking to Snail Turbo (Taiwan) and they'd be willing to fabricate ten pieces if we're willing to buy them. Anybody interested?

Be on the lookout for coolant/oil/compression leaks at the head gasket, aluminum heads tend to warp when overheated.

Maybe true, but I'm manually rotating the shaft adjacent the rear differential, not the transfer case (though I've rotated there too :().

Thanks Dude, that's great -- I pasted that paragraph into my notes :)!

The reason they ramp quickly is their relatively low inductance (1.5mH) and plenty of available current given no limiting. From what I see with them in series, our OE 3.9mH coils must ramp very slowly and may need as much as 14 msec to saturate. I would imagine the single COP modules saturate...

My COP modules are manufactured for Chrysler Corporation, not Mitsubishi. The DSM ignition module has no control over how fast the coils ramp, that's a function of the series resistance, the coil primary inductance, and the supplied voltage. Chrysler doesn't have these coil modules wired in...

Close enough, thanks very much :)!

I think the compressor wheel center bore for a 14b or 16G is 6.5mm. Can anyone confirm?

Thanks guys :)!I've a ported 2G manifold and O2 housing, but didn't port the 6cm housing. There's a big difference in opening size between the 2G manifold and turbine housing.Here's an interesting post regarding porting the 070 housing -- he suggests an alternative...

I have a 14b and I'm aware the 7 sq-cm turbine housing will flow more exhaust volume, which is good for improving max power. What I'm wondering is how does it effect initial spool up behavior? I'm thinking that the 6 sq-cm housing, though more restrictive in terms of max flow, might well...

You have to keep in mind that a fuse rating only has to support the average current plus a reasonable margin, not transient peaks. The rated coil peak current is only achieved (if achieved) after the coil current ramps up over the charge time to the point of saturation. In my idle situation...

Waste spark or not? If you're using the OE ECU, then I would expect waste spark and series coils (two coils fire at the same time). If that's the case, you may be quadrupling the current requirement in your estimate.If you're not wiring the coils in series, then remember that they don't all...

I think this is better characterized as home brew than after market -- there's no kit :)! My own setup is with direct battery 12V to the coils and local ground to the transistor packs (no OE harness in between). Yes, it's still waste spark. At my aprox 625rpm idle, I measured ~8ms charge time...

I'm talking about measured battery voltage and the ground I mentioned is at the transistor packs, not the coils. I'm working with Dodge Intrepid 2.7L COP modules, series primaries aprox .8 ohms and 2.9 mH. I've no information regarding the secondary current, but my concerns are exhibited...

Hooked up a scope yesterday. At ~625 rpm idle and ~12V battery, the primary current peaked at 12.5A. The charge time was ~8ms and the coils were not reaching saturation. I would expect 15A with road 14V, and given another 2 to 4 ms perhaps as high as 18A saturated.

It has to be transported from VA.

Crazy thing to me is that from day one it was audible and for the life of the car to date Mitsubishi people have considered the sound normal -- they smile and nod as in "yeah, they do that". I'm a pretty easy driver and only occasionally dip into the turbo and practically never hard, no...

Thanks guys, sounds like the price is fair and that's what I needed to know :)!

Yes, this is something I'm considering, I'm a little weary of the since-new clunk in my OE '90 AWD rear. Is $350 delivered a reasonable price for a four bolt manual transmission LSD rear with everything needed to install?

It may do, but I explicitly specified 130Kmi, not Km. That "i" indicates miles not meters.I determined most of my problem was due to gear oil choice. I was running too thin oil in both transmission (center diff clunk) and transfer case, changing those oils pretty much eliminated their...

Here's hoping dude :)!

If no spark and no code, but fuel injection, my suggestion is a different transistor pack. Maybe a friend has an alternative transistor pack you could try and see how it behaves.

Contact Mitsubishi to get the details of the circuitry, otherwise, accept the professed function of the CAS (no personal experience). Myself, I'm limited to reading the circuit diagrams and observing physical behavior, I've no reason to distrust either.FWIW -- the '90 requires the coil "tach"...

That's the difficulty of bringing an older car out of mothballs, there's no way of knowing what has gone wrong due to not being run. My suggestion is start with the connections and ECU scan results and go from there. Hopefully, it will ultimately turn out to be reasonably repairable :)!

There's no relay between them, but it's always possible the harness connections need cleaning.

What exactly are you hearing? If it's actually more of a squeal, it could just need an alignment.

You say the injectors are delivering fuel (wet plugs), but there's no spark action at all. Could be the power transistor module has failed (part J722T). Might be worthwhile seeing if the ECU is generating any codes.