was driving along up a long smooth hill and car just abruptly shuts off and loses all power. so i pull off, check the fuses and mpi was blown. checked all wires and grounds for fuel pump rewire. pulled ecu and it looked and smelled fine. took off mpi relay to open up and inspect, the bolts were...

this is my first run while logging my aem wideband, i was just trying to get some advice on what value i should be watching on my logs. airflowperrev looks normal at idle and the boost est looked pretty close bt my wideband was a bit off from what my AFRatioESt i cant remmeber if it was leaner...

ya thats probly fuel knock.

instead of them saying (to car ) instead of a description of the wire i bet that people would understand it better that is always the question is about the "to car wire".

87 12g gauge to pump 86 goes to black wire with white strip on harness 85 14 gauge ground 30 10 Gauge to battery with fuse or breaker by battery i use the breaker its beast, thicker connections, i cant go lean if i try !

This is a log of a wot pull i wish i could remember what gears i used i think 3rd based off the road speed and rpms, 4th untill 22 seconds then a down shift to 3rd for the pull. got 5 counts of knock for 2 seconds starting at 29 seconds, i am using the stock ic piping and number 6 ngk's gapped...

its a self resetting breaker and i have had no issues at all... and its resolved because i had issues with my fuel pump and forgot to mention that i guess? oh and i don't keep every different type of fuse in my car sorry. and if your fuse blew you had too much load on it and apperently something...

I bet it would be pretty easy to do a quick look inside the cold side of the turbo may help. good luck

No valid com port. still working on it. nm had wrong drivers installed :ohdamn:

now im wondering if 10 gauge can support 2 pumps?

use a nut buster tool or angle grinder with cut off wheel to cut/ crack the nut off , then put pry bar in there on top side of control arm, have some one push down while you smack the ball joint with a decent size hammer will work i promise! you may even have to disconnect the bottom side of...

found a really nice inline breaker instead of a fuse for fuel pump Rewire!! they make them any where from 20 to 40 amps and they have these thick threaded studs to connect to instead of wire. plus best part is i dont have to buy and 30 amp fuses any more!!! i posted the pic in my other post so...

got it figured out, it clicked for some reason. but instead of useing a 30 amp fuse link i found a 30 amp inline breaker with big thick threaded studs instead of the inline fuse with the wires on each end.

cool just not sure which yellow goes to 86? haha sorry im kinda extra dumb cause of these fumes, if i can remember the yellow is the signal wire?

Thanks for the help! i forgot to mention that the prior owner thought it would be cool to remove the black plug between the pump/sending unit and the car side of the harness and replace it with bullet connectors connecting each wire individually , if the picture up there makes any sense sorry...

I have been studying the vfaqs site about the fuel pump relay mod, but i am not sure about some of his wording. not saying its not correct, i just am not following a certain step very well. but this is what i have so far.this is copied off vfaqsPin -30 Use 10 Gauge wire. Goes to the...

My right front caliper was mostly seized so I took it off to rebuild. The caliper is done but the plug I used to keep the line from dripping leaked over night and it emptied the resivior I refilled it amd did .graity bleed and I'm going to rebleed it today but since it emptied.the resivoir do I...

I really want to use the factory bcs simply because i cant afford a good aftermarket, and i would rather use oem than some cheap setup off ebay. but anyway I am seeing Tables for "Boost" Target and Base Duty Cycle in ECMLINK v3 Full . Does this mean i cannot use my bcs as an adjustable boost...

Make sure you smacked the axles into the trans untill they "pop" in well the one side at least the short shaft is the only one that pops in. Try real fast when you get a chance pop your wheel off loosen the axle nut a bit like 1/4" and smack those front axles into the trans with some wood and a...

i stripped the holes in my oil pan for the return and threaded in some 1/4 20s and they bite pretty well, just make sure to use ultra copper let it get tacky first,and dont over torque them. just snug them up. GOOD LUCK i have those stupid oil pan holes.

seems like its a sensor/wire issue then. i didnt check to see if you have link but if you do check for any codes or CELS or DTCs, you said you have fuel and spark then it seems like maybe something like the CAS, or ecu or something of that nature, maybe maf, something that has to to do with...

have you checked your sensor wires and plugs for loose/broken or wires that have separated from the plug like the Cam/Crank Angle sensor, Coil, Transistor plug wires. Check the mpi fuse ? grounds stuff like that, just throwing some ideas out to help. good luck.

A. of you had spun the motor hard enough by hand to bend valves then you would have had to have had a braker bar on the crank. B. you would have certainly heard any valve to cylinder contact the first time you tried to start the motor. so ya retime it re set the tensioner then try it again. Good...

check brake booster hose, intake mani bolts, Tbody bolts, ya boost leak test would probly be my first test. Good luck:thumb:

did it jump and teeth that you can tel so far and are you going to investigate where it came from? Good luck i hope everything is ok!

Seee i wasnt BSing!!! you can tell but i shouldnt have used afr as my refrence word. sorry good luck though, and i thought high numbers usualy ment lean from hot gasses?

they do the idle test then the 2500 rpm test, so just go in and add or remove some fuel right there, i have absolutley no emissions equipment and i pass emmisons. i do have a cat that i throw on it when i go though. so ya either continue with making the car overall better like you have been IE...

got dry rotted and split at the IM. repalced with fresh hose now all is well.

Did a few boosts and hose for brake booster fell off I put it back on but still got a high hard pedal with little braking power? Is there a way to bleed brake booster vacumm?

I got a SSteel exhaust mani equal lenght made at my local auto illusions and a 3" o2 housing and it made my 3" TBack exhaust that exhits half way back the car sounds really mean!!! and LOUD when your getting on it. when i go under overpasses on the highway it almost startles me form the echo...

So your telling me, adjusting the actuator so that it opens the Waste gate earlier wont do anything? wont it open the gate further since it is Already opening earlier in the waste-gates range or movement. and also lengthening the rod itself via threads? Cause it Fixed MY boost creep really well...

Then Tread it and make it adjustable with a double female threaded union and two nuts on each end to lock it.i bet the Waste gate isn't opening far enough. or find a blown up CX Racing turbo and take the adjustable Actuator off it i have one on mine and being able to tweak the waste-gate is...

There is a specail timing tool set you should get off dsm gravyard or extreme psi i cant remember but taking the timing cover off is easy. if you have solid mounts you wont even need to support the engine or nothing. just the mount, two pulleys, and the cover and thats about it. i can get to my...

The upper piping gets real hot i bet... I would re route that if it was my car or at least wrap it up. but you just got it so you will be working on it alot soon enough haha Good luck!!!

I don't see how it could hurt anything. But im glad Glowryder added that about the Triple torque, the max torque three whole seprate times in the order in the book, I forgot to mention that. But ya I just did my 2nd MLS head gasket in two weeks.... Thanks to some gas pedal happy friends of mine...

All you can do to make sure it seals is.Check the head/block for straightness on at least 6 different directions like parallel, corner to corner etc. Make sure the surface is VERY CLEAN and smooth. once its smooth and clean enough you should be able to drag your fingernails over it (surface of...

I think i know what i was doing wrong. i guess i was being sloppy and over torquing the idler pulley against the belt and over time (2 days) the tension and vibration of the belt against it pushed it back a bit. so this time i set it with an actual torque wrench and letting the auto tensioner do...

I have the shop manual i have the motor mount and cover and pulleys off and stuff and i have a hydraulic that is less than 1 year old off dsm graveyard .. or Xpsi cant remember but in any case its very new. i have the old tensioner pulley still though. I got the "special tool" for the pulley and...

mark the position Of the flapper arm with the WG rod connected to the flapper then disconnect the rod and see if the arm for the flapper was being held tight and that the waste gate is not actually holding the door open a little. but you wont feel it with the rod connected cause of how strong...

Go to harbor freight and but their 2 ton engine hoist and slide the trans under the car run a bolt and strong bracket into the extra hole by the trans mount (on the trans) and pick it up with a chain,it is much less stressfull cause the trans cant fall or get stuck or wedged and other annoying...

Ya you should only have the plug and the stud wire that charges the car. but one time i was dumb (drunk) and decided to spray paint my alternator. it started to not charge as well based off my gauge so i sprayed wd40 in it while the car was running and it made it charge better and stuff. just...

haha oh well there is some more info...

I have the Mitsubishi Shop manual and it says 3.8-4.5mm / .15-.18 inch I used an Allen wrench to check it. So just in-case you know for a fact that it is at a different setting. this is what the Factory Repair manual calls for.

I don't know why i Just thought i was forgetting something. THanks alot!!!

I think that may be the code for rear o2? but i have never had an o2 make the car smoke or run Extremely bad like what your desiption sounds is what happens from loose IC piping check the connection in the fender? just my 2 cents. Good luck!

I just redid my head gasket and everything is good. but i hit my car with a timing light and it is like +15Degress at idle I cant remember how to set base timing on this thing. sorry could someone just give me a quick refresher. i know i have to ground the timing Which i will be Doing Via Link 3...

Not trying to steal post but i figure its a valid question. I looked online but cant find a picture that shows which studs go through (wet) holes. No pun intended.

I have been reading and i am seeing that a .078 restrictor is common for 20g turbos. i just got a braided stainless supply line and i think it killed my turbo the restrictor in it looks really small so i was going to drill it out with about a 2mm drill bit which is pretty much .078. i am coming...

I don't seem to be getting any water in my oil. and i have small leak on my oil return line so i am constantly topping of the oil but its never too high and oil pressure seems to be good although im still using my factory gauge so i dont actualy know what the actual numbers are. Thanks for the...

Still no over heating but still loosing water or smoke again, but since i am still running straight water now since i am pouring some in it every few days and wouldn't be able to afford all this coolant ha ha... i wonder if the water is just evaporating away? since its just water i bet its...