absolutely. ill post back when i find the culprit.

yea i know. you pretty much said everything i was thinking. I was just trying to get other options at a possibility i missed something... Thank you again

Well, thank you so much for the help. I would agree just because it's "new" doesn't mean its perfect, mistake happen. i think i have a good starting point in the right direction of what needs to be done. It's going to be a few days before i can get to tearing it completely apart. Removing the...

Yea i understand what they are there for.. I do not have the balance shafts any more, i do have the BSE kit installed. you say "dowels" should fix the problem... But i already HAVE the dowel pins so in "theory" everything should be lined up... i guess at this point i have to double check that...

Ok, sorry for the bad picture... but if you zoom in close im pretty sure there are alignment dowels.. Im almost positive that they WERE still in the block when i put the front case on..Any other suggestions??I think at this point only thing left to do is loosen the bolts up, see if there...

hmm.... interesting. ill have to check some pictures to see if i have any that show the timing side of the block after i painted it to check and see if there were any dowel pins. i can't recall right now...

You are contradicting yourself, you can't ask how to fix your car in one aspect if it's not up to par mechanically. you are hitting fuel cut and having boost creep issues because you have BOOST LEAKS. Turbo'd cars have to be kept up maintenance wise and free of boost leaks in order to run...

When you lifted the rear of the car could the rear tires spin freely? I was thinking the same as ec17pse. Are the cylinders to the rear calipers frozen, maybe not completely "engaged" but partially and when you let off the pedal the cylinders don't fully retract..? Just my .02

OK, thanks for all the replies, yes i know the seal is beat to sh*t right now, all that was done just recently by me trying to beat it in further with a 1/4" extension thinking maybe it could be pressed in further. I had already planned on replacing the seal so i didn't take much regard for it...

Thank you so much for the fast replies. I will remove it tomorrow and inspect. Get a new seal and replace it and hope that fixes it. Although I think what you suggested will probably work, in my case I don't think this is the crank being worn down from miles. This is a semi fresh rebuild...

So long story short, car has been down for a few months as i suspected valve seals leaking. Got those replaced aNd now thats not my issue. Got the timing belt installed correctly and started it up before i put all the covers back on just to be sure everything was installed properly and no...

Thank you for replying back. I may be interested in doing it remotely in the near future. i want to try and get a better understanding of doing it myself first. maybe you can help fine tune things when the time comes. Thanks any ways.

Sweet man, appreciate it! ill have to mess with this when i get some time. Ill also look into the cable for the gm maf to the harness. You guys have been great help, thanks so much!

thank you so much for the info, ill get that logged as soon as possible and post back.I just want to make sure im understanding correctly, anything that is below 11.0, below meaning 10.5, 9.0 etc... or below the other way meaning 12.0, 13.5, etc....I am using the 3" gm maf AND translator...

When you say i need to lean things out, in what boxes do i adjust? and do i adjust all of them to 11:1?

Thanks for the reply, i have everything up to par as far as maintenance and leaks, i tried adjusting the mafcomp using the suggested values with dsmlink and it idled like dog poop. so i zeroed everything back out. Im sorry for the noob questions but how do i log the wideband, ive looked in the...

Hi there,Here is a log i just pulled. Need some help with fine tuning. Im very new to dsmlink, although i have read all the forums and write ups in ecmlinks website, im still hesitant to touch anything. So please any tips would help.ThanksMods;Stock rebuilt motor; 6 bolt non turbo...

Hey there, looking for someone in the denver area that would be willing to come help me with and maybe show me some tricks with dsmlink. Im new to it and don't want to f*** anything up. I HAVE read all the forums on ECMLINK and have a basic understanding of what to do but i still just don't...

Just moved to Durango and looking to find some people near me. Anyone near the Durango/4 corners area??

+1 on adding fluid and bleeding the clutch system and going from there. If it's low then it seems to have a leak somewhere.Also +1 on could be time to replace clutch OR T.O.B. depending on how many miles are on them.To me it sounds like your T.O.B. went out

also check your crank seal, i've seen those get blown out and leak like a beast. make sure you give the bolts time to dry once the thread lock is on. Shouldn't take but a few dabs to get the bolts to hold. Go over all your seals/gaskets especially the one of the oil pump. an im sure you know...

looking for a good machine shop in the denver metro area to do bottom end work on my 1g. Don't have time to drive to the springs or up north. Any suggestions would be great. Also any place to avoid would be appreciated as well! :thumb:

I'll have to try that before I tear it all apart again. Thanks.

i did ask the guy if he would do the step and make sure it was .608-.610 and he said yes he knew that it "wasn't his first rodeo" but who knows, im gonna pull it back out and check..

yes i bled the clutch atleast 4 different times, and re adjusted it and it still won't go in gear.yea that's the same setup i had but my clutch disk sheared all the rivets after 4k miles. Not launching it once, just normal driving.

it wasn't in gear nor was it stuck in gear when the rivets broke, seem to have full traveling distance on the clutch fork when the clutch is pressed, i've bled the line atleast 4 different times.. still nothing(thanks for the reply)

anyone ever run the XTD stage 4 pressure plate with a stock street disk and have luck?i just installed one in mine and i can't get it to engage in any gear, feels like something is blocking it and it's not disengaging far enough to get in gear. :cry::cry::cry:

did you get yours to engage?

i have it adjusted so there is about an inch of freeplay, should i adjusted it so there is none?

6 puck UN sprung disk sheered the rivets so i bout a stock disk straight from Mitsubishi and installed it with a new TOB. Now it won't engage into any gear. Feels tight, as in i can push hard and it won't go in any gear but it doesn't grind, except in reverse. Had flywheel stepped to .608...

disk installed correctly, everything seems to work just fine, Master cylinder is failry new 11k-ish miles.I'm thinking it's either the step on the flywheel wasn't cut right so it's not able to disengage far enough, or the stock disk doesn't work with the XTD stage 4 pressure plate...:mad:

so update on this again....threw a street disk in straight from mitsubishi and now it wont engage, bled the clutch numerous times, and adjusted it multiple times as well. (it does have an inch of free play)new throw out bearing as wellany ideas?

I never said .030 over was the limit, I said anything bigger then that is iffy, meaning if he's going to be using it as a DD as well then he could run into cooling issues.

I was in your same position a year ago and what I ended up doing was finding a used block with good cylinder walls (meaning not to scored) because you can bored the block out to .030" and still be good. Any further and it gets iffy.. once you have a block find a good machine shop and have them...

Well good luck with that 6 puck disk. I thought mine was good to, until 4k miles later lol

+1 for what he said.And yes a SPRUNG disk is less harsh on the tranny then a UN-sprung disk. But either way if you're not using your car as a track car then the 6 puck disk (sprung or UN-sprung) probably isn't the best option in my opinion. BUT like i stated before i have read and heard of...

+1I agree, a clutch disk is cheaper then a tranny rebuild.

I just ordered a stock disk from mitsubishi, it was like $74 and some change.. not bad

yea i would say it's probably just a fluke, but to be safe and not have to rip my tranny out in another 4k miles i'm gonna stay away from the unsprung 6 puck for a daily driver clutch. I am still gonna keep the pressure plate because i like the pedal stiffness of the Stage 4.When i bought...

i'm not saying this is YOUR issue, but i've seen a few master cylinders be bad. We had a 2g in this past week and threw in a new master cylinder and had the same issue, we adjusted it perfectly drove it around, then the costumer would take it home and be back 2 days later and would have no...

no it's actually an XTD clutch disk. :banghead:i ordered a street disk, and i didn't dump the clutch at all i was driving normal, and just down shifted to 4th to go up a small incline, and that was it.but glad i got it figured out, and thank you all for your help! :hellyeah...

yea definitely! very thankful!! :D:D

ok i just wanted to update you all on what it ended up being.It ended up being the clutch disk and it snapped all the rivets from the center.obvious this clutch is NOT the right one for a DD use, and i knew that when i bought it but i did some research and read that some used it for a DD...

I understand now, and learned my lesson. I will always use a clutch with a disk! :hellyeah:thanks again for all your guys' help!! :thumb::thumb:If anyone else has any other suggestions please text or email me. I would like to hear everyone's opinions.720 366 6728...

yea, could be. and i'm not ruling out any of these scenarios im just trying to make sense of whats going on.. and trust me i understand that things just happen and it could definitely be an odd issue.i just find it strange that i wasn't even driving "hard" just cruising and a simple pop and...

im not sure i understand this "The sleeve on the front of the bellhousing could be supporting the shaft and keeping the clutch disk centered."what do you mean by the sleeve on the bell housing? i could be going brain dead but i can't think of what you're trying to explain... :confused...

exactly! thats why i'm so lost with it. Was doing about 65 in fifth, switching lanes from left to right to get ready for my exit, and it just popped and then wouldn't catch again, there wasn't any tension going into any gear after the pop at all, it seemed normal. soo strange???ok... i...

yea unfortunately i find out the hard way. ha but now i know, no more un-sprung disks!!still though.. any other ideas what could be wrong?smart, but not so smart :ohdamn: lol but until i tear it down, who knows it may not even be the disk.but hopefully it is the disk and not...

yep, all linkage is hooked up correctly, when going through the motions of each gear, the linkage was moving, i can start the car and hear no noises.yes either way it has to be ripped apart, im just trying to see what the issue could be before i tear it apart to have an idea ya dig?i...

touche! but still besides the point, and the speedometer doesn't move.I wanted to see how the 6 puck disk was, and i heard horrible things about the springs breaking on the 6 puck disks thats why i went with the unsprung..but either way i have it and am trying to pin point what the HELL...