Don't quote me on it, but I think if the crank jumps 2, you can get away with a timing job. Anymore, and there is going to be damage. I have not had one jump on me, so I can't speak from experience. I'd start by pulling the timing cover and see where the crank timing mark is in relation to the...
The valves in the head can be bent over far enough to hit the spark plug. Especially if one of them broke off and fell into the cylinder. Can gaurentee that it is timing.
* Edit
Now that he confirmed it...
If you are lucky enough to not have caused severe damage to the pistons/walls of the...
A friend of mine found out that the ones from auto zone don't last more than 1000 miles, haha!
After he replaced the first failed one and a second went out on him, I asked him where he was getting them from. Once he told me, I told him to knock it off.
But anyway, same sound as has been...
I pulled a manual shifter base assembly from a 92 1.8 non turbo because I could not find a turbo dsm in the junkyard. I am about to throw this assembly in the car, but I am wondering if the shifter assembly is the same for the turbo models.
Someone who has CAPS wanna chime in? I would think the...
My car is a FWD and was a manual, swapped it to auto. I used a AWD trans, auto awd tranny mount and that's it. There was a very slight misalignment with the stock manual fwd engine roll stops, which I only needed to rock the engine about an 1/8 of an inch.
* for anyone interested in using a awd...
Hmmm... I would like a more permanent solution rather than a tablet, but it seems like that would be the easiest way to go. I may end up taking out my current stereo in favor of space for the tablet. If I do, I would have to wire in an amp to power the speakers of the car, correct? And I would...
I've searched for a while, but can't find the answer I'm looking for. I am wondering if there are touch screen double din stereos out there that have a Windows OS that DSMLINK can be loaded on to. I've looked into making a carputer, but I'm afraid that is beyond the scope of my capabilities. I'm...
Hmm... I would look at them, but the only internet I can get is on my phone. Maybe if I get a free chance this weekend or next week, I could swing over for a look-see. Pm me if you would like.
You never know, things can and do go wrong. Mine worked fine for over 2 years, then every once in a while the timer wouldn't shut the car off. It would cut the power to the ignition, but as soon as it did, the timer repowered and the countdown began once again. I like having the peace of mind...
I've always had this problem too and it sucks. Having to stick your finger on the top corner of the glass to hold it in the track gets old fast. :pI was just looking at some solutions to this not even a few days ago and found a thread that had some good things to try. Give me a bit to find...
If I remember correctly, there is actually a part number for the spacer you would need. I'll see if I can find that number againhttp://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/289672-resolved-intermediate-shaft-bracket-spacer.html
It might help a little. The label on the bottle claims about 10° drop in a mix of coolant and water. It wouldn't be an answer, just more or less a band-aid. The funny thing is, I can turn the blower on for the heater and my temp will drop to 180 in a matter of 10 minutes, albeit very...
Some things to go over that you might have overlooked.http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/377985-dsm-cooling-system-faq.htmlI am struggling with the same issue. I managed to modify the stock main fain to get it back in front of the radiator, and that seemed to help the...
Don't think they listed anything for a cooler, but you will want one of those too. Fittings that adapt for inlet and outlet for the cooler are m12x1.25. You will want crush washers or some sort of sealing for those fittings if you are going that route. I ended up getting adapter fittings (m12 x...
It will be fine if you baby it, but I wouldnt wait too long to get that fixed. With 3 less studs holding the weight, it puts more stress on the other studs/nuts. Once one of mine broke, it didn't take long for a second to crack and break, and then eventually a third.
I've looked around for a while, but got no solid answers on how to go about this. I'm converting my car from a manual to an automatic in my FWD, but I will be using an AWD auto trans. I know about welding the center diff, but my question regards the mounts I need to use for the auto awd tranny...
Updating this thread to say that my problem was the sensor in the door. Cant upload any pictures to show what it looks like, but I can try to explain how to get to it. The sensor itself is located behind the door latch inside the door, mounted on a bracket. You have to take out this entire...
On stock cams and idle around 750 rpms, it should be around -17 or -18 sometimes point more or less. I would say that if the gauge is reading correctly, assuming it is hooked up right, that you ave a boost leak.
Did you follow the install videos on their site? Some of those seals have to be put in a certain way, otherwise you will tear them and your clutches will burn up. Have an oil cooler for your trans fluid? Would recommend getting one if you dont have one now.
Yes, the O-ring for the CAS can cause a good size leak under load. A bad valve cover gasket can and will make a mess out of things fast. I've replaced the VC gasket once and under-torqued the bolts because I was paranoid of stripping the bolt holes out. Took it for a drive and the intake...
Im using the -08 to -11 spring on a .20 6bolt with 272 cams and its perfect. The spring that came with it from the previous owner was not right for my setup and I was getting compressor surge like a mofo. Out of all of the BOV's I've used, Tial and Turbosmart have got to be the best. Only pain...
If you are going to block it off with a bolt, do not use a long one. Someone correct me if I am wrong, but if you use a longer bolt, you may end up blocking off oil to the head. It would be a good idea to find a bolt that is just as long or even a bit shorter than the original. One of my friends...
Maybe try welding some sort of long handle onto the socket to make a special wrench? I do believe one of my friends made a tool like I described. You just might have to get creative if nothing else is working.
You might need to have the special tool to tighten the pulley that has two small holes in it.
Here is the whole timing process, teardown to installation just for guidence. Step 28 and beyond is the part that pertains to your question.
Timing Belt VFAQ (Timing Belt TSB - ENHANCED)
And I replaced mine this past winter, that seal # was not right for my trans. It was a different size. I ended up using a seal from a spare case I had on hand... except that seal must not have been good either because mine is leaking again this year. :rolleyes:Possibly because mine is a FWD...
Get a used or something. Maybe $10-$15 at the local 'you-pull-it yard' You can try straightening the sealing end for where the hose clamps on, but its just not going to seal up right. A lot of people end up putting a dent in that waterpipe to run a holset turbo and it still functions fine...
I was told that it put out 500hp, but at what RPM's and how much torque and which setup out of his two, I do not know. My dad and I are looking into maybe having a trip up there to check it out. The biggest thing that I see as a downfall is the sheer weight of it, weighing in at 1700 lbs... that...
I was just told of this new kind of motor that has the potential to go a long ways and might, some day, replace gasoline engines. Thoughts, speculations? Thought it was very interesting and innovative. Only reason I heard about it was because of one of my dad's friends who bought a generator...
I know that I deffinately need to isolate the front of my radiator from the rest of the bay. Cutting into the radiator support exposes the front side of the radiator which leads me to believe a lot of cooling problems happen because of that. I really have no clue as to what really happens to...
I'm in the same boat. Havnt had too much of an issue until it started to get 95+ ambient temps. Cruising got as hot as 220 F and had to pull off to let her cool down. Need to start finding a way to get more cooling going on. Going to look into better ducting/shrouding and an all-aluminum radiator.
You still can get it into gear though, correct? I was just going to suggest checking out the cables as well. I've had one tear on me too, and it was not fun trying to get it into any gear. Are you losing any clutch fluid?
Thats a pretty high knock count for cruising.... if your knock sensor isn't bad, then it could be a clue as to what is going on. CAS would be a suspicion since it directly deals with ignition timing and could possibly be causing pre-ignition. They are cheap enough to get from a junkyard or you...
Do you have anything like a logger to monitor the engines performance with? Possibly a bad knock sensor that is telling the ecu to pull timing. There are a lot of possibilities why the performance is lacking really, I'd start with a compression test first, then get a logger of some kind to...
Having a problem with my passenger side auto seatbelt. When the ignition is turned on, the slider travels from the disengaged(open) position as it should, but when it reaches the engaged position(closed), it does not stop and stay as it should. All it does is slide up and down continuously as if...
FWD uses a long axle. No intermediate shaft. There is an OEM spacer that was used in other mitsu cars that needed a spacer for the intermediate shaft, and I'm pretty sure the part # 19Eclipse90 posted is that part.