Yes I actually turned off the car before the fire and before the timing belt broke.

Yes it's hard to say what cause this to happend but I keep going back and forth if I am capable of re building it or not. First problem is a location to do it! If I manage to find a location I can tear it apart and check the engine first and inside the dash.

I rebuilt this eclipse myself and ran fin right before I seen white smoke coming out of the back from the engine and I pulled over and up in flames, so I called 911! By the time they got there everything was destroyed! Unfourtunatly I didn't have a fire extinguisher!! =( The most F~up part was I...

Good luck!! Thats exactly what I did and no change...I tried 2 known good mafs..But I did find I had a vacuum leak at my jpipe and tightened it down, changes my biss oring and adjusted the throttle cable, all my clamps, changed my IACV even though I checked it with a volt meter and tested good...

Hey thanks for the great tip!

So I changed my oring on my biss screw, tb gaskets, intake manifold gasket, and adjusted biss and throttle cable...still same problem.. .. Then I used soapy water in a spray bottle and noticed I have a big leak at my jpipe gasket. I got my jpipe from vrs speed and the right side is a pita to...

Whats your vauum when you cold start it...?And do you have pics of your engine bay currently?And is that your only code that comes up for your check engine light??Just trying to figure out whats wrong with mine as well...:(:banghead::sosad:

I have a 96 GSX eclipse and I did a 6 bolt swap myself with a 2g head..But I also took the exhaust off to upgrade it and took out all my 02 sensors, and put my w/b where my upstream sensor should go. I swapped my maf same prob, did a boost test no luck checked the tps same thing, ordered an...

I believe its a chip in the ecu which is behind the radio.

Do you have any codes that come up???I have a very similar problem and researched on here and found out my p1300 code is either my Ecu or the ignition timing adjustment terminal is grounded and can be checked if you cut it at the Ecu but leave yourself room to re-solder it....if you do have...

did u do a vacuum leak test yet?? i had the same problem.

i would start by doing a vacuum test, use propane and a hose and open the valve and listen 4 a change of noise in ## engine. or you can use starting fluid and spray it on the hose. I would also check ## fuel pressure if u have upgraded fuel inj./pump/regulator..

Your spring is ###### a 14psi rate spring. What kind of WG do you have?

I changed the injector harness's not the ECU pins. And I adjusted the BISS screw as well and to be honest it didnt seem like it was changing the idle or anything at all...:|

Well after all of this the cas will not line up for me to bolt it down still. I have ran out of ideas...The firing order is good the injector harness is good I also tried grounding that one light brown wire to the firewall. Still nothing.....:confused:WTF:cry:

does anyone have the wiring order for the injector harness? I accidentally mixed mine up.:cry::ohdamn:

I think it is weird because before the engine rebuild I dont thing that was ever grounded...

so just make sure I ground the end to the firewall? how would I get it to stay in contact?And I am tuning with an safc.

And how do you ground that goldish plug? it has the piece over it so it looks like the one in the pic.

I was wondering what that was for along with the blue plug bc mine arent plugged in....So i have to make sure its not grounding its self correct?:coy:And if I dont change the other signals the wires on the head go into 4-3-2-1 and standing in front of the engine the wires on coil go in...

yea for 20 bucks more ill tradetiming adjust connector grounded. By this do you mean the ground that goes to the battery for the timing light? Or does any one have a pic? im not to sure of what your talking about.

What is the wire location from head to coil pack? And are you saying that i need to change the wires in the ecu as well? I change the injector harness around correctly. But when I go to give it gas it only spikes up to about 1400rpm and goes bask down....:confused:

I understand there are 2 holes in the head to screw it down which mine does. And yes I understand if it moves a little it can cause the car to run like crap. This is why i check the timing daily. Im trying to figure out why it is not in reach for me to bolt it down. But the timing is dead on. I...

Yes i did i swapped 1 and 2 and 3 and 4 correct?If i didnt know any better i think something is wrong with my injectors.Currently Im trying to find 450cc or trade straight up for my 550cc rc.

I have a safc, where would you look to see the airflow? because I believe mine is not that high at all..? I am new to tuning. But i did mark my crank pulley with liquid white out so i can see it clearly when im setting the timing. I got the wiring diagram from magnus the cas is wired correct but...

I have 2 6 bolt cas as I said earlier and thats how I checked the timing...........

I have tried 2 cas. At this point the timing is dead on although the bolt do not line up to screw it down so i have it zipped tied because it seems no one has a real answer. I tried centering it and its way off timing. and I also tried screwing the biss screw and that don't seem to do anything...

Ok I just recently finished my 2g turbo head and 6 bolt block conversion. I am running in to a problem because it seems in order to set the timing correctly the Cas will not line up. So its either way advanced or way re-tarted. I had a Cas installed but the car would idle but would die randomly...

what kind of wastegate are you using internal or external?

the stock rod bolts are weak anyways. i would just upgrade both and go with arps. Thats what I did when my engine went due to a weak rod bolt.

And both of the post are referring to a 6 bolt bottom end? Sorry I should have mentioned that.

Does anyone have a picture of a frontcase and all the bolts with the torque specs and the bolt placement? It seems like there are 3 different size bolts in the front case bolt kit....:confused:I looked in the haynes manual and researched but I cant seem to find this exact info. in 1 place.

makes sense, and basically hide the sensors and they become n/a? And I should only need the fuel sensor from the looks of it...thank you.

Actually where I live there are no emissions. In Chicago its different. I lived out there up until 5 years ago.;)

huh thats pretty cool. I've never seen that before. Its kinda hard to make out where the bottom line goes to. I can't believe I forgot.:ohdamn:

What all can I take out to remove my evap and Exactly what sensors on the firewall can I safely remove. And other sensors as well. Thank you

I'm not sure if they sell the diaphragm but heres all fuel labs info: Fuelab826-A Morton Court Litchfield Illinois 62056 United [email protected] (217) 324-3737 (217) 324-3717 Fuelab.comToll Free: (800) 541-2345 Operating Hours Monday - Friday 8:00am to...

Which hoses connects to the power steering reservoir? I tried looking at the engine bay shoots but its hard to see exactly where there going. Pictures would be awesome.:thumb:

i would do arp rod bolts if u have the funds and arp main studs too.

im not sure if theres anyway around that. I had to take my turbo off because it seemed impossible to take off the water pipe from the bottom and this is a 7bolt block at the time.

Looks very good!:thumb:Just curious where are you relocating you fuse box?And are you going to be using an external oil cooler? or no..thanks

For all you that have this same problem I ended up taking it to the machine shop and they put a plug in the hole and put the plug back in the block. If anyone is interested in pics just pm me and i will send you some of how they fixed this issue. thank you!:D

213k when my 7 bolt blew up. :p

Ok I about to upgrade my stock clutch and need some input.My profile should be up to date.-I'm eventually trying to get to 400-450awhp. -This is my dd so I would like the pedal to similar to stock. - I have a new slave cylinder and ss complete clutch line as well. -I also have a 6...

Dont forget valve seals. I recommend viton seals there blue.:D

I bought the block from a close friend out of state. there are no bearings currently in the block. just the lower middle hole is bigger than the other one.does anyone know where to get oversized bearings or if i can fill the 2 holes with metal filler? or something safe that will hold? thanks

So I went to install me new STM BSEK and come to find out the rear bearing does not fit I tried all 3 that came with the kit and there all way to small. I bought the block from a good friend and he said he took it to a machine shop it appears the balance shaft area has been machined for some...

I'm in the process of installing my innovate w/b LC-1 and need pics if possible how to wire it in. I do have the book. But I'm a visual learner and NOT that great with electrical.Please post only if you have pics or can explain exactly what to do step by step.Also I do plan on getting a maft...

Ive been looking for transfercase seals and all other parts I can replace in my transfercase but have found nothing. I bought royal purple 75w-90 to replace the fluids because I was reading about all the problems I'd figure I do it all when its out. Any direction would be apprieciated. Thank You

i have a 3in dp thinking of getting a megan o2housing and apexi n1 catback. whats your opinion? and is an aem wb good too?