Even with the trigger disk settings the car wont crank or even get a timing light signal. I'm using a Yoshi fab trigger disk as well. I'm getting no sync errors but i am getting timing errors.Maybe its because its a Yoshi fab trigger disk?
need some help hoping someone can be of some help with my issue. i currently got a 24 teeth trigger disk for my green top cas but it dint come with any calibration settings for the aem V2 been trying all sorts of settings with no luck. hoping one of you guys is using a trigger disk and can help...
Car has been holding up pretty good. i changed back to the Stock Radiator and car has been cooling great. im dying to take it to the Track in get some 1/4 mile times in. just scared the Drivetrain wont Survive. still stock with an unwelded Diff.
check the transistor as well as the coil pack. and also make sure when you put the wires back in you put them in the correct.just saw its a 420A it might not have a transistor but check the coil pack
I run E85 And Love it. but Woulnt Recomend it with anything under 1000. i had FIC 850 and was running out of injectors at 17 PSI on a Garret 50trim with a base FPR of 53 and a walbro 255HP. if you dont want to waste the money on big injectors you can make 350 on pump. oh and ECMlink is a must...
there are allot of manual boost controllers out there that are good but there are also allot that are garbage. stay away from the cheap $20 eBay boost controllers they are all terrible. trust me i know from experience. hall-man is a good boost controller brand also turbo XS is another good one...
yes the injectors will fit. and 400whp are way out of your reach ATM. first thing i would get is a boost gauge because you need to know how much your boosting. and if the air/fuel ratio meter is not a wide band its basically useless. its not going to give you accurate enough information to be...
the check engine light is a very good thing because if its throwing a CEL then that means you could check the code and see what it is. which is most likely your issue
you can just buy a new clutch fork from STM. i also recomend buying the pivot ball. i had the same issue happen to me with the same pressure plate. and the reason why it happened was because the pivot ball was not shimmed and the clutch fork was hitting the bell housing and caused the fork to...
it could be the water pump as stated above but check all the little things first. take off pulley by pulley and if it stops making the noise then you know what it is
i might be lucky as hell but my car jumped timing Twice and survived. both times in the same month. if you know how to do timing i would redo timing and go from there it might still be salvigable
why the hell are these things so expensive all of a sudden. even 500 was high imo. you can get a garret 50trim all day for that price and they are amazing turbos. also my friend just sold an FP evo3 for 280 so they are cheap out there just gatta look.
krazy4 check your MPI Fuse if its a 92 it should have it on the positive battery ternimal there will be 3 fuses there 2 30amp fuses and 1 20amp fuse. the 20amp is the MPI fuse and if that is bad your injectors wont get signal.
yea im not investing any money into a better core atm because what i have is more than enough for my stock motor goals. but i will do what ever i can to help them with out dumping too much money. like the heat box for the filter and something about my tubular. we got a video of it on a 4rth gear...
like everyone said do routine maintenance. do a boost leak test to fix boost leaks and vaccum leaks and do a compression test as-well. by doing all that you will eliminate alot of possible things that could be causing your issues
i would use the HP one. wich will be more than enough for your power goals. a single walbro HP will get you over 400HP. it got me to 483 with 1200 injectors so for your power range its more than enough.
maybe later along the lines but atm whats keeping me from making more power is fuel. and im pushing 483AWHP on a stock 6 bolt motor, head and headgasket so im not planning on going much higher with out building the motor
no. no problem with knock i was just worried they were a little high compared to my friends. but my friend is also my tuner and he educated me a little on IAT's. but 91 stocker im deffinatly trying those things you mentioned. atm i have a pipe with a funnel in the end that goes from my front...
yea did boost leak test and fixed all leaks and logged again but same iats just more consistent. im flowing 49-50 cfm at 28-29psi on the 35r car made 483 awhp stock motor stock head stock Headgasket with arps and acl race bearings. stock Headgasket. im starting to think that its just my...
Im going to give those things a shot. mostly the IM heat barier. already have FIAV delete . IAT sensor is at the TB elbow Facing the Firewall. maybe cutting up the bumber a bit to have the intercooler get more air? only a little bit of the intercooler is covered.Uploaded with ImageShack.us
so i have a 1g Laser with a 35R and a VRSF FMIC My iats while cruising are from 80-90 but on a full 3rd gear pull go up to 115-125 and a 3rd and 4rth gear they go up to 135-145 ive been told that is a little high and i have been trying everything to lower them. what confuses me the most is that...
just recently the car started acting up out of nowhere. it has some missfire under part throttle and idle and when i i do a WOT it breaks up really bad at 5500RPM ive got br8es spark plugs gapped at 17 running 28-29pounds on a gt35r. i have tried bassically everything tried diff plugs, diff...
-1992 laser Awd- my car idles around 1100 to 1500 it varies but it dosent surge or bounce and that is with the bliss screw all the way down. ive changed the Isc with no change. i am running gm maf with a translator and also tried the 2g maf and no change. i tested for boost leaks and it has no...