^^Yeah, odds are that fuel pressure is just way too high. The FMU going bad is definitely something to take into consideration once you get the base fuel pressure set correctly.It would make sense, especially if your plugs are carboning up that quickly. It might also be worth the time to...

Unless you've got some wicked blockage, airflow due to restrictive IC piping would be a longshot. I once left a rag in my IC piping and it took me forever to figure that problem out...but You would notice a huge loss of power while driving, not just a rough idle. But if you want to pop one off...

Have you checked for vacuum leaks? Hear any hissing under the hood? I'd also check your base fuel pressure...should be 45-50psi at idle.

How can you say you have almost everything you need, but have nothing for fuel management? :pAt the LEAST - FMU (Fuel Management Unit, 12:1), Walbro 255lph fuel pump, fuel cut defender/missing link, and a wideband to monitor air/fuel ratio so you don't melt a piston. Don't quote me, but I...

I think it's more common for the buttons on the steering wheel to stop working. Mine got very finicky, and eventually stopped working altogether. I'd try what IronSevenFold suggested :)

I still can't view it :(. Says it hasn't been made available.

Video is set to private :). Going to check out your pictures and then type some stuff up...sit tight!The hissing noise is definitely one you'll want to pinpoint. Vacuum/boost leaks can really cause some odd problems. Quickest way to check is with a can of carb cleaner - With the car running...

Sounds more like the ECU is going into "limp mode" if it's actually limiting revs. Could be for a variety of reasons, but will give you something to start searching. No check engine light or anything? Usually it's accompanied by one.Also, auto or 5-speed?

Before driving that car any further I would figure out exactly what you have for engine management in there. If it's set to 11psi you will want to cross your fingers that it has MegaSquirt, or some kind of actual fuel management. The cheaper/easier method of fuel management on the 420a is an FMU...

You've been a great help, thank you!I've discovered another clusterf***- The interior harness has a wire that completely fried allllll the way from the fuse box to (I think) the radio harness. It is red with a black stripe, like many others in this harness haha. But I'm pretty sure it was just...

Thank you!This one is on the interior, under the passenger side dash. 2/3 connectors are the same, but the big white one is slightly longer. It looks like there are the same exact wires, so I could cut and solder in the connector from the 90 harness I have. Unless I'm missing something?

Very helpful, thanks a lot!I'm sure this info is in what you linked to, but I'm in the middle of putting my dash back in and just seeing if anyone can save me some time. I've got these 2 sensors hanging out by the coil pack/power transistor:This has a single black wire with a white stripe. I...

Ah yeah, I believe you mentioned that in my other thread. Thanks! I'll snag the correct one off of ebay.Stay tuned for more "what connector is this" posts! Slowly chipping away.

Perfect, thanks. I'm just going to keep the questions rollin'...This sensor appears to be different from 90 to 92...what might this be?Here are the connectors. 92 on the left, 90 on the right-

Thanks for the help! I don't see a 2 wire sensor like that...but I am wondering what this single pin thing is with the crusty/cracked connector. It attaches to the throttle position sensor -The 92 harness I'm swapping in doesn't have a spot for it in the TPS connector, but there is a single...

I'm working on figuring out a wiring mess on a 92 TSi AWD. From what I can tell, there's a bunch of 90 stuff swapped in here - ECU, Engine Harness, coil pack, etc. The driver chip in my ECU fried so I figured it'd be smart to replace the ISC with a newer one. However, the install was not exactly...

I think I have a set of block off plates from my old 420a in my toolbox, I can check when I'm at the garage tonight.I forget what needs to be done with the electricals to prevent a CEL...I'll leave that searching up to you. But another thing you might want to check on your car is for the...

5 in a year?! I think after the 3rd you should start doing a little research :pIt's a pretty simple process, but there isn't much room for error. What exactly is happening when they fail? Leaks, oil burning, mixing with coolant? Have you replaced all of the timing components (belt, hydraulic...

Dang it, I swear I had an o-ring set from my old wrx but I can't find it! I just ordered a set for $15, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!

Went to install the stock injectors, and picked up a set of new O-rings, which were just for the top of the injector going into the fuel rail. The lower isolators have quite a gap between the injector and the head...so much that the injector tip can wiggle around. There's no way it's sealing...

A simple turbo'd 420a is faster than a stock 4g63. It's cheap, easy, and pretty darn reliable if you don't get too greedy. Calling the platform "garbage" is a little ignorant...An evo swap is far more work, and more expensive. A turbo kit you can piece together as you have money, which is a...

No offense at all, but I was able to turbo a 420a with quality new/used parts for mayyybe $1200 when all was said and done. If you factor in the price of a built motor then yeah, that'll put you closer to $3k.A 4g63 swap is way more involved than a turbo kit, which is why not many take that...

You have heaps of research to do, my friend! I would suggest starting here to learn all of the stuff you'd need for a turbo kit - http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-build-a-420a-stage-2-turbo-kit-for-under-1000.181134/Quite honestly, spending all that money to build a forged motor and NOT...

I had an ebay header/exhaust on my 420a for about a year before going turbo. Even heat wrapped the header. It worked just fine...no cracking at all.Of course results vary, but when you can buy 2-3 cheap headers for the price of 1 "good" one, I prefer to take my chances.Something to consider...

As of right now I have the entire dash ripped out, as well as the ECU/engine harness. I'm waiting on a replacement harness to get here and a replacement ECU. Both of these are from 92 TSi's.Also purchased stock 1g injectors and the appropriate coil pack from a 92.11/15/14 Installed stock 1g...

I titled it this because I haven't come across one modification on this car that's been done correctly. I've got myself a 92 TSi AWD with *low miles* according to what I can only assume is not the factory cluster, which shows 65k miles. The thing has been severely mistreated and I'm determined...

I do in fact! PM sent.

Thanks Brian, that's very helpful!As for the coil, I went ahead and ordered a used replacement from a 1gb since I'll be swapping in the appropriate harness/ecu- http://www.ebay.com/itm/151456883706?item=151456883706&viewitem=&vxp=mtrAre there any other sensors or parts I'll need to be...

A little update - I ripped out the dash and engine harness, here are a few pictures of that-http://s52.photobucket.com/user/tec_41/library/1g TSi AWD/Engine Harness and ElectricalFeel free to tell me what you guys see...There's also a picture of the coil which appears to have a different...

Yessir! I had 3 people show interest right off the bat. Let one guy come out and grossly lowball me...I know my asking price was high and I expected to be talked down, but damn! I'm not going to deal with any more Craigslist idiots. I'll save the car myself.Brian - It's very sad seeing how...

Always some fun DSM stories! I had a buddy who bought a 95 TSi AWD from Minnesota, about 5 hours away. It died half an hour down the road...I have a guy coming to look at it tonight, he says he used to work at Boostin' Performance. If I get a decent offer on it I'm going to sell, but if not...

That may be what I needed to hear...Thanks for the inspiration, tmoney. If I end up keeping it I'll be sure to start a build thread! I just went through a much smaller project with an 03 Mustang, so I definitely don't mind doing this type of thing...

Looking for a full harness (preferably unmolested) for a 92 TSi AWD. If you have anything let me now! Thanks.

I definitely appreciate all of the input and advice so far. After getting a chance to get under the car last night, I'm not going to lie...I'm a little scared. There's a lot of oil, I can't even pinpoint the leaks. It was pooled on top of the trans, and there was wayyyy too much oil around the...

Awesome, thanks for the advice so far! I'll see what I can knock out tonight and will report back. I'll try to source some stock injectors, too.Another thing I noticed was high idle - Like, 1k-1500 rpm when it isn't wanting to die. I read one thing to check is the coolant lines going to the...

First off, if this should be moved to the tech section I apologize. This is a long story, so if you don't want to read it all, I'll include a summary at the end. The point of this thread will be for me to pick the heck out of your brains :)My background: My very first "fun" car was a 95 Talon...

And on the stock ECU, too! The things ready for a turbo, though...

Yeah...there's a boost gauge which will suggest otherwise ROFL

Just for everyone's info, this is my old car. To help others troubleshoot since I am completely done with this car...The FPR is run in pair with the FMU, that's not a problem. The FPR is set at a static pressure of 50-55psi I believe, and the 12:1 FMU is hooked up properly. The vacuum line is...

^^What he said. Cast manifold + Block off plate is the cheapest and easiest solution. Block off plates can be just some thick sheet metal with holes in it if you want.

I'd take a peek at the injector O-rings, and the FPR as well. Since you have a 95, the FPR will be on the passenger side of the fuel rail. I had a similar problem once- Rough idle, hard to start, smell of gas, but there were no visible leaks. I ended up replacing the fuel rail/regulator and all...

With an SFMU you don't need anything else, the SAFC wouldn't be needed. As far as I know, you can adjust the base fuel pressure with it, so it's essentially an AFPR and an FMU in 1 unit. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...

Coolbeans. I'll probably fix the stripped bolt and slather some exhaust sealant on there until I can find a better DP.

Hmmm I do have a small exhaust leak at the turbo flange...one of the bolts stripped (its on my to do list). Guess ill make that a priority!Is it possible the leak could be causing the o2 sensor to read incorrectly, thus causing the Ecu to tell the car to run lean?

I have the 95 fuel system, so there is no ML or FCD.I can do a search, but do any of you guys know what voltage I should get from the IAT/CLT sensors?Thanks for the help so far! I'll keep troubleshooting until it snows :P

I'll go over the LC-1 Wiring tomorrow. It looks okay after a quick visual inspection, and it shares a ground with all of my other gauges which are working well.Should I maybe be looking at something else? Like map sensor, or IAT, or what have you? I switched back to stock injectors today...

Thanks for the confirmation. 250cc is small, yes, but I have to retain the stock ECU for now. But if anything I thought I'd run pig rich with bigger injectors and the stock ECU :confused:I'm going to recalibrate my LC-1, I figured it'd be a good idea to do that after a rebuild.Update: Okay...

But of course!http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/420a-engine-management/374659-megasquirt-links-new.html

Unlikely. In all honesty you won't gain a whole lot by bolting on stuff to a 420a. The real potential is in the ECU- You'd need something like Megasquirt to tune the car and unlock the potential of those mods. I actually think it'd be a waste to get all of those things and keep the stock ECU.

I've run into an issue after my rebuild here...Current setup:Eagle Rods 8.8:1 JE Pistons Crower Stage 2 NA Cams, springs, and ti retainers UDP New everything elseThe issue I'm having is that the car runs lean under normal cruising speeds (2000-3500rpm). My LC-1 Reads 15-18afr while cruising...