This past spring my balance shaft belt snappped and caused the timing belt to jump . All my valves got bent in the process. My pistons looked very similar to yours. I ended up taking a dremel and cleaned up each piston so that when the pistons got hot the thinner metal wouldnt heat up and chunk...
No one mentioned anything about the bolt you must put back into the case where the balance shaft tensioner once was. It will leak oil without it in place.
You'll know more once you drop the transmission like you said. I'd also check that clutch disk. I've had a similar situation where the clutch was grabbing right off the floor. The clutch disk was completely gone on the flywheel side. Not likely the case since you pulled the fork boot and peeked...
I just built an 3" exhaust from my Megan downpipe back. I used a resonator and a vibrant street power muffler. It's reasonably quiet at idle and awesome at wot! Check out the vibrant street power. I know you already have a muffler but it's worth a look considering their straight through . Good luck
I'm working on two 1gbs. One is a fwd that is a daily driver street car. Not sure if I'm going to swap my genuine evo 16g with 3000 miles out for the fp 68hta. Either way the awd is getting a turbo upgrade :)
Also I don't think there is a circlip on the driver side axle shaft so it should just slide out. All you have to take off is the the 2 bolts holding the axle to the block (if awd or with fwd half shaft mod) and the 2 strut to knuckle bolts and you have enough room.
I'm running mine at .028 also. When's the last time you changed your plug wires? I experienced a similar condition and I swapped plug wires and it went away.
Take the vaccum line off the waste gate. Take a blowgun, Set the regulator on the compressor to 15 psi. That should be sufficient to make the watergate open.
All of these are good ideas that sometimes work. Many times they don't and we start throwing wrenches. You can also get a good torx bit socket. Such as Snapon / bluepoint. Heat the bolt with a torch and drive that socket in there. Tighten and loosen the bolt as soon as you feel the bolt get...
Also when removing the powersteering pump it is a good idea to grind a U in the powersteering bracket directly in front of that exhaust stud. Helps for future assembly/dissassembly. I know people on here know what i mean. search search search.goodluck
I had the same problem last fall where as i had spark fuel timing. Well i thought i had fuel. I cracked my fuel line at the fuel filter and fuel was spraying as i cranked the car. I started it with starting fluid....so i knew it was a fuel problem. Got her running on starting fluid for a bit...
I'd Say if you have another car,park this one and take the time to learn and fix it. If you plan on having this car for awhile its probably your best bet. Shops will rape you. And once you do it once you'll be able to do it again. But I mean do what you want. It will save you a lot of money...
Your starting to pay attention to your car! Every dsm sounds like a bag of marbles. Dont fool yourself to believe it. Muahaha.you're..we're all on the yellow brick road.
The boost control solenoid(BCS). Is in fact called the Wastegate Solenoid. Just thought I'd clarify considering if your looking in the Haynes repair manual.
Probe terminals 6 and 8 of the Intake air temperature sensor(IAT). When the car is cold it should read:6 ohms.
As temperatures rise the resistance is lower.
To check battery voltage to the airflow meter probe terminal 3. It should read 12 volts. Hope this helps man