To take the crank sprocket bolt off use a SOCKET. Do not just stick the breaker bar into the bolt. To add, position the breaker bar so that it lays on the control arm or use a jack stand to support the breaker bar and crank the engine for about a second. Remember to take out the fuse that...
Punishment Racing's FMIC is pretty affordable. Why do you need a FMIC ASAP? You can run the stock side mount with the small 16G until the VRSF comes back in stock. I was actually thinking of getting the Punishment Racing kit but it looked to me that the VRSF kit had a better design on the end tanks.
Lowering springs are obviously stiffer than OE springs. When you cut OE springs to lower your car, the spring rate (stiffness) will be same but will be shorter and will have a higher chance of bottoming out.
You wouldn't boost at all..BTW, to answer your question about adjusting the WGA, there's no way you can do it unless you modify it with some welding skills on a 16G.
Here you go. YouTube - Boost Leak Testing 201: Using the tool.Just to add a little bit, use some bubble solution (dishwasher soap with water) and spray anything that is pressurized. Leaks will actually be visible this way.
Well since his WGA went out, he must've been boosting like crazy which also means that his ECU was probably "trying" to compensate by injecting more fuel which would explain the bad gas mileage. Even with all that fuel being injected, he was probably still running way too lean.
I find it hilarious that the OP for this thread get's flamed for making a thread just like this one but it's fine when this OP does it..frikkin hilarious :rolleyes:
You're talking about the port that goes to the intake pipe, correct? Air should come through the top port, into the intake pipe when doing the BLT. When there's no power going to the BCS, it's open, bleeding the air so that it doesn't actuate the wastegate actuator.
Instead of telling you specifically what parts to get, take a look at this first. Almost everyone on this site does/did and guides them to their "dream DSM." If you have further questions, and I'm sure you already know this, search before you make a new thread.
A lot of those questions could be answered by searching this site. You also need to have a specific goal for your car. Is it going to be drag? auto-x? street? Also included in your goal should be how much power you plan on making.The main difference between a 6 bolt and 7 bolt is the amount of...
Seriously...? Underglow....? Please tell me you bought the car like that and plan on removing them. Anyway, I've always liked Evo VIII rims on a DSM. You could probably find them at that price on evolutionm.net
If you're talking about the upper door mouldings, you're sort of out of luck. They're discontinued, at least, the driver's side is. You might still be able to find them but it'll be real difficult. As for the rest of the trim, try JNZtuning.
Well just to let you know, this wasn't the right place to post this then. Should've been in the Hangout section. I was thinking that you had a problem with the exhaust system or something. But in any case, it sounds good.
You CAN strip out the threads when the engine is hot. Reason being, as any metal warms up, it expands. When the head is hot (expanded) the threads surrounding the spark plug is constricting it. As you loosen the spark plug, you run the risk of removing metal from the head with the spark plug.
Our oil pans don't come with gaskets. Mitsubishi uses sealant only. For the OP, I use Permatex: The Right Stuff. Doesn't leak at all when applied correctly.
Did you take off your lower timing belt cover to check for oil? If it's on your BS belt, I'd suspect it's one or more of your seals ie. crankshaft, oil pump, and/or balance shaft. Try taking a picture of it.
Like I said, to each their own. I'm not going to keep debating over a forum as it will just be a neverending cycle eventually ending in some type of "e-hostility" towards one another. Just wanted to get my one opinion out there.
Yes, temperature does indeed decrease the viscosity of oil but, that is why the FSM made that chart I posted. 10W-30 is good for 120+ degree weather. I know you're talking about the engine temperature though. I'm sure you already know this but when the engine is hot, the oil will have the...
How does the amount of boost you run determine the WEIGHT of the oil you're supposed to use? I agree that the quality of the oil matters but why change the weight of the the oil from what the FSM says?Again, I'm aware that the viscosity the FSM recommends is for a stock 4G63. If you've...
I don't see why people keep choosing to deviate from the FSM. If Mitsubishi tells me that 10W-30 is the viscosity my engine needs, I'll use 10W-30. I don't understand the poeple that use thicker oils or thinners oils when the FSM clearly states thats 10W-30 is all you need regardless of how high...
I'm active duty in the Air Force and, honestly, what dsmking said is true. Any guard unit is looked down upon. Reason being is because for the guard, being in the military "is not their real job." I've been deployed with them and it makes me sick when I hear them say that.But, I know you...
Now I'm a little confused. Is this supposed to be a prequel or sequel because I could've sworn Han was already dead..Looks decent but have a feeling it's going to disappoint after actually watching it.
Honestly I don't just stick to one brand of oil. Oil is oil to me as long as it's synthetic since my car isn't a full blown race car. As far as what viscosity to use, let's see what Mitsubishi says....
Just ignore the stock gauge? Or get a aftermarket water temperature gauge. You could also "calibrate" it by removing the gauge cluster. Just remove the cluster and remove the needle for the temperature and put it where you want to when the engine is up to temperature.I'd just get an...
Wow what's with the anger..It's only the internet buddy. And FYI, yes, I've heard of that saying of do it right the first time. The Air Force pretty much drills it in our head if you're in maintenance. So you're saying any flared fitting is only meant to be used once? What about AN fittings? If...
Please explain how a SS line would cure his problem. A line is a line and will work just fine as long as it doesn't leak. As long as the OP didn't damage the original line to the point where it leaks, he should be just fine.
It COULD be your stock oil cooler but the odds of that are very slim. Especially if you messed around with your headgasket and your oil and coolant wasn't mixing before. It's most likely your headgasket not sealing correctly. What kind of gasket did you get? Composite? MLS?