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All parts are brand new, were bought for 97gsx, less the intake manifold
The price includes shipping in CONUS on everything except the $10 items. Pics upon request.
Mitsu auto pilot bushing for 7bolt-10
mitsu converter bolts- 10
Evo3/rvr intake manifold, ported to 60mm, powder coated black - 150
Any piece of foreign object, wether a gear tooth, pin from a phantom grip, or broken shifter bits, will roll around inside that main ring gear (it's the oil pump in this case) and blow out wherever the bit decides to Lodge. It may just need jb weld, it may need a complete rebuild...
And I would be willing to bet you will see less lag with the t3 housing vs the .55. like the early precision dsm flanged housings, the bullseye isn't great either. Yes it's a "bolt on" piece, but it sacrifices a lot everywhere to "bolt on".
O.p. is your housing machined for an internal gate...
Man, it is smaller, but it is still junk. Guys are spooling faster on open t3 manifolds with the factory 16cm housing. Faster yet with a totally divided setup.
And when those housing really start being leaned on, expect a turbine failure.
The only time any of us are ever in that portion of the map is when we are off throttle, decelerating from higher rpm.
Watch the cursor when you rev on it, and yank foot off gas. On link, it runs to the very top right ish (rpm dependent) and rides it to the left, on the very top high vacuum...
The g4cs caps don't have any tied together, they are individual, unlike the 2 pairs and a single a 6 bolt has.
But with a girdle, should be good on rigidity.
As long as the caps "register" in the block fine, it "should" be ok with a line bore.
All of us had to start at one time.
O.p. if you have basic hand tools a torque wrench, a mitsu timing tool, a Haynes or chimton manual, and desire to learn, you can accomplish anything.
Save yourself almost a thousand dollars and gain the experience for next time.
Like anything, it is a simple...
So that is a question that has many variables to answer.
I think what the killer was, is that those uhauls weigh close to 600lbs or more. If not 1000, (and it wasn't one of those tiny little pup aero trailers either)
Now if the whole kit n caboodle weighed 1000 lbs with everything in it? I bet...
In the past, reichen had issues with his 1g towing a trailer. Killed is converter/trans.
Granted it was a small tiny uhaul, but heavy none the less. I hope you ate planning something no larger and heavier than absolutely necessary.
In the 50's there was a pop-up camper, that bolted...
I don't have an htp, but I do have an Everlast, I also venture to day it is better than any Miller i have used as well. I don't think anyone should ever overlook offbrand machines when it comes to purchasing a quality piece of equipment.
It appears to be an aftermarket boost control solenoid.
I meant to say biss before, autocorrect got the best of me.
Also, you have to make sure you have zero air leaks between the maf and intake valve.
A boost leak test, along with properly terminating boost piping ends, and who knows what...
Well, judging by the fact the car came with 205 ho from the factory... I think you are fine as it sits.
Personally, I would upgrade intercooler, do what I could with the piping, and turn up the T25.. (or even drop in a t28, super stealth mode) and shoot for 300 useable horsepower.
Man, it's been so long since I have jacked with a 90. bit no, not always.
Trace that wire back into the car. Unless you have another page to that electrical diagram with a pin location for the the correct connector inside the car. Then see what it gets it's 12v from.
I would lean towards replacing capacitors again. Just cuz they don't leak, doesn't mean they aren't bad.
Or mpi relay.
Also, how big is your fuel pump wired? Loose connection? Faulty relay? Corroded terminals?
I found going to a smaller diamerter filler rod made welds narrower. Like using mig wire vs 1/16 filler rod.
Also 1/16 tungsten helps with control as well, bit if the point is ground similarly to the 3/32, then there won't be as much difference. (From what I could tell)
Well then, lead with that next time.
It clunking into gear is normal. Meaning it shifts fine.
If you have a blown center diff, or an axle is not splined in place properly, the torque will then exit at the disconnect drive point.
If you just had the trans out, you may not have inserted the...