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Blue wire is the ground from the wb. Yellow is on pin 15 for EGR.
Looks like some other items are grounded are on the same thing, which I’ve read is a no-no...
Should I move the ground to the next bolt over as my chassis ground or should I splice it into the ECU chassis ground ?
I’m not exactly following the second part of the wb ground, so if you could clarify I would appreciate! Are you saying that you have the ground connected via the ECU ground (101/106) then subsequently grounded to the battery ?
Should I expect the numbers to read exactly the same in a log on link as the gauge ? I’ve been taking video holding the computer next to the gauge then reviewing the video and that is how I’m investigating that they are off.
Moving my global down definately helped my fuel trim, it’s closer to 4%. Working on deadlines/STFT now. Should I move my global down further to get closer on my LTFT Lo?
I noticed while driving that Link isn’t picking up my AFR’s on my Innovate MTX-l on the richer side of the spectrum, double...
Updated log with TPS adjusted, I manually adjusted it and set it at .63 volts then adjusted my throttle cable which read 84% on the stream, while adjusting it did not feel like I could move the bracket anymore to get closer to 100%.
I think the car is on 13 PSI right now, I am trying to take...
Not sure how the requirements compare to CO, but I failed for HC/NOX.
I ran it down to half a tank, threw in 2-3 bottles of Red HEET and that brought me within tolerances.
However if you have a bad cat, this may not overcome that ...
WB02 is set on the EGR temp pin into the ECU.
Can you elaborate on how they do not make sense ?
WB doesn't kick on until 30 secs into this log, that is how it is set up in my settings. Happened to start the log before firing the car.
Ill continue to adjust the TPS to get it 0% at idle.
1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks?
Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks?
2). Verified mechanical timing?
3). Verified base timing?
4). Ignition system
COP or Stock Coil: Stock
Wire brand and Age: NGK - 1 month
Spark Plug brand, type and Gap...
For the BLT, please do not spend $50 on one, they are very simple to make ..
Go to Home Depot, in the plumbing section
In my case, I needed a 2" hose coupler and a 2" cap, the size you need will correspond to your turbo inlet. ~$5
Then go to O'Reilleys, or any auto parts store and get a...
Boost leak test
Checked ignition timing and base timing
Getting ready to install ECM Link and start tuning.
Car was recently hitting fuel cut at 16 PSI and I had no idea how to tune within TunerPro so I picked up ECM Link V3 from Ricky @RixRacing in hopes of...
Picked up the car early January and have been going through minor tune ups/maintenance. I have been busy ...
Had to get "familiar" with Tunerpro logging capabilities to atleast keep an eye on what is going on with the car, but now have finally decided to make the jump to ECM Link.
I am new to the game, but ask some old timers...some will pop up and they go quick. They ceased production some time ago. NTK (sub of NGK for there sensor division) makes one, but I haven't found stock of it. Wondering if we did a group buy if they would produce...
There are some aftermarket...
Reading that posting again, it says its an aftermarket sensor, I was curious if you were under the impression that it was the OEM MD131681 , none the less I bought the ebay one, I don't think I need one right now but I am stocking up to avoid these being discontinued as well..
I’m hitting fuel cut right at 16 PSI, car runs great IMO and according to log values.. with my set up, I should be able to max at 20, however I really just want to hit a 17 PSI target. Are you interested in taking a trip down memory lane and looking at a log ?
Curious if anyone tunes with TunerPro RT on here, it is not talked about much, I am highly considering getting ECMLink however it is hard to make the switch with already having logging/Moates Ostrich already set up... I am new to tuning and the program, I have created a few logs and the PO has...
Not sure what happened... WG pressure was always 8 PSI.
Installed new o rings, spring, and steel ball. Unit is adjusting normally now. Thinking something was jammed then once taken apart it fixed it.
Thanks for all the replies!
For the record, the spring was the “heavier” spring. Thanks...
lol on the clicker pens.
Hallman emailed me back today and said I could possibly have the lighter spring... they sent me new orings/spring no questions asked, super awesome. Well know by the end of the week what’s going on.
The Hallman is so simple, it’s hard to believe anything is amiss. It doesn’t do anything until a few turns as you can tell when the actual adjustment starts, shaking it a lil while turning it tells you when the spring starts to become compressed and initiating adjustment.... With that being...
It is installed properly.
I was referencing the other boost controller as functioning properly in regards to the system already being in good health prior to swapping out the boost controller. They are actually two different style of BC so I understand the “turn” count would no way be the...
I just picked up a Hallman Pro BC to replace my eBay one that works perfect... I put it on last night and went to dial in the boost, it took about 4 full turns before I was able to get past the 6 PSI mark, another couple turns I make it to 8 PSI. Another couple turns, I make it to 10...
Basically brand new set of wires, installed and went for a drive, just so happens my dipstick blew out and shot some oil on them.. classic I know right ? Minor oil stains... These are the "long" set, or stock 1G set, fit both 1G/2G. $30 Shipped
1G fog lamps - Make me an offer, looks like one...
I just did the H4 Autpal 165mm conversion, you can get them on ebay for like $50 a set. Then purchased some Phillips Racing Vision H4 bulbs, they are an upgrade from stock for sure, but likely depends what you are going for. Never going to get the same output as LED/HID..