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In the end, the right thing to do is a full rebuild. The thought of anyone doing a single piston and doing all of that work to have low compression or failure from something else is a choice I wouldn’t make.
Just in general. I’ve almost taken chances on big resale value cars because I think most people don’t go into depth with maintaining cooling systems. Specifically maintaining pressure.We’ve all done it for sure.
I think the chassis needs to be top notch. Gutted, caged and probably lexan but I want it to be streetable. I don’t want a car I can’t just drive. It will pass VA inspection legitimately (if it looks like a catalytic converter, it is). I don’t need the law enforcement hassle.Anyways, the...
I have been here since 2006. That’s crazy.The Shootout needs some revamping. Covid sucks. Idiots suck. That’s one reason they wanted to bring in more platforms to the event. So it can actually survive.
Evo guys buying carbon fiber trunk, hood and wheels. Puts a fpred on it and wants a tune. Gets to the dyno all timing belt slapping 😂Another one came to I believe the same dyno day after buying this already built Evo. It started knocking on the dyno. He put Seafoam in it two whole weeks...
I couldn’t tell you specifically why they are different but I’ve seen a lot of people use it and it leaks. It could be because of the crankcase pressure issues people don’t tend to but I haven’t use much of anything else besides Ultragrey in my 7 years in the auto field. Currently still at the...
Any and all stop leaks just create more issues. It’s made for idiots who can’t repair things correctly. Take the pan off. Clean it thoroughly. 3m has little plastic discs with fingers on them that eat gaskets up with out abrasion or just use a wire wheel. Only because it is steel. Use grey RTV...
When using RTV the “tightness” isn’t a factor in sealing the surface. It should be cleaned, set and torqued. It shouldn’t leak if the surfaces are true. I can see oil in between the rtv and the pan in the picture and that is a picturesque photo of a leaking/seaping oil pan to me.
I really need to make my own thread about part quality for community info.
In general if a car manufacturer doesn’t use a company to manufacture parts for them just don’t use them. You will chase your ass diagnosing parts that work but have issues, don’t fit right, or just won’t last. European...
I am a technician and the market is flooded, absolutely flooded with BS parts. Mainly Chinese with cheaper materials, no r&d, at a price point to get suckers to take the chance on it. If a car company doesn’t use that manufacturer, don’t buy it.
Just do it once and do it right.
Replace all of the studs and nuts with quality parts
Red Loctite the studs into the head
Don’t put loctite on the nuts but tighten evenly from the center out.
You shouldn’t have an issue if it’s done right.
The point of pressure testing the cooling system is to see if it drops below the set PSI(I would recommend to the cap rating).
You saying that it’s holding, then saying you’re losing coolant just means you’re not looking hard enough. Get some dish soap/water in a bottle and start spraying every...
Remember when we didn’t use a cap lock tools and just did timing belts with no issues? 😂 You should be fine if I’m reading that correctly. If he didn’t rotate the engine and if he did it would still need a bunch of torque to bend anything.
That’s the way it should be but people have become accustomed to either other people they know or shops throwing parts on without doing general maintenance or look over. If they recommended it and you actually understand that those things are absolutely necessary you shouldn’t be disappointed.