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I see it stalled when you came to a stop in the second log. Need to do a tps adjust as it sits at .67 & throttle% is 1% so idle switch isn't working and not turning off injectors when you come to a stop.
So you did shim the pivot ball. Hmmm
I don’t think there should be any movement on the fork with slave installed. I’ll double check mineEdit there’s no play in the fork. I can not push it to the left but obviously can push it the right (back into the slave)
No pilot bearings in manual dsms, only autos.
@Anfurnyy only thing left is shim the pivot ball or play in the pedal assembly. Fork seems to be dead center to me. Have you tried to back the pivot ball out?
So your issue now is crank, no start and you have fuel pressure and spark? After you crank the engine, smell the plugs. It should smell like fuel. Try spraying starter fluid in the IM to see if it starts.Do you have another CAS you can try? In your log, timing is stuck at 5* but I'm not...
You have no fuel pressure? There’s no other way for the fuel to get in your manifold. Is it possible you have the injector wires crossed? What does the gauge read when you turn the pump on?
I've been hunting down lots of issues with the car and pretty much got ALMOST everything sorted out and I mean a lot. The latest issue to be resolved is that when the cooling fan would turn on, the idle would go low and idle seemed to surge ever so slightly. Did a BLT, check all grounds and...
The master is leaking for sure so get that fixed as well. As far as welding the pedal, I’d check if it has play since it seems like a pain to remove from what I’ve read. And grab a self bleeder. They’re only $10 and is so much easier because of the location of the bleeder on the 1gs.
There are two different bore size for the slave. Got to post #392https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gstwithpsi-galant-vr4-1837-of-2000.482807/page-16#post-153750177So you have a bad slave?
@pauleyman are you sure 1g & 2g kits are the same? I’m thinking it has to be slightly different at least from IC to throttle body including the bov. I see kits for sale that say it’s for a 1g or 2g
All good we’re here to help. If the harmonic balancer looks old, replace it because it will not be a good day if/when it comes apart. Same goes for the timing belt. There will be no warning if/when these fail.
Yup check the harmonic balancer. You’ll lose ps, water pump and alternator AND POSSIBLY JUMP TIMING if it ate up you timing cover. I did a 2g 4g63 recently and you can’t pull the harmonic balancer without removing the d/s engine mount as there isn’t enough room. What engine is this?
It should work better since clear bra adhesive is stronger than plastdip so I’d imaging it would work well. But I haven’t tried it myself :idontknow:Obviously you don’t want to put piping hot water on some parts lol
White with some flakes looks sick. Check out motionautotv on YT. They just painted evo/lancer wagon that color and it looks amazing. Black is a very hard color to keep clean
Is it the one that's on the outside bottom of the window/top of door panel? Yeah they all get brittle and cracks. it's metal underneath so you can remove what you can and paint them or try wrapping them.
Hmm I’ve always used combinedFT (as per link demo video) to dial in deadtime. Just like a lot of other things, there’s more than one way to skin a cat.Below is from links wiki pagehttps://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/fueltrimupdatepointsThe ECU will also watch what's going on with the short term...
Don’t have my laptop now. Wasn’t his combinedFT -10%? And doesn’t STFT move into LTFT at a certain point? I can post a log of my LTFT changing at idle.
Props to you @iugrad92turbo 🙏🙏🙏. For anyone that’s looking for a replacement AND has an extra radiator fan, you can use the thermoswitch connector off the radiator fan that goes into the radiator. It uses the same plug.
NEEDS BISS adjustment & its RICH
Once it's fully warmed up, turn the biss screw slowly until iscposition is around 30 with all electronics off including fans. This will take a minute as the fan turns on and off. It's still rich based on LTFT. You want all your fuel trims close to zero (+/- 2%)...
All the way on top in the setting screen you’ll see save as. Save it to your desktop. Then come here and select attach file and find it.Yeah I’ve been there and it’s definitely overwhelming in the beginning. There’s just a lot to take in but once you get used to playing around with all the...
You can post just the settings or any log so we can view to try and help. It’s just easier than looking at pics. Might be a dumb question, have you gone through this page
http://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/sdsetupAs for the injectors, as long as you’re not too far off on global and deadtime, it’ll...
If all the setting are correct and the car still doesn’t start, spray some starter fluid in the IM and see if it starts. If it does, you can increase crankingfueladjust which is only active for a few seconds during startup.
One line goes to the water pipe and the other to the back of the thermostat housing. Take one off and put it to the other. Compression test will test how much pressure you build in a cylinder. Leak down test will tell you where the compression is leaking to. If you’re not seeing smoke, it’s not...
Loop the lines to the heater core and see if you still gets low. You have to pull the dash to get to the heater core. Eric Tande did a great YT video and his channel is Velocity Lab.