After a ton of digging around I came across the an oem part number for the 1994 Galant 2.4 Dohc / 2g dsm for fitment. The mid cover is different between the 4g63/4g64 due to the deck height.Lower
Part Number: MD332865
Supersession(s): MD193337Mid
MD191813
I should probably add, this car hasn't seen the road since 2015 and I have no idea when the previous mods where done. There's lots of springs that's aren't available anymore, so even looking at the options now doesn't work to compare.
Hey guys, I bought a 1g a while back and it's easy to figure out it has kyb gr2 struts but I can't find any markings on the springs or information when searching around.Anyone have any idea what lowering springs these are?
My car came with a janky 7 bolt cover scabbed onto my GC4S 6 bolt motor and after hours of research I keep coming up empty on a part number for a timing cover, anyone know it? Also to add I am making an assumption the stock 6 bolt cover will not fit with the taller deck height, is that correct...
I wanted to bump this thread for more information and add some as well.The limits I've found is a bad bore/stroke ratio which limits the 2.4 to a safe 8500rpm limit. The other weakness I found in research is the factory 4g64 crank likes to crack at around 700 wheel, block wise I haven't found...
I hear you, it's crazy the amount of feedback on the eagles vs the Manley.I suppose it's saving the extra $100 that makes them the go to.But I find it really surprising that there isn't much info or talk on the Manleys
I've done a far amount of research and understand both are china castings and then machined in the states.The best poster I found on the eagles was Tim at TMZ, pushing them over 800whp and being completely fine, as for the Manleys there was little to no information on them other than...
I cams across talks of that, specific to which block castings? Gcs or the spider 4gGenuinely interestedand yeah I've come to terms with a lower rpm band with the bore, it's the trade off.yeah the 625 hardware really improves any rods capabilities, aluminum seem to avoid this by the weight...
Interesting since, a lot of big power evo builds are 2.3 or 2.4, what's your reasoning behind your opinion?Injectors are at there max point for the goals I agree, the dual pump set up will notIts a Twin scroll T4, Red demon put down high 9XX with the same turbo with smaller cams and a few...
Searched around did a bunch of research. Haven't found a definitive choice.Will be a street car, quick and dirty details are
2.4 gcs block
Cp pistons
Eagle crank2150cc injectors / Dual Wally 450Pte 6766Power level is unknown at this point as I will be limited by my fuel choices, im over...
Just wanted to follow up, hopefully it will help someone in the future.Retainers are steel, confirmed with magnet. Seem to be stock.I don't have the ability to test the valve springs but I also believe they are stock if the Retainers are.I will post an update when I degree the cams in
This is true, I ordered custom pistons from arias for my 1000whp Honda and they took 6 months, as well as I upgraded the head studs to 12mm and arp took 9 months.The world is still backlogged from covid and supply issues unfortunately, and that's the way I look at it as well.
After calling arp this is the answer. They only do batch runs and it's custom order. So that sets the rate. It's unfortunate but it is what it is.Thanks everyone for contributing
The example I gave was the standard arp head bolts for a comparison. Makes me double think the claim about "material costs"While the l19's will cost more to produce, the price is reflected in the 7 bolt variant of that. The $200 price hike between the 6 vs 7 isn't warranted.The only logical...
Like Paul said with it not being off the shelf item, they can set the rates. I'm going to call today and see what info I can get.As for the speculation on the material cost. Here's the pricing on regular 6 vs 7 bolt head kits.
Thanks, when I get the chance I'll call arp and see if I can get some numbers or info to see if it's posiable to get them at a decent price.I run 12mm arp studs in my Honda and they are cheaper then what the 6 bolt ones are.
Thats a theory, but I doubt almost doubling the price is for 1mm bigger studsAnd from what I've seen most high hp builds are 6 bolts that would use l19's.
Couple questions I can't seem to find the answers for,1. I noticed a $200 price hike for L19's between the 6 and 7 bolt... what gives for the price gouge on the 6 bolt?2. What's the ARP part number? Noone lists itThanks
This is the laziest post I've seen in a long time, clean it up and you might get an answer. Although this topic been brought up LOTS and is easy to find on here
Interesting, thanks for that info. My 1996 2g stock springs have red or orange on them, and the retainers looked different to me than whats on this 92, I'll have to dig them out and compare them to the 1g's when I get a chance.This is the only photo I have of my 96 head when it had all stock...
Interesting, from all the info I found springs and retainers are the same between the 1g and 2g heads, is that correct?Because the stock springs and retainers that came out of my 2g head are completely different.
If it had a giant HKS logo, I wouldn't be asking what it is...Also if it was the case it wouldn't have hand engraving on the face...I'm not trying to be a dick but you clearly didn't read and look at what I posted.
I did but thanks for trying to help.I should add I did find another post about another member having mystery cams and they have the same engravings on the front but the poster never got any information nor did he follow up if he did figure out what they are...
Surprised there hasn't been any input. I'm going to pull the head just as a maintenance item and to see what previous owners have done (or butcher'd)I'll post better pictures of the components then, hopefully someone can chime in.
With what you have you should be able to meet your power goals, the kelfords would be an upgrade but if you are already hitting your goals I don't see the point.Also might want to think about the Fp Green so you have a little more room to grow and then you're not buying parts twice.
This would make me second guess all the other work they have done.You could run it and "might" be able to get away with it... but why risk it. Delta Cams like someone else mentioned does spray welding and could repair that.
so what your trying to say is that it will fire off and stall out? Do you have any cels? and have you tried another ecu, old Mitsubishi ecus are known to have caps go bad and not fire the injectors.
Update to add, measured the lift of the cams. Seems to be a offset like 264/272Intake is 10mm lift
Exhaust is 9.62mm liftBare in mind my calipers could be off a little so consider those numbers ish within reason.
I've towed lots of my cars behind my truck, it's not a big deal.1.Pick gas stations you can pull through
2.Cover all or atleast the front end from rocks being kicked up from the tow vehicle.
3. Strap in all 4 corners and re-tension straps in a short distance.Uhaul trailers also suck to use...
I recently picked up a 1gb that the previous owner has no idea what's been done to it. I can't seem to figure out what these are, any help is much appreciatedAlso the head has aem cam gears and 3g lifters and arp studs
Yes, the short is on the fuse and cc ecu wiring side of B40, I wish it was the clockspring side. That would be much easier to diagnose.So on both the input and output of the switch I'm getting continuity to ground.Hopefully I can find both the problems