I think it's a "New perfection" brand... same thing you'd get if you bought one from autozone or O'reillys, brand new never used. I got it with my 1g AWD talon, googling the part number it sounds like a N/A FWD clutch rather than AWD. Look it up yourself make sure it fits what you're doing...

New stock parts store replacement radiator... $30 shipping not included

Anyone have a front hub with the brake rotor off floating around? I need the O.D measurement (with calipers plz). This is for a set of brake rotors that need machining.

Well what a coincidence, I too desired a big SMIC for my 1g, and recognized the demand for them that has gone unfilled. I did a mockup complete with core dimensions already available, 2.5" inlet and outlet, and also a template to cut the sheetmetal of the car. I planned on sourcing the...

*shrug*... why you revving only to 3800?

Everythings good, every DSM i've driven dies at 5K+ on stock cams, this one is no difference. Cams are the primary effect on where peak HP is unless your turbo is choked either hot or cold side... Besides that go look at what other 68HTA guys are making peak HP at with cams... not a turbo thing

Any turbo, just stock cams

68HTA, stock appearing housing

I find that impossible to believe...

Anyone got some? I knew stock cams were garbage but I didn't expect to make peak HP at 5300

Everyone wants flashy and loud and atmospheric dumped, I want the opposite. I like to fly under the radar here for smog, currently I run a crushed 1g BOV recirculated but I push 26 psi and it's over its limit. I'd like to replace it with a low key BOV that will bolt right in as far as recirc...

I realize that but you don't need a line to go all the way to the master for that, just a 2.5 Foot section to go to the hard line

So I've noticed places sell a partial or full braided clutch line (one that goes back to the master). Can someone refresh my memory as to why? Isn't the only flex section at the transmission? Why would I replace the hardline....

Speaking of yourself I see

As requested here's my max octane map, my min is like 3-4 degrees less

Actually the mitsubishi knock system is very good, it's very responsive and fairly conservative. I used to run a 1g with a 14b at 20 psi with a sidemount and regularly saw max knock counts, bought it with 100k sold it with 135k still running strong. This 2g has a 6 bolt block I got out of...

I am, and no I do have knock issues. Like said in the post after yours you should be pulling timing from the stock 2g map. How much knock depends on the gear, nothing in 1st or second, 3rd is ok sometimes, 4th and 5th have the most. I leave my timing aggressive and let the knock system do...

lol oops, guess I never bothered to run the numbers...

Ya exactly, sounds like his MAF data is garbage :P

Ok that sounds a bit optimistic, not sure I believe that unless you have decent cams and are spinning it to like 8k

What cams was that setup with?

Yes it's a real mitsu e3... craigslist special but was still $350...

Yes I'm full aware the affects of airflow and engine induction/exhaust componentry. I forgot to mention I was suspecting part of the difference being the head, is this typical of a 2g head/intake manifold? Are they that much shittier airflow-wise than a 1g?I've considered what else could...

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Boost leak tested 5psi above your max boost with no leaks? Sure... 2). Verified mechanical timing? Yes 3). Verified base timing? Yes 4). Ignition system COP or Stock Coil: Wire brand and Age: Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: Stock, BPR7ES 5). Motor health...

Impressive airflow, is this a stock style compressor housing HTA? What cams/other mods?

EVOscan is f***ing horrid if you have a 95... just saying. Worst mistake I ever made

A whole 24 psi out of my E3-16g... VRSF FMIC

Welp, I tried it... tune was spot on, 11.6-11.8 A/F, bumped timing up to 13-15... no knock reported... headgasket didn't like it. Time for an MLS I think... Combo is 2g head, 6 bolt shortblock, ARP head studs, I used a composite headgasket when I put it together. Does mitsubishi make a MLS 6...

How long has yours been in service?

So quick poll here, how many are running just a stock filter?

Need one, let me know if you have or know of one for sale.Thanks

Yes you are correct, but you still need to deal with the o2 heater check...

You are mistaken, if you un-click the DTC checks all that will do is prevent it from throwing a code. A 2g is OBD2 and as such it has smog readyness flags. These readyness flags will not clear unless you allow the computer to check for DTCs on the systems associated with smog (o2 sensors...

Well I'm not going to uncheck the o2 DTC check.... I smog my car legally and I need my readyness flags ready.....

K thanks for the replies I guess I will just use the front o2 location. Does anyone here know the resistor impedance needed to tricking the ECU into thinking a narrowband heater is plugged in still?

So I've been reading about some cases where people are having shortened sensor life in the front o2 location. Is this true or is it possibly unrelated. I have a new innovate MTX I want to install in my 2g with DSMlink. I'd like to place it in the stock O2 location, pipe the 5 volt back...

Amazing no one knows this.

Just for my reference what is the maximum amount of knock timing retard a factory 2g ecu (95 for year reference) can give?

Boy did you ever luck out, just dropped the price on these drastically, eibachs:Located in vista1g DSM AWD eibach pro-lines + KYB AGX

It's Air fuel ratio, not fuel pressure...

I have V3 in my 2g and it worked fine with no problems.... Where are you at?

Timing can cause bad gas mileage, not extra fuelOk so I drove it more tonight, now it's getting random misfires at cruise just as if I didn't dial back the barometer... double checked it and it's still at 71-72 kPA :confused:. Starting to think ECU is bad

Current setup:95 talon AWD 6-bolt swap, 2g head/intake MHI E316G 560 evo injectors 255LPH walbro stock wiring stock FPR etc tuned with SAFC2 barometer wired with potentiometer to crank it below 73kPA (to avoid misfires due to 6 bolt swap) VSRF front mountthe car was running fine for almost a...

pro tip: ask reasonable money

2g coil pack?

I have a set, but I too broke the left side glass I believe, the other side glass is in shit condition as well. $5 if you wantem :P

Pro tip: if you want to sell parts respond to people that are inquiring

You haven't replied to my PM, please call me or PM me your number when you get a chance.

Sounds like he's looking at the factory gauge which is just a measure of how much air is going through your MAF NOT a direct measure of how much pressure is truely in you intake manifold, you have a boost leak most likely...

I've had wet CAS's cause problems like this. Also don't rule out bad coils/transistor. Even though the bad cylinders are not on a shared coil it could just mean each coil is only giving hot spark to the 1 cylinder. I'm kind of dealing with this same issue on my talon right now but I know...