Theres a big sticky about bench racing and to NOT do it.

What slowboy does he doesnt care about.It is a SBR version of the fp green. Just do a search for info on the green its the same turbo, very nice too should be happy with the results

It should be there version of the FP green. Does it have a 3in inlet 20g housing and also it should have a tdo6h turbine wheel. I dont know if they still make them.

Without the ring it will leak boost and spool slow. You need that ring no matter how hard it is to get it clamped.

I agree with what you say but the holset 1000injs were proven by r10performance to go 11s easy first time at the track on a stock bottom end.

Hes got a motor to support one of those turbos and who said he would run 16psi. I DD a rs65 on 25psi and love it. Streetable turbo is all a matter of opinion. The 3065 would even spool quicker then mine.

Until you have used one you will have no idea why they burn up on the street. They are made for drag racing and not trying to leave a redlight. Its like on and off no in between. As for the ACT we are telling him what he should do since me and starion4g63 both have used a twin disc and are...

Street driving and slipping from lights will kill it doesnt make you an idiot. Its not good on a daily car. I know this cause I have run one. I really dont understand all this I need a twin disc crap. Does everyone have that much money to abuse. ACT even make a 3200 and use a 6 puck for a ton...

Waiting on the new clutch. Dont mean to keep bumping but anyone who knows about transmissions please chime in here and let me know if it could be the tranny. I dont want to install is to find out its bad. I spent over 2gs on it for a full race so hope to god its not it. Anyone with any ideas...

I can tell you personally that a twin disc will not be the last clutch you ever by. If you drive it on the street you will destroy it because you want to slip it to leave a light smooth but does NOT slip at all.I say this from personal experience after just pulling mine from the car because...

The pedal pressure on the twin disc is not that light either. I dont see any reason a twin disc is needed for 400 crank hp. Go to the 1/4mile time list and look at there mods. Youll see alot of 2600 and 2900s because they work for 1000 less. They even make a 3200 if you need more. The 2600 can...

Checked the input shaft and its tight still nothing loose there. Gonna put a 2900 and a stock flywheel.

Go for a 2900. I had a fx600 and street driving will kill it. Putting a 2900 in my car now. Twin discis not needed for 400 horsepower you can save over a grand by just getting a 2900

Looks like a tial 40mm. Flange is the same shape but dont know the measurements off hand.

No its the one I have sitting in my room. Definatly the same one as on that site. I had it on my car bolt to my 2g mani with external and a ported 2g o2 housing so it is definatly a bolt on.

I believe he is talking about the one I have which is a PTE GT30R. This will bolt on to the stock manifold. Can be seen on diamondstarmotorsports turbo page near the top.Heres the linkhttp://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/turboparts.shtml2cd turbo on the page

So does Spec or anyone else out there have anything that is decent to drive on the street like a 2900 with a street disc. I dont like that act fails but I cant find anything better. I will need something that will have to hold more then 415 torque. Last clutch was a clutch master twin disc...

Driving home normal nothing out of the ordinary and a banging noise starts, very loud sounds like something smacking together. I pulled over and shut the car off. When I start the car and I have the clutch pushed in it just makes the normal chattering it always made but when I let the clutch...

Anyone running one of these have any pics of how they did there piping and got the hx35 too fit

Yea I was just reading up on that. Ill probably just put the lines back or could I just block it off. Do you know how I can block off a 90 or any links for it. Thanks for the help

How did you plug the 90?

I also dont have the coolant lines running to it anymore I just re-routed them back together. I dont think that makes a differnce but just incase wanted to mention it.

I have been fixing all my boost leaks and I got to my 90 tb and the shaft seals were bad. So I used my jdm throttle body rebuilt it with new seals and put it back on the car. I adjust the tps so I had 10% at idle idle is a 2200. I adjust the throttle cable so it got rid of the slack but did not...

You could get the b&m fuel pressure gauge kit that lets you put the guage on top of the fuel filter but instead of putting the gauge in the fitting use it to feed the feul line. Would be a clean way of doing it

When I did it I actually just drilled and tapped it to 1/8npt and used teflon tape had no leaks

I doubt this is it but I had a whiny sound come from mine and the car started to get hard to put into gear. I thought it was a belt making the noise at first but it turned out to be my throw out bearing seized and was grinding through my pressure plate. It ground so far that I could no long...

Just used this thread to rebuild my 90. I just used my gas stove and held the ring in the flame. Works great will cook the seal and just crumbles right out of the ring.

There is a 2g mas adapter plug for people with 1gs that want to run the 2g mas. Since you already have a 2g you will not need an adapter. Maybe an adapter to run a cone filter to get rid of the stock air box other then that you shouldnt need one.

I have denso 660s, rewired holley 255 and I run a sx regulator with a guage on it. When I turn the car off its takes a long time for the pressure to go back down. I never stayed out long enough but it is a while.

Found a nice big boost leak and the coupler at my tb elbow. Had a rip in it and boost gauge in the car wouldnt go up cause the air was coming out so fast. Also found one of the o2 housing bolts came loose so tightened that up. Hopefully when all the boost leaks are gone finally get this thing...

Test to the psi that you are goin to run dont worry about any higher if you wont see that level of boost.

I been using my logger like I always did and no I have the wideband wired into the egrt. When I log it under normal conditions it is fairly close to what the display says on the logger. I know about the high impedence so its not 100% accurate but I been trying to log when Im at full throttle and...

When I installed mine I wired in the narrowband output to replace cause my stock one crapped out so it took care of that but seems like the car driving normally now just runs like always going rich or lean during normal driving just jumping around. I been knocking like hell just on normal...

You can use it with some of the aftermarket smim but I dont think you can with the stock mani.

Im logging with mmcd 1.8 with the egrt so are my readings not accurate and what do I need to make them read right?

so it converts the 0-5v signal from the wideband to afr on the logger you just cant read that on the pc? Aslong as it converts it on the logger I should be ok with that for now. Thanks

Anyone using there MMCD to log their wideband and how do you like it? Since I already have a palm seems alot cheaper to log with it on there

Yea I just wanted to make sure it was safe to see those oil pressure when on it. The oil pressure at idle is fine just wasnt sure how much it should go up when you give it gas.

Those psi numbers were from my autometer gauge, I dont use the stock one anymore. My ecu is a 90 just had it rebuilt a few months back its still holding up fine.

I have a 90 housing and when the stock sending unit crapped out just got the autometer one and it screwed right in there. Very easy took no time at all.

Comp tested the motor and it came back perfect. Put an autometer gauge in and getting normal oil pressure when warmed up now. When I rev the motor the pressure jumps all the way up to near 100. It wasnt fully warmed up but enough to get the pressure down to 35 at idle. Is this normal for it to...

Take off the plastic around the steering column and look at the back of where you put the key in at. The ignition switch is there and follow it for about a foot and it will have a connector. Just pull the connector apart and plug the harness in.

Starting to take away possibilities. The Pcv checked out ok

Under boost its not bad for the pressure to go up but I am having this problem at idle and all rpms.

I let the car sit since my last post since we got some snow. Still when I start it up it goes the normal spot and starts slowly going up but once you put it into gear and go to move it just goes up to almost at the H just after the line that is before it. Im not sure what could cause this high...

Yea I was thinking that too but I could see that all the extra pressure pushed the oil passed the seals in the turbo and into the comp housing. I searchd on here for anything like this but didnt find any answers. If I missed thread on it let me know and ill check it out. Thanks

I was last nite and I noticed and I got on it the one time my oil pressure went nuts and up to between the H and the line right before it. I pulled over and sat for a while. Went driving back home and it kept staying right by the H. I got it home and looked under the hood and I wasnt leaking...

Yea I thats what I was saying. That the ss expands differnt. Thanks. I hope it holds up for a while

Yea I talked to the JM Fabrication in Philly and he said it should hold cause mild steel wont expand and all that stuff that causes cracking. Any other opinons. I know the welding is that good but when your poor you just want it to work. Thanks guys