It took me a month to cut and fully weld. It was no hack job you have to swap wiring and if you don't swap the dash there's a wire you have to cut. Power steering and all has to be swapped along with crossmember and sub frames.
Mine is low and I can hardly fit my low profile jack underneath and it sucks. That's one reason I can think of not to slam a car. I had a 97 gs with 19s on it that were tucked, and beleive me it felt like my ass was riding tar it was so low. It wasn't great to drive that's for sure.
A little update on the car it wouldn't start and I had the fuel pump wired straight to 12v. It still wouldn't start and when it was running it had a nasty lope to it. I had a spare ecu lying around, popped it in and it started. Wired everything back to stock since previous owner wired it to its...
I wish you the best of luck and hopefully everything works out. I've been down that road of just slap it together. It never really works out but I'll be positive about it.
First thing I'd check is firing order it's easy and can be overlooked. I'd double and triple check the timing. If all they did was the head gasket and it ran before they did it, I highly doubt you need an engine.
Man if I had the brain power to build a PC I definitely would. I'm stuck with the Xbox unfortunately. The ps2 is a certified classic I still have my thick one collecting dust.
I won't lie though it's got 259k miles so I really can't complain to much. Everything is original, so I'm not too upset. I do like the next generation they are alot sleeker, not so egg looking.
If your building the engine trust me that 7 pounds of boost is going to turn into 20. The bug will get you I'd at least look into megasquirt, unless your willing to take that chance.
Honestly guys I'm glad you said something about that. I'm going to assume that's why my oil pressure was real high when I used main studs. I didn't know you had to when using main studs but now I know. I still don't know this engine very well but I'm learning.
I just bought an eclipse with the 420a and previous owner put a turbo on it. He said he slapped in neon pistons which have a slightly lower compression. I don't know how true that is as I'm still learning but it's held up on 7 pounds for 10 plus years. I to am going to re buy some forged pistons...
Should be a little clip that holds it on. If you can't find one you can use any sort of deal to fit in the groove. I remember using mechanics wire until I got the right clip.
I dont know what it is about these engines that machine shops don't want to touch. I to had the same issues with finding a machine shop to even just check it out. Nobody wanted to even look at it for me so I took it all into my own hands. I dove right in and everyone is right they are very easy...
About as base as you can get. The one I just got the guy swapped everything from a gs, so I had literally no idea there was a model below rs. I thought rs was as base as it got. If the spoiler wasn't attached I would have left it alone.
I've never seen or heard of one so that's something new. The previous owner said it was an rs so it didn't come with a spoiler and that confused me, because I've had plenty of the rs but only with spoilers.
I have an early 95 2g eclipse rs, and there is absolutely zero holes for where the low rise spoiler mounts to. Previous owner threw on a spoiler from some sort of a chrysler. I was just curious if any of these cars came without a spoiler. If they all did someone did one absolutely terrific job...
When I had mine turbo I ran very rich at idle from my fuel pump pushing to much fuel. I didn't have a fpr just an fmu. You also have to take into account when it's cooler or warmer out, your afr will change. I remember having to adjust my stuff constantly to get that right afr on certain days...
I finally fully upgraded my 96 jeep. I was kind of pressured by my two buddies who just got there's. It originally had 31s on it but now has 33s, so of course i had to give it some more height.
I found out when mine was constantly leaking that the oil was coming from the cam seals, even though they were brand new. The leak was running all the way down by my filter. Just another idea if you haven't pin pointed the leak yet.
I literally just did this to my buddies 95 I removed the crossmember that bolts from the front rad support to the back. You then have to raise it up as high as you can but be careful or you'll break the tps. It's extremely tight but you can wiggle it enough to come out. It's not easy so be...
If someone ends up making those drip rails I'll be buying as many as I can. I've only seen one set, which is in my garage atm, in perfect shape but the car has been garage kept for 20 years. 10 of those years in storage not driving.
That is awesome!! I'm glad there are still good things that happen to good people. I to recently had a great thing happen to me. A member on this forum found a whole interior I needed, 16 hours away from me. He pulled that whole interior and it's sitting in his garage right now waiting to be...
I have a dump on my car right now and everyone's right aside from it being too loud. It's loud but really not over the top for me anyways. Everyone is different and has different levels of loudness. I live where cops don't care about mods or emissions so it really isn't a big deal for me...
I have standard sized low compression wiseco pistons and eagle rods with maybe 50 miles on them. I bought them brand new in 2021 and they sat in the engine for a few years. They look like they are in very very good shape. I have the original boxes but I'll probably send them in a box that I can...
If its breaking down that much I'd probably start going through that thing with a fine toothed comb. If there built right they should be able to handle boost pretty well, at a safe level of course.
Those strut towers look alot better than most. Mine are rusted worse but your right all that is fixable. Make sure to check the trunk where the spare tire sits I've seen rust pepper through that. When you get one cheap you know what your in for just dont give up.
Big thanks to @IHeartMyHonda for pulling a full interior out of a car from the junkyard for me. Definitely saved me big time. I live 16 hours away and this interior is a tough one to find. The community on this forum is really outstanding! Thanks again guys.
I'll have to check when I get home, I can snap a picture for you. Its been awhile since I did it, but I didn't swap anything that had to do with the key cylinder or anything.
When I did the manual conversion to mine I left all the ignition stuff alone. I just made sure to leave the park cable pushed in so I could turn the key. It's just hiding underneath the carpet.
I'd start with new plugs or if they've been replaced check out the gap and how they look. I'd also just check the basics like intercooler piping, exhaust leaks before the turbo. Check fuel pressure and make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. Thats about all I can think of at the moment that...