Does your check engine light turn off after a couple seconds after cycling the key to on? If it doesn't your chip might need to be replaced. I had that issue after buying a used Ecmlink V3 which had the chip put on backwards. I send it in a got a new one replaced since it was fried.

Pistons and rods have sold

Price drop on rods and pistons 540+ pp and shipping and new picture on whats missing on the engine mounts

I don't know what your budget is but I would look into aluminum subframe bushings. I Found them easy to install but that's because I had all the tools to do the job.

New 6 bolt JE piston comp ratio 8.5:1 .20 over and New 6 bolt Manley H beam connecting rods. $600+ shipping and pp feesNew 2g m/t Avid racing engine mounts, bought from extremepsi and 6 months later when I finally put everything back together noticed how one of the mounts was missing the...

On my 6 bolt block there was a VIN stamped on the side where the transmission bolts onto the engine. Look under the thermostat housing, I'm not sure if all 6 bolts were stamped.

Is it auto or manual? If it's manual check out the clutch and flywheel apart from that spyderdrifter got about everything. I'm pretty sure you can find a complete rebuild kit with most seals and gaskets, GL!

Was this going on before you bought the new ecu? I've had problems with new ecu's not functioning on other cars. Put a noid light on the injectors and see if their all pulsing and if they're not go back and check your sensors.

Try a diesel parts store or shop

Support community vendors +1 for archer fabrication or bsfab

If you cant see the pins on the cams then take them off make sure they are pointing up, take the spark plug out in cyl #1 and put a screw driver down to check to see if it's at tdc.

I would check to see if the timing is correct, then I would check for fuel or spark. Does it have 2g cam and crank sensors? or 1g cas?

We're the coils you replaced new? or used? Check your injector connectors to make sure they're all plugged in. Try putting in your old coils and see if the car runs.

Car looks pretty rough! I wouldn't buy it. If you do decide to buy make sure your committed to it especially when you know it's going to need a lot of tlc. I'm almost done with mine and it was a... pain, especially with no help. Better have enough elbow grease

I would personally drop the transmission and engine together, I would also change out the rear main seal ( behind the flywheel) just so you wont have to go in again in a while. You can either take a tie rod off or pop the control arm out either way it shouldn't be too hard to take the axle out.

yes should be safe to use just buy new bearings and new piston rings just to be on the safe side.

test the coils, if you cant find something on another thread or forum let me know ill see if I could find it.

I tested my coil pack and it came out good, tested both used power transistors and I was getting weird readings with my dads analog ohmeter. I used this method for testing- http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/how-to-test-the-power-transistors.229419/ and that's why I ended up getting a new one. I...

I am lost.. My car started a couple months back, never ran it though since i wanted to tune it with sd kit and the new fmic. I ended up finding a used ecmlink v3 ecu but I couldn't get it to connect, after a while on reading on ecmlink wiki pages I figured out that their was something wrong with...

Alright ill try that, thanks! :thumb:

I just recently bought a 2g dsm connector kit and was wondering how the pins are suppose to go. The new knock sensor I bought has 2 pins and my harness has a white wire that shielded by strands of other wire, is that the ground? does it need a pin to connector to the new knock sensor?

Bleed them and before starting it remove the fuel pump relay and crank the engine to lubricate it before you turn it on.

If you looking for a used one talk to Steve Miller owner of Miller Import parts.

If it doesn't crank and it turns over when you push start it I would test the starter. If the starter just makes a clicking noise double check you grounds and or clean battery terminals.

1989-1994 is 6 bolt and I think some change after august of 1992 ( that's what I was asked when I ordered new pistons) and 1995-1999 is 7 bolt. 6/7 bolt meaning number of bolts that the crankshaft has. 6 bolt has different style main bearings than the 7 bolt, the 7 bolt uses thrust...

A crate engine wouldn't be a bad idea but it'll be a lot cheaper if you rebuilt the block as long as its in good condition.

Take it to the machine shop and let him tell you what you need to get for the block. As for the head, lay it upside down with spark plugs still in it and put with gas or mineral spirits where combustion happens. You'll be able to see if your valve are sealing right. If its not to bad or not at...

Take it to the machine shop and let him tell you what you need to get for the block. As for the head, lay it upside down with spark plugs still in it and put with gas or mineral spirits where combustion happens. You'll be able to see if your valve are sealing right. If its not to bad or not at...

Take it to the machine shop and let him tell you what you need to get for the block. As for the head, lay it upside down with spark plugs still in it and put with gas or mineral spirits where combustion happens. You'll be able to see if your valve are sealing right. If its not to bad or not at...

It all depends on what goals you have and what your budget is. You'll need a lot of free time and elbow grease! I'm just about to finish mine :hellyeah: and its not easy especially if you don't have the right tools. I would just make a trip to a junkyard every time they bring a car in, or leave...

The timing belt tensioner tool should be about $20-$40, aside from the needle nose you could also use snap ring pliers.

When your ready to put the timing belt on just make sure your camshaft timing marks are lined up, take off all four spark plugs so you wont fight compression. Put a screwdriver in cyl #1 so you have an idea where the piston is, move the crank till the top of the screw driver is tdc and double...

I got a little confused with what you were talking about, for some reason I thought you needed info on a special tool to hold the back side of it. You can just use your hand for the back and then you can use a 10mm wrench to tighten the front. Here's a picture I just took, this is on the railing...

I would take the window out so you have enough room to tighten it from the back. Just take the top trimming of and angle the window and it should come out. I'm barely putting my car back together and that's what I did.

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