just wondering what the max out for a MHI 20g is these days with link v3 and all the options we have. Also how am I able to tell what hot turbine wheel I have and compressor wheel I did not buy this new Want to be 100% what I'm working with.
Hey guys I would apriciate some feed back.. i am getting fuel smell in oil and crank case.. engine has just be rebuilt and I did a compression test 2 times, both were perfect. Fuel mods are 255 walbro hp and Aeromotive FPR. 2g injectors 450 cc black tops.. car seems to be running rich even...
the Ebay one depending on the looks of it. could really provent creep depending on what boost levels your at. but the quality is up for grabs but it would be pointless if you plan on going to an external setup in the future. IF you port the shit out of the 2g one it should do you good and you...
you could always polish the cover there is a decient write up on here on how to do it. It was come out to a Chrome finish when you done and you dont got to worry about it chiping or tainting
HAH yeah didnt even thing of that should of read the post better:coy::coy: that is a good point DEFF ball joints or tie rods ALSO sway bar too if the bushings are shot that will cause what he saying.. his discription is alittle vague though more info would really help out
sounds like this could be an exhaust/wastegate NOT a boost leakproblem (see the below story JUST to give you an idea if you new to DSMS and turbos). if it is a vac leak it prob a HUGE one enough to effect the idle which i didnt see you mention, What size Downpipe are you running? and what size...
^^^^ that is a good observation BUT.. bowwow21 you might want to look into replacing the "bushings" that hold the drive shaft to the floor underneath. Go under and try to see if there is any play in the bracket that hold the drive shaft up. ALSO check the "REAR DIFF" there is 4 bolts that bolt...
re-wiring isnt completely ness. it just provents the voltage drop when boosting (keeps the voltage from dropping off) also put your blinker on and listen to the pump you should hear the whine pitch change, NOT GOOD :D. depending on the LPH that pump has will depend on of you are going to need a...
was refuring to the block mains, not crank btw.. and the rod bores (just as important though) (i once bought a crank from SBR and it was out of round thank GOD i check i had to send it back) Anyway :D somtimes over time esp on high milage motors (beaten) the mains get out of round *leading* to...
your right eveyrone has an opinion. ME i tend to be annal and going back to the mains and what not i can bet they wern't measured to check for spec. (not knockng dave at all) I think it all falls down to if you know what your doing or not. someone with experience and the right micro kit can...
yes sir.. most of those cars ant mine. they are nice tho ESP the wrx. DSM's are still my fav tho had 4 1gs in 7 years time :D this one is my baby 100% rust free and bone stock when I bought it
GOD your going to hate your self later. Did i mention your goin to hate your self later? :D. you should take the time and do it right this time. try and do your best to find a machine shop or get an idea what it would cost to ship it.Composite or not you should resurfaced at least both block and...
OEM BEARINGS!!! oh yeah one more time OEM bearings!!! :D.. nah its personal pref everyone had diff opinions :)
ACL are over rated and way too expensive.. all in all your crank shouldnt be touching your bearings LOL or your in deep [email protected]#T. TRI METAL OR WHAT EVER!!! there are people running stock...
just so you know and to be absolutly certain, run a string across your cam gears from exhaust to intake they should be completely strait UNTILL you get to the OUTER notch on the INTAKE cam (outside notch facing the firewall) it will be 1/2 tooth off UPWARDS i have done a million timing belts and...
depending on the date and time 20 or 21? (time?) and where in jersey i would go....i could also throw your car on my trailer if you drive it to my house..im 15-20 mins from the city 5 mins from chester
i can build it for you cheap if you have all the stuff give me a call, even if ya need some advice on build options/machine work questions. pm sent. i will be in the ocean city area for the next 2 weeks
[I dont care if the block goes.. Im sure it will hold...you better find some wood or a F$%^ing tree to knock on my friend ASAP ROFL :applause::applause:
good luck with your dyno day btw hope all goes well youll be to reach that goal no problem go for 375rob
i woudlnt technically your shoudl have your block line bored if you go with the ARP studs, as i was in the same spot your were at one point. the stock bolts should be fine to 550hp bro, no worries. the rod bolts now are a diff story :)
i know people kind of blew off the comp issue you posted earlier but it caught my attention. I would look into that compression problem bro after you get her dynoed or even before if it was me. You are off 10psi in 3 cylinders which is decient if you add them up. and 20 psi off in the 4th you...
make sure there is a hose coming off the BOV that is connecting back to your intake.. so a hose from the bov to the intake is needed unless your have other mods to remove it other wise
do these steps it your should be good
1. make sure you are not venting the BOV--
2. set your idle and BLISS properly (grounded) (or tweak it to whats needed)
*3. do a boost leak test*
4. check your Throttle cable and Throttle Position sensor (volt meter)
5. Clean your throttle body and...
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That is a GRRREEATT link :applause::applause::applause: BOOKMARKED!!!!!!:thumb:btw thanks for sharing that bro, to some of us those formulas are golden!
your not goin to need a Adjustable regulator with that pump. save your money for somthing elese, they are expensive. Also let us know your power goals are. I assum your looking to also save hastle with a unaccurate TUNING device, since different HP ranges will call for different devices*just...
i second that. dont take offence to the noob remark bud, just take a look at the first link given incase your have more questions later, and use the search to avoid being flamed :thumb: if your confused about anyting PM me or give me a shout ill be glad to get your car running good
DO NOT HEAT THAT! it is more then one piece. and it will destroy/weaken your part. not to mention that ALL your most important pieces of you motor to make it operate are right there!! that piece is held togaether by a real tiny ammout of sealant/rubber etc. take some PB blaster or WD-40 and soak...
it woudl be nice if we could start/have a little meet before this huge one, just got my 1g screaming the streets. would be nice to have a crew cruise sooner then another month and a half.:applause: im 15-20 mins from center city philly anyone down for this? I am also like 7 mins from Riddley...
1. fill out your profile to let us know exactly what your working with in your car that is HUGE*****i would do as kolby suggested *boost leak test* deffantly*** replace your fuel filter and check your fuel pump if you know your way around tuning and its somting thats unexplained2. if...
if it is a stock sunroof then one bad thing is that it prob most likly leaks :( youll find out sooner or later )http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/appearance-interior-exterior/5067-sunroof-repair-2g-merged-8-8-sun-roof-rail-jam-stuck-open.html
Sure bro :) one thing you can do is get a turbo blanket for your turbo hotside it keeps the heat in since yours is prob squeezed in there (not factory) also you can wrap your headers/mani in exhaust wrap, this helps alot but a possiblilty for cracking depending how good your manifod is. And you...
if i were you i would take that money and spend it elese where on other things that you may need (most cams come pretty darn close to center line depending on the brand), degreeing in you cams put the icing on the cake after your have everything for your setup that you need to get the most...
and i thought my motor was clean :), (got some miles on her now like 8k) damnnn looks great man clean as hell :applause: :applause: your cheeks/face are goin to hate that turbo after a few pulls..... BAD!!ROFL
you could always try reseting your ECU at worst case senario :( unplug the battery for alittle while and reset the biach :sneaky:btw iv had some strange cases of idle issue in the past with a few 1 and 2g iv serviced, i could try and work with ya one day if you want to give me a ring well...
do these steps it your shoudl be good
1. make sure you are not venting the BOV-- :) i kno your not
2. set your idle and BLISS properly (or tweak it to whats needed)
*3. do a boost leak test*
4. check your Throttle cable and Throttle Position sensor (volt meter)
5. Clean your throttle body...
hey man, MAKE SURE you clean that block and head out as much as you can, stick a power washer point bland into all the holes on the block before you take it to get tanked and cleaned/painted (its what i do with all my builds) :D also your crank is more then likly messed up:sosad: i really hope...