Ceddy mod...uses rear o2 simple and you lose nothing!

for simplicity go with the evo 8 vs the 9 and don't waste your time with 98-99dsm ecu.If you want the best H8 ecu for future upgrading go evo 9. But its a few more wires to switch and maybe a check engine light!oh and have fun!

Just a few question if you have time! just having the balls to tackle this job i'll give your props. With that said if you have the money and not rolling pennys then its a hell of a lot easier! i would have bet money chop strand would have been heavier. :DWhat weight of mat are you using...

the 1.3D cable will log twice as fast as the open port 2.0 cable (which you need to flash a 98 ecu) 1.3R cable can flash a evo 7.8.9 ecu but not a 98 dsm.the R- is twice as much money as the Dyou will need a 1.3 D cable and an op2.0 cable for a dsmSo find an evo 8 ecu and swap...

really just to save a buck?

you will need an evo 8 or 9 ecu with tephra mod, this will give you dual 30x30 maps and you will need an Aquamist meth injection system for any fail safe options. They work together and there is a lot of support!the best meth system on the market!

no drivers for my usb to serial....on 8 64bit! on mac with parallelsdidn't try 32bit and didn't try with pc

I Agree When i first read it, i felt he was just pointing out some good info! I also was unaware there were two different sizes :thumb:Could have been written better maybe but hey its a car forum!:D

thanks ya i took a look at his site and thats exactly what i needOUCH rotors $160 each!

these are the old style conventional mounted callipers!

I have an old set of Wilwood with the .80 thick rotors that don't last very long. i picked these up a while ago and they need new rotors.The old rotors measure 13" and are a two piece design. However Wilwoods website and catalog don't have any info on these and are discontinued.Does...

Also make sure you don't have a boost leak or else tuning with be really hard!

stock 7 boltevo 3 intake, FP exhaust mani, fic 650 3" exhaust e3 16G HKS 272 cams, BBK TB, PR FMIC, and meth. running 25 PSIThis setup pulls hard!I thought i read you had a 16g.....why don't you?? they are cheap!

on dyne results i've seen just use blue -40 washer fluid cheap and available, at least in Canada!

what does the low oct map look like can you post a pic. ?

Hey we probably have close to the same set up this is what my timing map look like

i've had a few problems and popped off the TB so many times i am sick of buying new OEM gasket every time.i bought some rubber gasket material traced out the old gasket punched some holes, ( used a old cheap socket the correct size grind the edge sharp and use to punch out the holes)...

Okit doesn't work properly. its acts like it is already grounded before the clutch is press. so it won't rev past 5500 rpm where the ntls is set at.i am going to look at it again tomorrow see what i can come up with.ok so i went out double checked switch i have ground when clutch is...

I thinks you will also notice the fuel is pig rich on the stock maps here is mine no knock 272 cams e316g meth and 94 oct.never seen a dyno yet!trying to get speed density setup

Anyone get this working with a 98 ceddy mod?it seems be activated at 5500 rpm regardless of the clutch pedal position.when clutch is pressed it grounds but doesn't work for me?

Anyone know how to create VE maps with logs? I just need a little guidance :thumb:

yes it will be fine, buy everything here FHSWedge

My 0 knock! old timing maps98 TSI AWD big16G hks272 meth 94octane 25 psi

I stand corrected! :rocks:Well before the holset turbos 1000 was more than enough for most of us!Then again you could always add another row! :aha:

can you find or borrow another cluster? could be wiring issues

1000cc FTWeasy to tune and never upgrade again!

NO cat! :hellyeah:

first things first pop open our ecu and see if you have an eprom.then mail it to ecmlink with 500.00 and bingo! your set!

ya i did it at a gas station a few years back because i had some issues on a long trip! and the bike pump i had just wasn't gonna cut it! :notgood:

yup all its doing is stoping it form sucking! ROFL

5spd swap lol

The stock temp gauge isn't linear so you will get a fairly quick rise to the center mark then it will just shoot up! and by that time its too late!the ecu does show water temps so a scan tool will tell you what the temp is. but your car has two seperate sensors one for the ecu and one for...

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/electrical-tech/429414-aftermarket-fog-lights-help.htmlGood info here

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/305921-how-make-proper-cop-setup.html

Its like crack for your car. Its cheap and if you do any tuning yourself it will keep ya busy for awhile.

+100

I think you need a new tranny sounds like its not all the way in gear

had the same problem once. it was a broken clutch fork!

check for codes mine showed crank sensor when it was, but the water temp sensor didn't pop a light and will also cause a no start.

over torquing the neutral safety switch is the most common mistake. ( I believe) This happened to a few people after new tranny installed.

You really can't go wrong sticking to oem. If your in there i'd toss in some 2g pistons or evo x. ACL bearings, cosmetic HG. you have to make sure the block and head are dead flat to use the mls HG or they will leak.I've ran my stock 7 bolt to 300 000km with an hta68 and a oem hg and studs...

under the hatch where the sides meet the back cover there is an overlap and there is a bulge on the back cover for the wiper the water pools in here then when you lift the hatch it runs down and and soaks everything in your back seat.:ohdamn:

Its probably a loose wire. check the mas air flow sensor wire

Ok so heres is the question which may or not be a dumb question but I cant find an answer. Would a loose almost disonnected wire at the coilpack throw a CEL?yes most likely

Are you saying if the key is in the on position and you hit the remote start button it starts? If the key is out can you hear it click when the button is pressed? Do you have a turbo timer installed?

can you try a stock ecu, this happened to a friend it was either a poor connection to the ecu or the cas so unplug the ecu and plug it back in, or try another ecu or replace the cas.

you have a computer to read codes etc? sounds like it could be a temp sensor problem! but you'd have to know what the computer is seeing in order to check this.

i disconnect mine and it leaks unless you remove it and block it off. the next leak was the fuel pressure regulator, then the j pipe then a lower ic hose then valve cover. i think i was at 15 psi.

+1 oem why do it twice:ohdamn:

Yeah 94 octane and 100% meth and after dyno tuned 398 AWHP