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For some reason I decided to take iff the corner lights. Then the bumper cover. Didn’t really have a good reason, but waiting on parts now for front case, etc., so have to do something, right?
Ended up drilling out a bunch of corroded special shouldered screws. Have to figure out replacements...
Years, miles, and operator each takes its toll. Worn out tranny at 85k. Could be maintenance (fluid, adjustment) but more likely it’s the drivers’ style that accounts for it. This type of car inspires a bit of rowdiness. Mine was the same way. Did my tranny at 95k.
Assuming you adjusted clutch...
Shift gingerly and you wont likely do too much damage. Of course, what’s the point of driving a sporty car like this if you have to baby the shifts. I sent mine in to a reputable shop (TRE) and I think it was between $2 and $3k. I think I priced parts for a full rebuild kit, and was about...
Yes, I'd echo the multimeter. For a hobby car these still have a lot of electrical parts. You can get a reasonable DMM and that should get you through most stuff.
I only use a basic set of wrenches and sockets, but line wrenches are crucial to not destroying fittings on pressure lines (brake...
After further comparison it turns out the slide pins from my 90 single piston calipers are slight smaller diameter than the twin piston caliper uses. Looks like later 91+ pins would work. Now on hold as I get some proper replacements.
Guess I’ll switch back to the front case project again.
I agree on hoses. At this point finding debris I’d be concerned of what might be inside the calipers. Consider replacing the hoses or at least disconnecting at the calipers and flushing with a full reservoir or two of fluid. I’d do all four corners, since you don’t know where the debris came...
Those calipers look a lot like the 1G; 92.5+ ones. The way the brake lines connect is for a flare and not a banjo. (2G was banjo). That would actually make them more rare. perhaps other members can confirm. Rebuild kit & pistons are same as 2G, I believe. Lines are for 1G.
I should be removing the old front case gasket crud from the block so that I can start reassembling that, but it seemed more fun to go ahead with my 92.5+ twin piston brake upgrade. Got the driver’s side together in a jiffy. The the pass side wouldn’t quite slide over the rotor. Seemed like I...
That weld looks permanent. Slop in the arm is no longer relevant. I assume you got a bronze bushing for that end of the shaft?
You asked about the correct alignment to weld it. Obviously this answer is too late for you, but for posterity I’d suggest that twisting it as much CCW when viewed from...
Welcome back to dsm. Nice score. How many miles? What’s the backstory on this find?
Never seen a 1ga in candy apple. Gives it a more classic look. Leather seats? Those cheese slicer wheels have become so rare now, they’re back in style. Let’s get some more pics of this “before” state, so we can...
I dealt with both issues in the course of replacing nearly everything in my transmission system. I believe they are two different issues.
The longer mc rod compensates for wear in the pedal shaft to clutch lever joint. Welding in the correct position is one fix, and a longer rod is another. Is...
That’s an interesting perspective for dsm cars, since modding was a very active process when these cars were in their heyday. Still is on this site, although myself and many others are looking now towards more typical restoration, and restoration-plus, which is kind of like restomods.
To me...
Make sure you keep those cobra center caps on it. Those wheels look pretty good to me. I'd imagine they're high quality, since the cobra package is not cheap.
I would not have guessed that either of those could be the issue. Shouldn’t be making any boost at idle. Not sure how a leak in the exhaust would factor in to poor idle.
Glad it worked out, though, for whatever the cause.
Those white trim fasteners are still sold new. Try Auveco item 19334, for instance. I bought some just a couple years ago. Also, for you're bolts, have you tried a good soak in Evaporust? Does wonders to remove corrosion and discoloration, and return the finish to like new, sometimes. I wouldn't...
I was close. The range is 3 ohm to 110 ohm. The key is that it varies smoothly between them as the arm is swept through its range. It’s essentially a winding of wire with a needle that drags across the windings. Eventually many windings become one continuous slab, and have only one single...
Its a simple variable resistor. Just use an ohm meter. I can’t recall the range off-hand. Its in the FSM. Somthing like 5 empty to 110 full ohms, but that might be a bit off. It should change smoothly with the sweep of the float arm.
You’ve likely also found vfaq.com, but if not, a very handy and concise body of info, especially 1g. 90’s have some quirks, but overall these cars have impressive engineering. My other tip is read the classifieds every day if you can. Rare parts come up, and then it might be a year before...
I’d recommend something that uses prestige to sell when new. Think lexus, audi, or yes, bmw. Their resale drops much more quickly than utility cars (toyota, Subaru) because the utility stays strong after prestige has worn off. For instance, a 2006 lexus is300 is now worth around $4-5k, but has...
FYI, the driver's side OEM-style mount is now a rarity. I watched them go from $35 to $150 to not available at all in the span of 6 months. I'm sure there must be some out there somewhere, but the manufacturers have stopped making them. I believe, though I'm not certain, that you can take one...
I’d be surprised if there is a simple answer to this. You’re probably referring to the stock rubber isolators, and not the metal brackets. Those do flex more than poly inserts, and some people swap to poly even with modest power, for the perceived improvement in throttle response. I have no...
Bought these a while back from another member. OEM blue top injectors. Finally got around to sending them to the pros for service. Good thing because they were all stuck. All better now.
Trying to decide when to swap them out for the originals in my car, and see what difference it makes. When I...
Nothing says F&F tuner car like nitrous. Seems like the critical path is supplying enough fuel to go with. I’m sure someone has figured it out and you can find out all about it on this site. Throw on some more pics of the car. How’s it running so far?
I have a few broken ones I can send you. I had to get a black OEM one because the silver is NLA, and even the black is around $100, depending on seller. The plastic likes to crack around the bolt sleeve. The clear, aftermarket ones are probably a decent option at this point, though I'm...
When I did my first T-belt, and changed out all the accessory belts, they would squeal as things warmed up. I think I mostly traced it to alt & ps belts needed tightening. It's a bummer that a belt tension gauge is a pretty pricey item for the infrequent use it gets.
Not saying this is what...
I did install a new Denso unit in my car. Everything else is stock. There is a rubber “foot” that goes between the metal hanger arm and the pump, and the Denso kit does not include a new one. Some brands appear to. I was not able to find that part alone anywhere. I reused my old one, and it...
Wow, what a journey! Foreign cars form that era look so small on the road today. I like how you’ve modified the engine to make great documented power on pump gas with a reasonable boost level. Always looks funny to see an 4g in north/south orientation.
Welcome to the forum. Looking forward to...
I’m curious on what often fails on your Hondas? I would presume head gasket, if the block and heads were distorting from the stress of boost.I’ve seen a chilly reception here when someone brings up using a honda motor in a dsm. Dare I say hostile. I think you have won everyone over by going...
Ouch! Rust on the unibody is something that can’t simply be replaced like other parts. So not to jump past your current concerns, but it seems like you need to assess all the frame rust in total to understand just how big a mess this is. At least at a scoping level. Particularly at structural...
I've purchased rebuilt front ones from CVJ in Denver. They only take OEM cores, and sell rebuilt OEM units. Been happy with those. My boots had sheared, and the joints were junk when I returned them. I presume they got new bearings and what not and are now serving some new owner just fine. Maybe...
If the boots haven’t yet failed then the joints may be fine. Replacing the boots could keep them in good order for some time. Getting the right boots, clamps, and grease is obviously key. Looks like RTM offers them. Maybe others as well. It makes sense that the joint can outlast the boot...
As I started reading I thought of the screwdriver in the balance-checking-hole. Romeen already mentioned that, but I thought since OP hasn’t replied about it, I’d throw my bet down too.just the same kind of thing I would do. Ya get all the hard stuff right but forget the trivial part.
You’re seriously getting after it! Lots of similarities with work on my car, but I’ve been chipping away for 3 years and only got half as far. Had TRE do all my gears, too. Go for the bead blast on the cases, very sweet.
There is a freelancer making Stainless fuel necks, though a bit pricey...
Sounds similar to masonite, which is about what the original is made from. Kind if a sturdier version of cardboard.
The “luggage room” as it’s called in the factory parts manual, was all removed for lightness (presumably, for a total of practically nothing pounds) by a previous owner in many...
Well it turned out good. I have welded a bit, and just bought my own first mig, a little 90amp from Eastwood that seems fine for body work. Fixing those beams is way down on my list for the gsx. I’m planning on some patch panels on my dodge, which are pretty stout. Hammers don’t have much effect...
Nice. Mine has it on both sides, bit not at the end like yours. More midway. I thought if I was really gung-ho, I would cut the floor above it and try to hammer/ press it back in shape. Then weld the floor back over. It would be hidden by carpet and seats.
What led you to decide on your method?
I kept my donut and carpeted the floor around it. Looks decent when there’s no other clutter.
If I was attempting what you described, I might use some stacked layers of rigid “blue board” insulation, with holes cut to fit the hump. Each layer with a smaller hole. Each layer is 2”, so might need...
mechanical might not be a good fit for what you’re describing. A lot of ME grads go on to HVAC and power generation careers. You might be better served by materials science, mechanics of materials, and that sort of study. As others have pointed out, I can’t think of any typical university course...
I pulled my front cover to chase down an oil leak, and did find my cam seals were at least part of the problem. The rubber lip had essentially hardened into plastic, and part of it had cracked away.
You’d be wise to try the valve cover for cracks and the gasket first, because basically anything...
Looks like you’ve circled the water pump, which can’t leak oil. Must be something up above it leaking down onto it. Could be cam seal or valve cover gasket.
You can take the upper timing cover off and see those areas much better. You can even run and drive the car with it removed for a short...
There is a point where lively discussion and razzing crosses into hostility and public shaming. It’s better to state what you know or think rather than what someone else doesn’t know. Ujoints are getting scarce as are lots of parts. We need to find ways to address these issues if our hobby with...
Informative and colorful discussion. It brings up a point that I have wondered about for some time. Why do ujoints use needle bearings at all. Sounds like some don’t, from what bastarddsm alluded to. Under the typical few degrees of articulation (even less in the essentially fixed dsm prop...
Yeah, that makes sense too. Do cranks and cams receive that treatment? I assume trans gears and r&p sets must, for their high load pressures. Sounds like machining down u-joints from larger ones would take a lot of processing.
Yes, I thought about your last point after I posted that. It’s not only a matter of machining the part, but also would need to polish it to a very smooth finish to act as a bearing surface. I suppose that’s not too different from what some shops do with cranks and cams, but a much smaller...
I was imagining getting them machined from billet, and not a new forging. I’m not knowledgeable enough about the materials to say it would work or not. Entirely new shafts with everything upgraded is certainly one option, and after rebuilding my entire driveshaft with oem, the price is not all...