Mine look awful and I'd like top slap a coat of flat black paint on them, but I'm not sure how to get them off (not the blades, but the whole wiper assembly). If anyone knows how to do this I'd appreciate it if they shared their insights so that I don't have to lay towels all over the car and do...

I dug up some old threads in which it was recommened to turn the wheels left and right to drain the rack following a power steering system removal and I wanted first hand impressions of how difficult the car is to drive at low speed without power steering.Once again, I'm looking for people...

I dug up some old threads in which it was recommened to turn the wheels left and right to drain the rack following a power steering system removal and I wanted first hand impressions of how difficult the car is to drive at low speed without power steering.Once again, I'm looking for people...

I dug up some old threads in which it was recommened to turn the wheels left and right to drain the rack following a power steering system removal and I wanted first hand impressions of how difficult the car is to drive at low speed without power steering.Once again, I'm looking for people...

Slightly tuned should take one range colder not hotter. The hotter plug will have a natural tendency to initiate knock sooner. This is a general rule although I've run stock heat range plugs into the 400 WHP range. I've owned a mildy tuned 420A and stock heat range was fine although I'd...

Might not be a bad idea to perform a boost leak test as well...

My 50 trim at 27 psi was whisper quiet compared to the whine of a 16G. It's not an issue in the least and doesn't have anything to do with performance. Consider that moving air through a larger opening will also dull sound somewhat.Don't worry about it.

The first step is to check knock sensor torque as it should be at 17 lb/ft. Anything more than that will make the sensor much more sensitive to mechanical noises. Second, make sure that there are no frayed wires and even considering changing the sensor entirely. As a third measure, you can add...

Looking great Dan-O and it appears that you have the makings of a real street beast. I'll keep the link you sent me and check in on it from time to time.Love ya bro!A.

Minimum is 4.10 for an auto. The 4.30's are perfect for a Cobra where you can rev to around 7K but will also work well on a 4.6 2V.

Check the knock sensor for correct torque. If it's overtightened it'll give false knock readings. Correct spec is 17 lb/ft. Also consider swapping in a known working ECU from a friend's car if you can to make sure that it doesn't have something to do with the ECU fuel drivers.I'd also check...

If you have the coin to spend on a new crank, go ahead since you're getting a fresh piece with less potential for problems. I didn't and picked up a reman SBR crank which has worked perfectly thus far. Like anything else, the machining work on a cut crank is critical to ensuring that everything...

All the best to you in your new endeavors. Hopefully you'll have time to once again resume that which you're so great at. In the meantime all of us will remember you fondly and hope that you'll check in from time to time.It won't be the same without you.

If you pull a plug and the knock stops, that generally points to a rod knock issue since you're taking the load off of the piston. What I find strange is that you have no shavings in the pan. You might also have a spun balance shaft bearing knocking around if you still have the b-shafts...

The only way to tell is to hook up a logger and find out for sure.

Thanks for pointing me here Jason.Jeff's statement about retaining an AFC applies to his base compensation chips which maintain stock A/F and stock timing ratios. If you choose a custom tune, the AFC is no longer necessary. Even on a race gas tune it's more prudent to have a secondary chip...

Blowby is used to describe internal sealing issues (i.e. piston rings) not an exhaust leak. For the record, an exhaust leak before the turbo will hurt spool and play hell with the fuel trims since it occurs in such close proximity to the O2 housing.Pull the manifold and either extract the...

I play it all the time. While not as slick as say NFSMW or Carbon, there's much more to it and it's not something you can finish quickly. The benefit is that you're driving on a GPS mapped island (Oahu) which is very unique from any other racing game.I'd strongly recommend it.

Insert Sean Connery voice here:"I'm still waiting to be impressed".

Rog,Dejon makes a 1G pipe for a 2G MAF. I can't hot link to the page but they're readily available and combine the best of both setups. IKt's listed under the 1G Intake pipe section as the CIP 1gS or CIP 1gR.Cheers,Andy

Jeez, OEM gaskets can hold up to 600 WHP with a set of ARP's and a good tune. I really don't see what all of the fuss is with fancy head gaskets when the Mitsu composite is forgiving and seals like a champ.Just my .02Andy

I'm very partial to the second one or third one. Really any of them look good. Generally going with your first instinct is always the best option and since you have a white car any of them will match.Eeny meeny miney mo...Andy

That sounds pretty normal for a 264/272 combination but the best way is to physically check the cam gears with cylinder 1 at TDC. Yan can pull all four plugs to make rotating the crank pulley easier when you do this. Also, how many inches of vacuum do you pull at idle?I personally think you...

Since Jtoby knows ALL about suspension, wheels and tires, you may want to shoot him a PM and see if the wheels can possibly be machined on the centerbore. I don't know enough to say yes or no but he would certainly know.Don't give up just yet.

Yup, 2G MAF is fine and can handle big power before overrun. You can find some great filters at reasonable prices here as well:http://www.verociousmotorsports.comHave fun,Andy

First things first. Please use complete sentences and not one huge run-on since that's a pain to read.I'd recommend that you pull the driver's side wheel and inner splash guard to inspect the crank pulley (harmonic balancer). If this has separated it will beat against the lower timing cover...

I always miss that part...Thanks Jtoby.

Go to Home Depot and ask for the carbide bit made specifically for the Dremel. It looks like a small drill attachment and it's made for the Dremel and Dremel XPR. I just did this a month ago and it worked out very well. I recommend some shaping stones to smooth everything out when you're done or...

How about putting an FPR on the 255 so it doesn't overrun the stock FPR for starters. Next, please update your profile since that lists a 20G and not the T25 you say you're running now. Lest I forget, 780's on an AFC as your only tuning device is...hell I don't even want to go there.

You can use those since the offset and bolt pattern are OK, but you won't be able to go past a 215 width tire on them since they're only 6.5" wide. But yes, they should fit if your bolt pattern info and offset numbers are accurate.

Now that's haulin' the mail. Very nice.

Blowing smoke at idle sounds more like valve stem seals than anything else.I'd pull the downpipe and LICP to check for oil buildup. If you don't find any I would be hard pressed to blame the turbo. A leakdown test would be a good idea once you've checked the above items.Just for reference...

Nice job Zach. That looked pretty good to me.I'll have to disagree slightly with Jason on injector sizing though. I don't have enough airflow to require 1600cc injectors so there's no need for me to ever run them. I would think that a great middle of the road application that will allow for...

If the flapper isn't moving by hand I don't think it would be a big problem but you could tighten up a bit more and richen up to compensate for the increase in boost.While you may have boost leaks and you should definitely test for them, if you did the airflow counts would be inflated since...

Mine slid into the same spot and if you bend the bracket just right, you can still use one bolt on the driver's side to hold it in.

When you learn to compose complete and legible sentences, I'd be happy to help you with your tuning issues.

In looking at your pics, I don't see any problem with the intake connections. f you don't drive on dirt roads you could always pull the filter and run without it for a couple of pulls to see if anything's different. Your TPS readings are also fine and I was really hoping that was the problem...

Charlie,Good job in tracking down and figuring out your problem. Here's a brief guide on setting idle with the BISS screw:http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BISS-2G.htmlLet me know how it works out, k?

Yes it does, but the 1G runs a higher timing map than the 2G due to lower compression and transitions to the high load map above 2.06 g/rev instead of 2.1. It also finishes up around 23 degrees of timing or thereabouts.

When you go WOT and the ECU transitions into open loop, it senses more airflow and depending how much it sees, it transfers to a higher load map which drops the timing down and then slowly ramps it up to peak timing in the absence of knock.You're correct though about your assumption of how a...

While the airflow is still low, I'm now concerned about your timing. There's a bit of knock from 6200-6800 but what has me a bit worried is how low it is. Unless you have forged internals I wouldn't allow timing to go below 14 degrees on cast parts since the heat can cause damage.Your boost...

Yup, that's the one I use (created by Kevin Jewer) and it pegged my fuel issue with 650's right on so I'd consider it pretty accurate.

You're not getting this. You need to take fuel away NOT add it. Since the chip compensates for the injectors, you can set the AFC to zero all the way across and it will take the base air/fuel ratio to stock targets (9.5:1). Since that's better but nowhere near optimal, you can start subtracting...

For the front and rear, yes. The sides obviously take a bit more work:http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=151086781#post151086781

You could always fill the front and rear with 3M Window Weld and call it a day. It's better than the small inserts.

Psst: Maybe something about my potato launcher being more extreme...

Nope, that's right. Only the driver and passenger side inserts replace the entire stock mount (large inserts). The front and rear simply reinforce the existing mounts (small inserts).

A boost leak on a 2G MAF will inflate your airflow numbers since all leaks would happen after it meters the incoming air. Those numbers do seem somewhat weak.Are you tuning with a wideband to monitor A/F or are you just going as far as you can and looking for knock?

From the front, nothing gives mine away (no FMIC). From the back all of the badging is gone so most people assume it's an N/T until they hear the cams at idle.I say there Charlie, is that a potato launcher or an exhaust? Sorry pal, couldn't resist.

I tried a little experiment today to see how much the MSD does for spark plug gap and the results were pretty much what I anticipated.At 27 psi and a plug gap of .032 it misfired badly at WOT in second and third. The same misfires continued until I reduced plug gap to .028 in increments of...