Yes and no. 35R comp wheel. T04S comp cover. T3 stage III 76 trim T31 turbine wheel. BB center but not the garrett 35R type. Bolt-on hotside that they claim is .63AR but flows more like a 7cm.

They barely clear the strut spring perches in the front - would be fine with coilovers. Had to clearance the trailing arms in the rear a little.

As stated above, a 255/40 on a 17 x 9 +35 to 45 is about the most you'd want to run on a 1G. I've got 17x8 +48 wheels with 245/40s that fit great on my car.

I've got a drawer full of spare 10mm sockets. Beat that.

On race gas, that extra timing really woke these cars up back in the day. We ran 11.0 @ 126 on a VPC, 550s, 20g, 272s, and no wideband. Stock 1G 7 bolt, head and intake manifold. Just plain old C16, leaned out, and 25+ degrees of timing at 30 psi. On pump, different story. You're not running...

They cancel out because you're telling the ECU that it's seeing less airflow, which makes it deliver less fuel. The bigger injectors cancel this by flowing more at the same duty cycle. The side effect, however, is that now the ECU is on a lower load table with more timing. May be a good thing on...

It's still together, the drivetrain is going into my friend's car but he's not the type to make much progress so I may dig it out again. I'd guesstimate it at around 2100 lbs without me. I'd love to get into tubular subframes, CF body parts, etc to get the weight down more but I don't have the...

That would defeat the point

Watch the video, he does some things the hard way but it answers everything. Rears are easier than fronts, you don't need to press the bearings out, they just tap right out.

It's almost as if you didn't actually watch the video you posted above ;)

Yes, if you unbolt the nut that holds the axle cup on, you can just tap the axles out pretty easily. I disassembled to do all urethane bushings and toe elim (you can see both in the pic).

You don't need to remove the hubs/bearings to get the axles out of the rear of a 1G. There are 3 or 4 bolt axle cups, you just unbolt the axle flange from the cup flange.

The car actually made 479/443 that day and would've easily cracked 500whp if I had more time ( it wasn't a tuning session, just a 3 pulls for fun dyno day). If anyone remembers Wendy's FWD build (Girlieracr4G63), she had an S258 bolt-on with a built engine and made 545 whp.

Definitely not a 3065, which used the GT3582R comp wheel. You can identify those by the hex nut shaped casting at the inducer side of the wheel. It's not anything HTA/HTZ because they're 7 blade and you can easily tell the difference between billet wheels and cast. This also has a .60AR hotside...

V3 software and cable will work with V2 on a 1G, you just have to select the V2 chip in the "configure connection" settings.

Just use small pliers or vise grips from the sides of the screw head

Plain old big 16g. FP used to stamp their logo onto turbos they sold/ported/rebuilt long before casting their own parts.

Yes, if you have factory dual piston calipers you just need the brackets and rotors. Less prone to warp, less fade with repeated stops, and the rotor design is different so they're negligibly heavier than stock rotors.

No, there are no drop-in rear options for a 1G that retain the parking brake. And only a few kits if you were ok with eliminating it.

Sorry, thought since you had 2G wheels it was a 2G car. Yes, for an early 1G, you'll want any 92.5-up AWD brake caliper which will bolt right onto the outlander bracket. Ideally you want to stay with 1G calipers as the 2G and non-DSM ones have different attachments for the lines (inverted flare...

I run 17 x 8 +48 wheels with 245/40 tires and they're nice and flush

Is your car AWD? If so, you use your existing calipers and just change the brackets. I run the Outlander brakes with my 15" slicks and they clear, and they'll clear some of the OEM 16" wheels with plenty of room, but it depends on the spoke design, width, offset, etc.

They're VERY close but do clear on 1GA Talon wheels. You should be ok, but may want to get one bracket and try it out first (assuming you already have 2 piston calipers).

I ran a couple different ones on my old car. First was an OEM Syclone IC that I had modified. 5 gallon fuel cell in the trunk, OEM Ford Lightning pump and heat exchanger. Worked ok at lower power, but I ended up changing to a Bell core which worked great. No blocking the radiator, can keep AC...

I've never had an issue using the stock hard lines on any MHI frame bolt-on. I've even got one on my HTA76 which is a Garrett CHRA with a DSM hotside.

It came with the car, pretty sure it was fabricated by the previous owner.

My car has a stock master with a booster delete and STM scalloped front brakes. The car stops great.

What's the thickness? The OG big SMICs looked WAY thicker.

Still here wasting time on these cars :talon:

Definitely not. They're casting their own. Cap, AN ports, area where the bolt holes are... Nice step between a stocker and the FF billet option. If they offered it without the logo it'd be way more appealing though.

Finally ran the car today. First pass off the trailer, went 10.94 @ 127. New personal best ET and MPH, first time running 10s. Set the 14b AWD MPH record. they hot lapped us and on the burnout before the 2nd pass it popped a coolant line, parked it for the day. May try to get it back out before...

Finally ran the car today. First pass off the trailer, went 10.94 @ 127. New personal best ET and MPH, first time running 10s. Set the 14b AWD ET and MPH record. they hot lapped us and on the burnout before the 2nd pass it popped a coolant line, parked it for the day. May try to get it back out...

My outlanders clear 15" Drag DR17s barely

Would be interested for a 1G

They're out there and well worth waiting for over this one. There have been several that popped up recently. Here are a couple (still not 100% original but easier to put back to correct)...

Aftermarket sunroof kills it, not to mention the repaint wasn't done correctly - wing should be matte black. A true DSMer who wants one to collect would hold out for a more original car.

If it's really JB and an 82HTZ, it's a Black (and nothing like a 16g other than they're bolt bolt-ons using MHI bearing housings)http://www.forcedperformance.net/fp-black-for-dsm.html

The allure of a car has for decades been "sexy" curves/lines, flashy paint (makeup), etc. Not unreasonable for the stereotypical male to be "attracted" to his car, always the running joke that a guy loves his car more than his gf/wife, spends more time and money on "her", she'd never cheat or...

We have very different ideas of what's considered very aggressive ;)

Agreed. My first car was a '93 AWD Talon 5spd, tan leather, no sunroof. When I got it, there were still plenty of nice ones around, but by '07 I was frequently told it was the cleanest DSM they'd ever seen by locals. I always refused to gut the car or do a cage, it was always a street car. I...

I was into V8s in the 90s, had a few Mustangs. A friend was into GNs and he eventually got a Typhoon which turned me on to the potential of an AWD launch and turbo power. I'd always liked the 1GB Talon looks, more classy and sporty than the typical Honda/Sentra SE-R econobox look. And the...

You don't need a block-off or bypass plate. You can pop the freeze plug out and turn the FIAV in until it's closed, then re-install the freeze plug with some fast dry/hard set sealant.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/the-rebirth-of-mr-peepers-twin-scroll-t3.514495/

Shocked that the comp wheel was even usable. OPs vid looked like it made contact.

Yes, to clarify, my comments about the failures in the bolt-on housing were specific to the HX40, not the 35.I've also seen my share of GT35R turbine wheels melting the tips in the same way in the FP35 housing. Something the new G series turbine wheels seem to have improved finally (not that...

If you're only making 380whp on a 20g you're doing something VERY wrong. A small 16g can do that. And something larger TD05H turbine wheel is needed for a 20g to max out without insane pressure ratios. I've run them with a heavily clipped 05H and an 06H wheel, I'd love to try one in a 6SL2...

http://projectzerog.com

I've experienced the same. Previous build had a PTT and it was a nightmare. Impossible to street drive smoothly, just an on/off switch. We even tried a 2g accumulator to dampen it, which barely made a difference. Current race car has a QM with the gear drive discs and it is night and day better...

If you jumped the actuator to the boost source on the j pipe and it's still overboosting (which you can't confirm unless you throw in a real boost gauge), then it's possible that the wastegate flapper is stuck shut. Can you put compressed air to the actuator and see if the arm swings open freely?

Post pics of the MAF (and try swapping it if you can find another unmodded one). You can also pull the lower honeycomb which was the old trick for raising the fuel cut threshold, though I'd probably figure out what changed first. You need to get a proper boost gauge to see what your actual boost...