Pulling the trans is a bit of work if you’ve never done it before. If you do pull it tho I recommend leaving the front spindle and axel all together and pulling them as one per side. and opening the trans I honestly wouldn’t recommend unless you have a fair amount of mechanical knowledge

Good luck my friend. If you find a good seal somewhere you better snatch it up. They’re near non existent.

well I wound up swapping the cas out with the old one that threw a code on me a while back and the car finally started and ran.

Here this. Still dies. I need a confirmation on the blue wire to be grounded to firewall. Is it a plug? Found 2, one blue, One black and side by side just above my heater core lines.

I just made a quick video of wha it’s doing. Also cut the wire on existing black box. About to locate a pin I can use from scrap wire pile and get it done.

If I had base line values for all of the variables I could get them back in order.

Yes. I do have the cas on the head. And I agree with you about the board and wire. I considered cutting it and just adding the pin. It’s not so difficult. And if you need it can be taken back out. 🤷🏻‍♂️ Just how my brain works. Idk about others. Here’s the second black box. I did try to flash...

Yeah, I do.

The wire you see is the phono plug that goes to the open port. someone decided to solder the wire directly to the ecu rather than add the pin on #79 I believe on the ecu harness.It is not on the secondary black box. Only the one with the open port.The car is a spyder gst. Was all factory...

This is my factory ecu for the car.

Yes my stock ecu is the factory unit for the car. It’s a metal cased unit. The black box is out of a 98 gst or gsx I believe. Added a pic to reference seeing as how Im just scratching the surface of the tuning realm.

Ok I have a 97 Spyder GST that I’m slowly building and daily the car. I’ve scoured the forum and web plus read god knows how much but I cannot find anything that solves my specific issue.I’ve already got ceddy mods and have the basics of the ecu flash. Can anyone tell me why whenever I swap to...

I’m currently having issues with my 97 spyder gst and openport 2.0. The black box that I got with the openport has the plug soldered on the ecu that goes to the openport. Eliminating having to add the pin to the harness. My problem is the car will NOT stay running more than 3 sec with the...

Man, this just saved me from making permanent decisions in temporary shituations… I’ll def know for sure when I make it back home. Decided to give it a break from being worked on A cpl days. Lol. Now I just need someone to roughly detail the values of everything once, maybe twice, maybe. But I...

Pretty sure I chose clear after we cleared up the mishap with my original payment

Wanting to make sure I get clear anodized and not black. Thanks

Sadly enough nothing seems to be simple with this lil devil. Lol

My tails are solid red 😬 may I also add I purchased these sequential module flasher boxes from eBay. My issue with them is that they require 12v power source to activate and it’ll flash sequential. Our lights operate on a switched negative source for the flasher/turn signals. Therefore rendering...

I know very little, just enough to get by, about electrical but I been wanting to make my factory tails flash sequential… any ideas on that.

That explains it all… 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Every time I work on something on my car I always say how Id like to meet the engineers who designed these cars. I just wanna shake his hand one time…. Bc ima rip his arm off and beat em to death with it! 🤷🏻‍♂️😂🤣💯Awesome. thanks bro

When do you expect to start shipping out? just curious. I’m in no rush to fight that bolt behind the window again. Twice.

how the hell can I make this to where when I turn my signal on the signal wire is 12v constant? I get that when I cut the signal wire on each side that I’ll need to tap another brake signal wire from the center. But how can I make the signals stay 12v when activated? Anyone got anything on this...

Paid in full anodized clear.

I’m in! Lmk what the price is and where to send payment please

Yeah... so I’m currently in the market for a full set of valves and springs if you know anyone.

Yeah The timing belt was unharmed but I’m pretty sure I’ve got bent valves. And multiple at that

Also just learned that I’ve got zero compression on #1

Before it broke the belt on me yes I could roll it easily by hand although that is not the case anymore.

Haven’t done the balance shaft delete. And the bushing is what’s rubbing you can see the wear marks on it. Pics attached

The gear that’s rubbing the case is the balance shaft not the oil pump. That was my mistake guys. Sorry about that

Ok so just rebuilt my engine and for whatever reason the bushing for my oil pump gear is rubbing on the front cover. Anyone have any clue as to what is causing this and how to fix it? It wasn’t rubbing when I first put everything back together.

I originally wasn’t going to tear it all down again but it’s obvious at this point that is the only way it’s going to get fixed. Even if it is just broken pressure plate it doesn’t change the fact that the trans has to come out in order to be repaired. And since I’m pulling it out again I may as...

Thought about that also. My pops says it could possibly be broken pressure plate allowing the throw out bearing to not catch properly. Getting an act 2600 clutch kit in the next few days so I’ll swap the fork and throw out while it’s down. Looks like the only way I’ll know for sure what’s going...

Sorry about the confusion there. When I press the clutch it isn’t engaging. It won’t go into gear when the car is running.

Ever since I replaced my manual trans in my 2g it’s been working beautifully. Zero issues. For whatever reason last night as I was heading to a friends house and getting off the interstate my clutch suddenly won’t disengage when I push the pedal down. Pedal feels good and the slave is working...

Got the trans out and opened up and immediately found my problem. That’s a lot of work and hassle for a lil ole pin to be slid outta place. But she’s fixed and currently going back in. Thanks everyone for your input and advice. Hope my experience can help someone else in the future.

Thanks. A buddy of mine sent me a pic of it. And after checking it out mine are still in place as they should be.

Wym the “select shoe”?? I’ve disconnected both cables and tried repeatedly to get it into any of the 3 gears by hand and it won’t go or even try to go into gear.

Yes all of the clips are/were in place and straight. I have disconnected everything and manually engaged the gears 1/3/5 when attempting to engage 2/4/R it’s like the selector is hitting a wall. It won’t even try to go into that gear set. There’s is absolutely nothing anywhere near being in the...

So I have checked and double checked ALL linkage connections from the shifter out to the trans. Everything is straight, tight and moves freely as it should. I suddenly lost 2 4 R gears while in traffic on Friday the 13th, go figure. I’ve also had someone else look over everything and came to the...

Currently having the same problem with 2 4 R. Went from shifting fine to not going into 2 4 R at all.

It was a boost leak. Found it today. Top line on intercooler clamp was loose. Thx