I can't give you any definite ways of testing your cas, but I will say there was a time I washed under my hood and my cas got wet. It did the same thing. Ran one day but not the next. This was on a 2G with a 1G green top cas, but it, at least on 2gs, also controls the fuel pump and that's how I...

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/sleeper-avenger.487978/Check out that thread. It's possible and has been done. But it's not a bolt on project.

Are you actually losing coolant or it's just not returning to the level that you want it to?In my truck I run two inches below the upper tank top, any higher and it blows out the overflow and settles itself back to where it wants to be. Every design is different though. I have no experience...

One end of that shaft rides in the t case, the other rides in the center diff viscous coupler. The only thing that holds that shaft in place is a single ball bearing that rides in a groove between that shaft and the center diff. It's held in place by the viscous coupler itself when you slide it...

I've had that issue on every handle I've ever replaced. The trick is to bend the tang that connects to the rod on the handle itself. You have to be careful as it's easy to break the handle. Look at the metal tang where the rod connects on the handle. It's kind of an L shape. Put some vice grips...

I wouldn't run it. Maybe see if some place like Delta can fix it. Probably a new cam would be the cheapest option though

Never seen those before, interesting watches!

Most gaskets are slightly oversized to begin with. It's fine

🍿🍿🍿 ... Man this is gonna be good

Make sure it's mounted correctly and also make sure it's got a full 12v to it at ALL times. However I will say that I've been through easily 10-12 sensors in the last 4 years or so maybe more between my gsx and my truck both running lc2s. Thank god for warranties haha. Gsx had the sensor about...

I know it's frowned upon but just throwing it out there ... I have the rear knuckles, wheel bearings, and backing plates from a 97 gst that I do not need or want ... Everything's in good shape. Pm me if you're interested.

Actually they're the same arm with different bushings. So you could always get some poly bushings or just make a spacer like stated

Most likely a core issue however also make sure the air door is moving all the way to the correct location. Mine heater core box had gotten kicked I'm guessing and it split the box and the piece sticking up stopped the door from moving all the way to the correct position.

As long as it's not synthetic. Only break in it really needs is to seat the rings. Good luck

I second IPT

Assuming 2g ... Evo swapping is your best bet. Look up complete evo motor tranny combos on eBay for a price idea. Then try and track down the awd swap parts as in rear subframe and knuckles and gas tank etc. Plus the appropriate t case and diff to match your gearing. That raises your price alot...

That's so minor. Being aluminum I would heat it before the hammer and wood trick. But that should bend back pretty easy either way

Building a new engine for this this winter and doing a bunch of pump work as well as hopefully some new seat covers. God damn expensive hobbies haha

Sorry for the delay man been out of town. I can't see super good in your picture but yea I would just weld the crack on the outside of the fixture. Basically like they originally welded it but you'd be welding over top of their weld. That shouldn't see that much stress so I'm thinking it might...

That splatter doesn't look factory. Hard to say from the pictures but to me it looks like the stick itself has been rewelded. But for the piece you're talking about, just weld that sucker up. A bead right around the original circle. Or if you can't weld, take it some place. That shouldn't be too...

Aren't they the same plug? I switched from a green to black and I didn't change anything. In fact the green ran better until I got link.I could be wrong on the wiring as it's been a few years but I know I didn't change plugs

I don't think I have any pictures but ... I used the metal bracket that it's already attached to and bolted it vertical with the bracket facing up and the cover facing towards the rear of the car. I used a bolt hole that has a nut already welded on it. I think the hole is where one of the stock...

Smaller battery mounted lower or just move it to the trunk. If you have a fmic you can mount your fuse box underneath the inner fender. Just make sure you water proof it a bit. I had mine sleeved with an inner tube. If you're looking into down sizing your radiator look into a golf mk3 radiator...

Depending on what waste gate setup you have, you can put a very low psi spring in it or adjust the actuator to a low setting if it's capable of adjustment. Like already stated, keep your foot out of it and don't rev it out to keep the turbo from pushing too much air.

Should have 5 and 6. One for each side. It's a brace to help strengthen the lower control arm mount. Fab one up or have someone fab one for you. Wouldn't be too hard to make. Finding one by itself like already said will probably be tough

If you're referring to the rear roll stop ... I don't remember what size the bolts were but I made sleeves to go in the mount as the bolts were considerably smaller then the holes drilled in the mount itself. Before I did that the bolts would come loose.

Yes you can mount the PTU wherever you want

Precision 398 .. good cheap replacement for a daily. Most O'Reily's have them in stock. Running them in my talon daily and also in my gsx with an hx35 and 275s. After seeing the early evo vs gvr4 comparison pictures, I'm guessing these are probably the smaller trunnion joints. Got about 20,000...

Haha you guys got good eyes! But yep that's an old Pennzoil bottle. Free and works just fine for now until I find something fancy. See that kinda stuff all the time on ratrods. Kinda what gave me the idea. Easy to drain too!!

4" intake pipe welded up and wrapped and routed through the fender. Cheap filter for now. Just need to finish tuning it and finally give it that super deep cleaning that it desperately needs haha

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Gotcha, well I don't have any input there. That depends alot on how much wiring it would need redone and the shop you take it too. I can tell you I've seen a few complete aftermarket engine harnesses on the internet for around 1000-1200 but that's the only input I have on that.

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Check out Miller Imports and Performance Part out. Even if they don't have the harnesses in stock, it'll give you an idea on price.https://performancepartout.com/ http://kannapolisautoparts.com/Apparently Miller changed their name ..

This is one of those things that the answer is yes, anything is possible but depends on how much fab work you wanna do and how much money you wanna spend. People have swapped in v8s so ...

My 97 gst had a 14b on it and a different pump, no idea what it was but it was that way when I got it and stayed that way for years. stock boost psi. Zero problems

What Steve said is true. Line at the pump doesn't spin so gotta disconnect it under the car first. SucksOh also, make sure you use good line wrench's, the line out of the sending unit is easily stripped and most are fairly fragile with the age of them now

Check out the vendors like stm, extremepsi, rtm or whatever it is that I can never remember in Canada, etc ... I'm working right now so I can't look but there's a couple places that carry them.

Nothing fancy by any means and still have lots to do like route the air filter underneath the fender. Wrap the intake pipe and downpipe. Second fan. Along with tons of other stuff. I wouldn't change anything. Lot of custom work but it's worth it to me. Really just comes down to what you want out...

I wanted a set, got put on the list then got ignored. Ended up making a solid steel set with the fourth mount and couldn't be happier. No added noise or vibration and that's with solid subframe bushings and poly suspension bushings. If you can weld or know someone that can make you a set, it's a...

It's pretty basic. Easy job. The hardest part in my opinion is that it's a tight fit. Hard to get your hands in there.

If that's the only damage after a good inspection ... I'd run them. Just hit em with the Dremel. But like stated, if you're going through the bottom end anyways, might as well throw in some new ones. 270k they definitely have some wear on them.