You need the brackets and the rotors from the outlander. And you need 1993-99 dsm two piston calipers

Here in America, we only have the 2.4 option so I would choose that one.

This should be everything you need to know. Good luck getting some!https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/05-06-outlander-bigger-brake-upgrade.428973/

I really liked my old fwd turbo 1g. It felt substantially lighter than my awd does. Yeah it spun tires in 3rd but the good news is it never broke anything, it just spins. Also got over 30mpg on the highway. I want a fwd again as a city romper/beater

I also run a closed system (stock pcv with a check valve and two breather tubes running straight from the VC to the turbo intake)I like the idea of pulling vac out too. That being said, depending on how bad your blow-by is some people STILL needed a catch can and if you do, then you obviously...

A sealed can will not have the most pressure relief.

If combinedFT is 0% when cruising, then you will see the AFRatioEST read 14.7. If the ecu is adding fuel via fuel trims, then the afratioest will be lower than 14.7.I didn’t take a look at the log I’m on my phone but it sounds like you need to add fuel via global and then adjust your sd table...

So far I’ve had the innovate mtxl, the lc2, and the aemx wideband. All 3 grounded to ecu ground. The aem is the closest to reading accurate but is still off a tad. It’s my belief that If you want it to be accurate, you need to set it up as linear wideband and narrow the operating range.

Oh, and of course I replaced the alternator in dads van too 🙄😄

As usual, the fun didn’t last for very longBroke a spring on the xtd stage 3. While a aving up for a new clutch, the clutch in my 1g starts slipping during normal highway driving! Borrowed my dads van and drove it for 4 days then the alternator went out LOL. What luck!I threw the vr4 back...

I bought a old school gen1 fp at the shootout for $100. It had zero shaft play, but was hesitant to spin/kinda felt seized up. The seller said it was in the backseat of a parts car he bought. Well I put some oil in it and spun it by hand a bit and decided to try it out on the car. The turbo has...

Well I’m far far behind, here’s the recaps.I had been collecting some parts leading up to the shootout, but was being lazy about getting them on the car. Well, the day before the shootout, I went to start the car before work and it wouldn’t fire. I didn’t hear the pump kicking on so I used...

Hmmm to adjust global or adjust fuel pressure? 🤔🤔🤔

Every water heater brand these days seems to be trash. Maybe they would last longer with a pre-reverse osmosis filter or even a water softener. I replace 30 year old water heaters just as often as 10yr old ones.

Is the sensor mounted in a place where moisture will get to it?….is it drilled right into the bottom of the exhaust or into the side?

To clarify, you’re saying that you trust the wideband and the ecm AND injector size more than the fuel pressure gauge?

Oh and check for clutch pedal assembly play

I just had a spring pop out and it changed gears for me a few times and then quit completely. I would definitely try to adjust the clutch master rod before pulling the trans but it sounds like you might be heading in that direction.

I feel like if it was the ECU it would give no spark whatsoever. There is nothing in ECMlink that would cause this but idk if that's what you're using?

Does the clutch disc have springs?

Such a clean car deserves AC imo!And for the stock IM, nothing helps more than a stubby, 12mm ratchet wrench. I would go buy a new one before I ever try to pull a stock IM without it haha

I live on the near-eastside of Indy. I wouldn't mind coming by and double checking over everything when you think it's ready to put it back together, but hanging out the entire time is probably not something I can do time-wise. Especially on a fully stock car as it will take a little more time...

Yes

Indianapolis checking in

Link settings look ok (besides your timing tab!! Set all those back to 0!)I would also check the "lock mdp" box in the inputs tab. Double check all your wiring to make sure you didn't leave anything unplugged. Check fuel injector wiring and clips. Maybe even check for boost leaks.Also...

I'm not sure why there are two holes though instead of just one. Never seen that before. Pour coolant in one side and make sure it comes out the other. If so, continue on.

Ok mr controversial 😂. I love your posts tho

AWD guys weld their's and still drive them on the street. I'm thinking that fwd has to be easier welded than all wheel... But I've no personal experience with either tbh

Weld it

Interesting... I'm sure that my 23+ yr old 2g mas could use cleaning

I disagree. A 18g at 15psi will feel MUCH faster than a t-25 at 18psi. Put it on, run wastegate pressure until you re-wire and/or upgrade your fuel pump, then run 15psi or whatever the ecu will let you get away with until you get something to tune with.He's still on stock exhaust so boost...

Spark, fuel, and compression. Check for those 3 first. Pull out the plugs and they should probably be fuel-soaked if you've been cranking it and it won't start. Clean em, crank the car with them out and watch for spark. If you have that then check compression.Plug wire order might be off. Post...

Yeah I made it very stockish to throw it in the 1g which is still on 450s

I'm usually running speed density with that ecu (the one from my galant, which is currently down with another toasted clutch lol).I'll take a look at the tune tho and maybe probably upload it 🙂

For anyone searching in the future, it's just as demertz said, I DID in fact have the timing plug grounded out 🤦. User error. I don't want to talk about it 🤦😂😂

https://mmcdlogger.sourceforge.net/

Turn the boost down and see if it goes away. If it doesn't, I'd start with a boost leak test

A small 16g and t28 are almost the same turbo. You can turn the boost down to test the fuel cut theory but I suspect something simple like a boost leak or ignition breakup.

90 talon 5spd with ecmlink v2. Dmertz on an old ecmlink forums post said the only thing that locks timing to 5 degrees is engine start on (which i logged, and it's not. It's off) and having the timing ground connector grounded. I've checked my wiring and don't see anything wrong. Changed my CAS...

To answer your question, they are physically the same sensor yes. Tho some say that the aem might be more sensitive since it requires no calibration (som assume it is matched to the sensor before sale, but I dont see how).To share my own experience, my innovate lc-2 had to be calibrated...

The cutout in the stock cluster with the display in there is awesome

Noooo. Man.. f***. I'm sorry to read that, but you are right - just keep moving forward. Best wishes man

I didn't even look at the logs yet, but if your VE is at 120, you need to start fresh. If you're still having fueling issues then you just need to wait until you get em fixed

So is that the correct kit tho? tdo5h? Where can I buy from?

I picked up an old school fp green at the shootout. There's absolutely zero shaft play, but the turbo doesn't spin very freely and the seller recommended a rebuild as they knew nothing about the turbo's past aside from it coming with a parts car they bought.My question is what rebuild kit is...

I'll look sometime when I'm on my laptop, but you definitely need to find out if you have the NT fpr or not.

Damn and I thought I was scrambling haha. Nowhere near this level! Looking forward to reading the rest

Unravel all that tape, and start putting the wires back together my man.

Having the same problem with mine after replacing the engine bay harness and o2 sensor. I'm not sure if I need another new sensor, have a bad harness, or maybe shorted out my gauge when the old harness got wrapped up in the axle and broke....

The shootout is coming up quick in just a little over 3 weeks. I just made a list of things I want to get done before I make the 4.5hr trip. Honestly it's not too daunting and should be no problem, but we all know how that goes.What's on your guy's list to get done before the shootout on the 30th?