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Wow that’s pretty light for an awd. Well it be cool to see ya make it back out for some more runs.I’m jumping back to it as we speak. Tossing everything in my auto awd to sort out some parts I wanna use. Gonna give me time to clean up my fwd chassis and maybe get the body work and paint done...
@Steve93Talon you plan on making more passes?? What’s the weight of the car if you don’t mind me asking?Pretty cool what you’ve done. Not something one would think about.
It’s not really more accurate. Nothings more accurate than a true airflow reading. You can’t get that with SD. SD is easier to deal with for higher hp levels.Op, SD with link is gonna be the easier option. Especially with link.
Yup I’m one of those guys. These cars being around 30 years old for the 1gs, I’d hate to see them disappear. I was very lucky to grab up all the ones I have now for so cheap. Now to continue to find these hard to find parts lol.Glad I decided to drift away from FB for a night. Wouldn’t have...
Nice seeing fwds still out making good passes.Mines been tore apart still since I got the cage done. Hoping to drop the engine in over winter and make some passes next year.
So I know I was saying how hard it is to get these SBEs, I just acquired this out of a 90gst with 128k. Internally the walls look super clean. I had a plan of dropping a stock block back in my fwd because it be way cooler resetting stock turbo records without a built engine. Who knows where this...
I did not work the stock cams. They are still set to zero.All I’m saying is cams are definitely a needed upgrade between the 300-400whp level. That’s all.
No, my point is I’m saying that ain’t right he ages under 400whp cams are 100% a great upgrade. Anything in the upper 200s deserve and upgrade. We wouldn’t have made 325whp on stock cams with what we got going on. Degreeing them isn’t gonna give us that magical HP. The cams are what gave us the...
That’s not true at all. An advertised 256-272 cam is perfect for those power levels. We dialed in an old grind BC 272 on a 16g pump has setup made 325 to the wheels. Hits peak torque at 4k. But it made its peak power at 7k. This thing has a super wide powerband over what we had on the stock...
Man I started with building models. Been so long tho. Got so many unfinished kits. Funny thing is I dug them out a month or so ago. Just need extra time.
Quick question, where are you pulling your oil pressure reading from? There’s a few different spots and you’ll get a slightly different reading. Some ports on the ofh are pre filter and some are post filter. The reading can be 5-10psi different. Then there’s the reading off the head port feeding...
325awhp on the dyno we are running 850s and only 60-62%idc. On pump anything bigger is a waste. But I will also say on the street we get up to 72-75%idc. Idk how much more power that is but should give an idea.
Kelfords really aren’t ideal for a bolt on style turbo. Way to much overlap which ends up robbing higher rpm horsepower. Need a cam with negative overlap to help in the higher rpms.
All this talk about what they should be at or what they could do is just bench racing. First off a 20g comp wheel stuff in a 16g housing isn’t gonna make much difference in power at 20psi. That wheel won’t shine until you start getting up higher in boost where the 16g wheel starts to fall...
I personally wouldn’t go with gsc or kelford with that setup. 350-400 id go with what these other guys suggested and find at least an HKS272s. 264s would be a tad small. Another good cam I see that pops up would be FP2s. Stick with the older style stuff if you can.
2900s add a lot of stress. One thing I’ve seen is the actual firewall flex while pumping the clutch. If one little thing moves in each spot, clutch won’t work right.
The awd ratios are good to run 26s. It’s been done that you can convert an awd trans to fwd then the 26s make sense. But back to back testing the awd ratio with 26s was slower both ET and mph than the fwd trans ratio and 24.5s with manual trans. Now if you where auto things would be totally...
To get good ET and mph you’ll have to dump the 16s and go to at least a 15” to get the shorter tire.The wheels I have my 24.5x8.5s I think where 9” wide. It’s been a min since I mounted them.
And I’ve been through so many combos.
Ya get him in here for dyno results. I’m really curious what it made.As for the rules, I believe all the hard parts have to 100% be stock and Unmodified. That means stock crank, rods, and pistons. I do not see loose ring or bearing clearances making the stock rotating assembly any stronger. I...
My thoughts are we all kinda know what parts will break. Piston and rod bolts are pretty weak. Is a loose rebuild on aftermarket rings and bearings going to make those weak links any stronger??It’s 2020 and has been awhile since this has been brought up. Updating and a little more...
Personally I think it should be up to the guys that hold or held the record at some point. They’ve made the honest efforts to do what they did.My concern is that even with a rebuild, some parts like the rings are no longer available. Not something you can just call up to one of our vendors...
So theres been small talk over the social media pages, with good short blocks getting a lot harder to find a lot of us even for stock cars need to rebuild bottom ends. Is this going to fit into the record requirements being the most the time with stock bore things will be a tad on the loose...