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Synthetic Oil [merged]

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DrunkenMime249

Probationary Member
28
0
Jul 16, 2002
Henrdon, Northern_VA
All synthetic oil threads are merged here.i'm trying to buy a 1g dsm turbo awd (as i'm sure most of you know by now from my recent ramblings in other threads). Most of the ones i've been looking at are bone stock for the most part except repairs and i have a feeling all are running on regular oil.

my question is when i finally buy one should i run regular, full sythetic, or somwhere in between (i am planning on running full synthetic).

also, if the car is running regular and i want to switch to full synthetic, i've heard it can be damaging to switch all at once. or is that just a fable? it makes sense and i was planning on slowly uprading the oil quality everytime i changed it until it was running full synthetic. is that the wrong thing to do?
 
You're friend is a moron. To properly break in a motor you should use dino oil for 500 miles and drive it gingerly. Don't granny the car but don't abuse it either. Avoid keeping the RPM at a steady level for any period of time (read: no highway driving). So just drive the car like a normal person for the first 500 miles at least, then change the oil and you can start to get on it a little, just stay away from keeping the RPM at the same place all the time. Run it for about 1000 miles more like that and change the oil to full synthetic and then you can drive it like you stole it.
 
I thought so too, but he knows a lot more about these cars then me so i'm just looking for info. Any one else ?
 
Drive it gingerly? You're pretty quick to call someone a moron. The rings don't have alot of tension to keep them 100% into the cylinder walls. It takes the elevated cylinder pressures of driving the engine hard to force the rings into the cylinder walls. There was a website where they did dyno tests between the same motors after the break in, one driven softly and one broken in by being driven hard, everytime the hard driven one made more power due to improved ring sealing.

However, unless you know EXACTLY what they did to it, I wouldn't recommend beating it untill you're comfortable with it's performance and reliability
 
What weight, brand, and type (synthetic or regular) of oil should I use on my 130k tsi? Im almost sure the kid who owned it before beat the shit out of it:| :cry: . What would be a good way to test (like compression??) the engine to determine what kind of oil to use?? :confused:
 
Best bet for oil weight would be the oil pressure. Too low, go higher weight, too high, go lower weight.

I'd probably run 10-30
 
Would I need an oil pressure gauge to check this, such as one from autometer? My uncle's making a trip to autometer headquarters and is picking up some gauges (for free I think OMG ). I was thinking some required guages would be:

*boost
*vaccum
*oil pressure
*EGT w/probe

are these (below) needed for future modding?
*fuel pressure
*any others needed?
 
Originally posted by Syndicate13
You're friend is a moron.

You are a moron.

If you want to actually break your motor in correctly, do this instead. Fill up with 10W-30 dino oil and any filter. Go out to a secluded area with no traffic/cops. Have the car in 3rd at 30mph and apply around 75% throttle ( no WOT ) or around/below 10psi of boost. Run the car in 3rd gear up to 50mph. Then coast in 3rd down to 30mph and repeat 5-10 times. Once done with this, make a 4th gear 50-65/70mph run 5-10 times also. The point being that the rings are being loaded at various engine loads at varying lengths of time ( dependent on gear/speed ). Once done, return home and change the oil out for 10W-30 dino oil ( with new filter ) and drive normally for 500 miles. Do another regular oil change and drive for 1000 miles. Drive the car normally for the complete 1500 miles. Neither baby the motor or drive it hard. Once done, change the oil for whatever you want and be happy your motor is broken-in.

5W-30 can be substituted for colder climates. Mobile 1 also states that any wear point in a motor during break-in would wear no matter what type of oil used. The only problem could be glazing of the cylinder wall if not done properly. Porsche, BMW, Viper, Corvette are all broken-in from the factory with Mobile 1.

STECARS: Dino oil is oil that is refined from crude oil. It is typically high in wax content and is very un-uniform at the molecular level. True synthetics are PAO oils ( Mobile/Amsoil only ) which are made in laboratories using pure substances. There are synthetics which are made from crude oil, which is done by refining crude oil to an extremely high level. This oil is not equal to true PAO synthetics as its wax content is still significantly higher.

http://www.chris-longhurst.com/carbibles/index.html?menu.html&engineoil_bible.html

-Groomz
 
Thanks for all the help. I didnt know there were so many different views on the way to break in an engine. :thumb:
 
Is there any point to adding the MOA to Synthetic oil? My buddy at Acura says theres no reason to add it but I would have to disagree. What you guys think
 
I once saw a lab study done on oil additives, they had a glass-cased "engine" that heated up to normal operating temps and rotated at like 2000 rpm, and then they added different oil additives to regular oil and synthetic oil. they found out that all the additives, regardless of brand or base oil, foamed very bad and caused excessive air pockets in the oil. ill try to find the link to the video

I would just stick with a good synthetic, royal purple or castrol or something.
 
Okay well I need to change my oil this weekend and my car has always used 20/50 oil, never synthetic. Should I change to that or keep using what I have. My car has 86,xxx miles on it. What oil brand should I go with? Now on the oil filter. I called Mitsu. and it's $6.33 for an oil filter from them. Should I go w/ that or get one at Autozone? Any part. brand?

Also, onto the brakes. I can order pads and power slot rotors from RRE for a total of $205 minus shipping. I'm not sure how much that will be. And I called Just brakes and they quoted me $200.18 plus tax for new pads and rotors or I could do their 4 wheel friction reline and get new rotors from them for $241.26. Info on the 4 wheel friction relin is right here...http://justbrakes.com/reline.htm


What path do you guys think I should go with? Thanx :thumb:
 
Ah.

This is the part of the roller-coaster ride where it goes clikclikclikclikclikclikclikclik

Still, here we go again, I suppose.

I'm currently running Redline in the 95 because a fellow I work with knows how little I support synthetics in street cars, and he offered to buy me 5 quarts if I'd use it. Despite being startlingly pretty, I'm not entirely stupid.

I can't guess why you'd run 20W-50 in a modern car, and while your (probably lost) Owner's Manual calls for 20W-10 above freezing.

I've run silicone brake fluid in my motorcycles, mostly to save the tank paint. I run it in my Datsun 2000. I'd not bother on a regular street car.

That's me.

You might also try searching, but be aware this has gotten messy before. Better to ask which church is better.

Oh, and for brake hardware, I only replace pads. I don't turn rotors. Even when gouged by past-used pads. I know, I know.
 
Well I said 20/50 because I guess thats what the previous owners used. I just got the car in Jan. and this is my first oil change so I wanna use what's right. I searched around and didn't really get what I was looking for. So should I just use any brand of 20/10?

And does oil filter matter? I notice alot of people just get it from Mits.
 
I personally can't say why people prefer synthetic here, its supposed to be better for your motor, yet I have seen no difference. I just use Sythetic anyway.

I recommend 5W-30 for winter driving, and 10W-30 for summer driving. As far as oil filters go, don't use FRAM oil filters..otherwise you should be ok. I've noticed a oil pressure difference when using the mitsubishi filter so I am stuck on using them. Otherwise, no oil filter does not matter.
 
"20/10?" WTF is that?

IMO 20W-50W Syn would be fine in Texas - that's exactly what I would run there - ALL Turbo cars are too hard on Oil to use Dino Oil IMO, especially in the warmer climate areas - unless you change the Dino Oil every 3K miles - & I'm just too damn lazy to do that.

IMO if you are still running the POS Water to Oil Cooler stick STRICTLY with the MITSU Filter - It's "T" shaped Gasket is diffferent than most all others & less prone to fail as others will on the Water to Oil Cooler. If you've not yet experienced the "JOY" of a spit Oil Filter Gasket dumping a couple quarts of Oil down the length of your under-chassis - TRUST ME - you don't want to go there...

I went to Syntheic P/S Fluid too after changing out Seals.
 
My cars burns alot of oil, as of right now im adding a whole quart about every 400 miles. I started off with Castrol GTX 10w-30 and having been adding Mobile 1 Semi-Synthetic 5w-30. What weight should I be adding? 145,xxx miles
 
I have always run 15w50 in my car (Mobil 1) and had no problems with it at all. I'm not really sure why I ran a higher weight honestly just have. I never really gave it much thought honestly. After reading this I started thinking about the weight I'm running and wondering why exactly that I am running a heavy oil. It's not hot here, my motor is still stock and it does not burn oil nor do I have lifter tick.

Anyway I'm gonna try a 10w-30 Mobil 1 and see how that goes. I'll report if I notice any differences. If there is a differencec I will see/hear/feel it because for the last 2 years I have used nothing but 15w-50 in my car. (not that I do a whole shit load of K's anyway...)
 
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