The last few days have been really nice out and I have noticed the car is running a little hotter than usually. I threw on the heat to keep the temps at normal.

I wasnt sure the front mount was going to cause overheating issues but obviously it is. My question is....

Will a fluidyne radiator and couple spal fans solve this issue??

yes, use some water wetter also.

deos it overheat after you use the AC or it jsut always does it?

Start with this.

Drain your coolant and replace it with an 80/20 (water/antifreeze) mix and two bottles of water wetter. Buy a lower temp thermostat if that doesn't work. If that doens't work replace your fans with some higher CFM fans.

I have only one fan on my car (no A/C fan) and have a 3.5" front mount that covers my entire front end. Going low speed with the A/C on in high temp I never notice my car get any warmer than normal. I have only the 80/20 mix and two bottles of water wetter. I will add another fan for the hell of it but do not really need it.

Try that and see how it goes.

A lower temperature thermostat may solve the problem entirely, so give it a shot.

The part number is:

MD997607 (Mitsu 180* thermostat)

The car doesnt overheat too much just crusing but if its bumper to bumper traffic or going from light to light that I see it start to rise.

I am running one slim line and one stock fan. The slim line fan doesnt push nearly as much air as the stock one did, I think that could be part of the problem.

Well I am going to go replace both fans with Spal fans, do the 80?20 mix and use that water wetter stuff and go from there.



Thanks for the info guys.

I had the same type of issue with my FMIC(3.5 inch core), I ran the 80/20 mix and wired my fans to a switch, do in the summer once the car is up to temp I throw the switch and the fans run constant and the temp stays constant.

Don't replace your stock main fan unless you absolutely have to. It works better than any of the slim line fans that I have seen.

I don't have AC in my car, but I do have a good size FMIC, a fluidyne radiator and the stock main fan. Stock thermostat and a mix of coolant and water. My temps never go over 200 and are usually around 190. The stock main fan is the way to go. I have a 1g but I don't think a 2g will be much different.

Originally posted by boostineklipz
I am running one slim line and one stock fan. The slim line fan doesnt push nearly as much air as the stock one did, I think that could be part of the problem.

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I only have one fan the other is gone and my car doens't overheat with A/C on in bumper to bumper. My core is 3.5 as well.

I did hear that it's not so much the core size but a short intercooler that puts the end tanks in the way of the rad. Makes sense I guess. My core is 28 long so I don't have that problem either however.

I would try the thermostat and coolant first before you spend money on fans. That will solve your problem I'm sure.

Theres a post somewhere arund here that says that you could use a 88-91 rx7 theormostat which is way better than any tstat made for dsms.

when is the fan suposed to turn on? i had a fmic which covers my entire front end. I Had a stock fan without AC on my car and i ran about 180-190 but now i have a slim and my fan seems to turn on around 200-205 what temperatures can be remotely dangerous ?

>when is the fan suposed to turn on?

195 deg in the radiator, which means that engine is a bit hotter. Also, switching to 180 deg thermostat does not keep your temps at 180, unless you also replace your radiator switch.

>my fan seems to turn on around 200-205 what temperatures can be remotely dangerous ?

200-205 deg. is not dangerous. Once you start getting to 220 deg, you have to start keeping an eye on it.

This is a common problem with FMICs, our radiator opening is just not big enough to allow enough cool air to hit the radiator. The holes in my bumper cover lowered my temps by ~10 deg (from 205 to 195). But I realize that not everyone likes them and is willing to do this to their car.

Leon
RR

I don't know for certain about 95's, but I "Think" they are the same as 98's. Anyhow, for a 98, the stock thermastat is 180.

heres what I did to solve my issue.

fluidyne, slimline, new coolant 80% water, 20% red antifreeze and a bottle of water wetter.

it went from overheating in traffic to being cooler than its ever been.

I have an ungodly huge intercooler too. 3.5 inches thick.

Pat like I have said before start with replacing the cap. It may not be holding pressure. Start at the least expensive part.

I'm having the same problem since installing the huge PTE core last Friday. I'm going to try 180* thermostat, add another slim fan and run 80/20 mix and see what happens.

Shimming the hood mounting hardware to raise it slightly off the cowl would help airflow.

-Groomz

Patrick,

I had the same problem when i had my Greddy IC. As soon as i got my Spearco 2-120 core, i thought that would solve the problem cause the core is 4 inches less short.

That did not do anything, I dont know i cant tell from your pictures if you have the top black part of your opening bumper cut off, Like mine or like larry had, But, as soon as i did that, Everything cooled down greatly. I still use about a 60/40 mix and everything works fine, there is a huge gap for air to go above the ic. I dont know if you were ever going to do that to your bumper, but mine looks absolutely fine, and i used a dremel with a cut off wheel to do it, just make sure to wear a resperator or something that covers your mouth while doing it.

Try that and log some temps on your logger, see how it goes, If not, Try some other options.

You guys with good temps and a large 3.5" core, is your bumper support in or out?

Try adding a 300zx hood scoop, I heard that works well too. Good luck.

Originally posted by GSXTCY
Try adding a 300zx hood scoop, I heard that works well too. Good luck.

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A reverse mounted scoop of any kind will work well to pull air out of the engine bay. If you feel like hacking the stock hood and slapping one on, the benefits could be very good. I've seen a couple high power road race DSM's running these types of scoops, so I would think it works well.

-Groomz

Originally posted by boostineklipz
The car doesnt overheat too much just crusing but if its bumper to bumper traffic or going from light to light that I see it start to rise.

I am running one slim line and one stock fan. The slim line fan doesnt push nearly as much air as the stock one did, I think that could be part of the problem.

Well I am going to go replace both fans with Spal fans, do the 80?20 mix and use that water wetter stuff and go from there.



Thanks for the info guys.

Click to expand...

As you know its been in the 90's in this area the last couple days. I have a fluidyne one 12" spal. I drilled an eraser size hole in the thermostat,and my fans kick on at 180*. my temp needle sits just left of center in these 90' temps we have been having.

Originally posted by RuBiCaNT5X
You guys with good temps and a large 3.5" core, is your bumper support in or out?

Click to expand...

Bumper support.... That's out for sure.

On a 2G the Thermostat opens at 195 degrees and the Rad fan does not come on until 210 degrees.

With a small whole in my therm. I haven't seen higher than 195 yet. I have 80/20 but no water wetter. We will see what happens when it starts going over 100.

I have the stock rad fan and a 11 inch spal AC fan.

anyone having problems with a core this thick without the bumper support and without the AC condensor?