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Crankshaft Alignment Kit experience?

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stock1g4g63

20+ Year Contributor
1,195
1
Jan 2, 2003
(was TX) Anaheim, CA, California
Hey guys, I've been wondering what kind of experiences anyone has had, if any, with the crankshaft alignment kit from Concept Racing/Mach V...

I've had minor symptoms of crankwalk before, replaced my thrust bearings (twice just to make sure) and haven't had any problems since. I've only talked to one other member on this board and they say they've been running strong. I plan on doing the 6-bolt swap later on, but was wondering if this was worth the money until I had enough to do it, or if it worked well enough to not worry any further (estimated at $500 for machining, ARP studs, and Alignment Kit).

http://www.machv.com/conracmbcadk.html
 
stock1g4g63: I have a question for you, it's not an answer to your question, but another question. How easy was it to swap out your thrust bearings? Do you just drop the oilpan and do it right there? I was thinking about checking them and replacing just in case, but was wondering if it's a couple hour job, or pull the entire motor job. Thanks
 
Originally posted by rabidfox
stock1g4g63: I have a question for you, it's not an answer to your question, but another question. How easy was it to swap out your thrust bearings? Do you just drop the oilpan and do it right there? I was thinking about checking them and replacing just in case, but was wondering if it's a couple hour job, or pull the entire motor job. Thanks

Just unbolt the center main cap and slide the old bearings out and the new ones in. Its messy and a cheap fix, but who cares? Cheap insurance.

As for the alignment kit, I would get it if I were using the stock main caps. For the price it can't hurt and its well known that the 4G63 main caps are slightly larger in diameter that the main cap studs. What is the machining for? It should not be required for the alignment kit.

-Groomz
 
Originally posted by Groomz
Just unbolt the center main cap and slide the old bearings out and the new ones in. Its messy and a cheap fix, but who cares? Cheap insurance.

As for the alignment kit, I would get it if I were using the stock main caps. For the price it can't hurt and its well known that the 4G63 main caps are slightly larger in diameter that the main cap studs. What is the machining for? It should not be required for the alignment kit.

-Groomz

One of my friends has done that a few times...I don't know why more 2nd gen owners experiencing crankwalk don't just replace the thrust bearing every few thousand miles.

Mike
 
I think it's because most 2g owners ( or anyone that owns a car, nothing to do with 1g vs 2g) don't work on their motors themselves. Or they can't afford to have someone do that for them every couple of thousand miles.
 
Well, from my experience, the majority of 2g owners buy their cars for looks with performance as a secondary objective, or as something they get into later on.

Most 1g owners buy their 1g's strictly with performance in mind (I know I did), so as a result, the 1g owners generally have more knowledge of their cars.

As far as replacing the thrust bearings every few thousand miles, I thought about that, but a friend of mine who owns his own shop (and is a MUCH better mechanic than I am) explained to me that it doesn't work that way... I don't remember the exact reasons, but I do remember that it isn't that simple and you can only do it so many times.
 
Explain to me this "pull the center main" process. What about the other bearings in the girdle? And do you just sneak the top half around on the crank, or what?
 
I spent $1200 on my machine work, line honed, bored 20 over, block decked, bearings fit, rings file fit, rods, pistons, crank, flywheel balanced, shortblock assembled, etc. Also, changing out your bearings with the motor in the car has to be the worst idea I've ever heard.

Btw, before I start getting made fun of for spending so much on my machine bill, my car never smoked after being built, not ONCE. I fired it up, it shot one little puff of smoke out, and even during high rpm, few lbs of boost while breaking it in, it never spewed oil. You get what you pay for.
 
Originally posted by Mirage2LTurbo

Btw, before I start getting made fun of for spending so much on my machine bill, my car never smoked after being built, not ONCE. I fired it up, it shot one little puff of smoke out, and even during high rpm, few lbs of boost while breaking it in, it never spewed oil. You get what you pay for.

Spending money is tough.
 
Yes it doesnt grow on trees. I understand everyone can't just drop money to have it done the best way, and often times, there are cheaper ways that do work. But, dropping the oil pan to change a bearing has to be the worst idea ever. EVER. If you're bearing is going bad, you're more than likely going to need machine work on the crank and cap. I don't think there is anyone that can agree with what I've just said.
 
Originally posted by Defiant
Explain to me this "pull the center main" process. What about the other bearings in the girdle? And do you just sneak the top half around on the crank, or what?

That is exactly what was done... A small screw driver to push out the old top half of the thrust bearing, and slide the new one back around.. I was going to go this route, but then pulled the motor and rebuilt the bottom end.
 
ok first off is the main bearing on the gridle with the side steps or whatever the thrust bearing? if so also i have been told to have it aligned...how do i go about doing this? i was told to make sure i do this or i will have trouble? what do i do? help
 
Originally posted by Mirage2LTurbo
Also, changing out your bearings with the motor in the car has to be the worst idea I've ever heard.

Its really not that hard ... althought pulling the motor out isn't too bad on our cars.

It's more so the bearings that wear away .. not the crank. So why not just change bearings everytime endplay is out of spec? I don't see the problem here? Pulling the motor every year or 2? Nah ... I'd rather just take 1/2 a day and do it with it in the car.
 
Originally posted by rjdavis21
ok first off is the main bearing on the gridle with the side steps or whatever the thrust bearing? if so also i have been told to have it aligned...how do i go about doing this? i was told to make sure i do this or i will have trouble? what do i do? help

yes the thrust bearing has the sides attached to it, the main bearings looks like half of a circle. I think what they mean by aligning it is torqueing down the main girdle, then unbolting the thrust bearing bolts (directly to either side of the thrust bearing) and prying the crank in one direction or the other to align the 2 pieces of the thrust bearing even with each other against the crank shaft, then retightening the bolts.
 
Its certainly a shady quick fix. Nothing bad can come from swapping out a toasted thrust bearing for a new one. If it gets me a couple more thousand miles before I have to make a swap, then I'll do it. Remember also that Mitsu made the thrust clearances very tight. Too tight from talking to several motor builders. Typical thrust clearance should be around 0.007 inches, while Mitsu rates it between 0.002-0.007 for it being in spec. By no means is this the CW fix. Don't think that. Just a cheap way to keep her going until there's another motor to swap in.

-Groomz
 
I've only worked on 1G motors. Does the 2G 4G63 have a seperate main cap for the thrust bearing or is a complete girdle assembly? If it is, then you cannot do the swap. Any one know?

-Groomz
 
Originally posted by Groomz
Its certainly a shady quick fix. Nothing bad can come from swapping out a toasted thrust bearing for a new one. If it gets me a couple more thousand miles before I have to make a swap, then I'll do it. Remember also that Mitsu made the thrust clearances very tight. Too tight from talking to several motor builders. Typical thrust clearance should be around 0.007 inches, while Mitsu rates it between 0.002-0.007 for it being in spec. By no means is this the CW fix. Don't think that. Just a cheap way to keep her going until there's another motor to swap in.

-Groomz


Better said that my first post. It's just not the *right* way to do things :)
 
Originally posted by Groomz
I've only worked on 1G motors. Does the 2G 4G63 have a seperate main cap for the thrust bearing or is a complete girdle assembly? If it is, then you cannot do the swap. Any one know?

-Groomz

It is one complete girdle assembly, and yes it can be done. I was extremely close to doing it, but then just pulled the motor.
 
Originally posted by ArticNemesis
It is one complete girdle assembly, and yes it can be done. I was extremely close to doing it, but then just pulled the motor.

How can it be done? I certainly believe it can be, but have no idea/experience with it.

Originally posted by Mirage2LTurbo
Better said that my first post. It's just not the *right* way to do things

:thumb:

-Groomz
 
ok so when i move the crankshaft back and forth i should be able to see when the 2 halfs of the bearings lign up? i dont need a gauge or any special tool? please help because ill be putting the engine back together very soon and want to do it right.
 
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