When you say it has been taking longer and longer to start . . . are you saying that it turns over more times before actually catching? Or is the crank speed actually getting slower and slower . . . ?

I'd say that if the cranking speed kept getting slower and then finally wouldn't crank at all, but a jump from another car got you going . . . I would go get the alternator & battery checked out. You'll probably have to go to a place like AutoZone that can test the alternator while it's still in the vehicle because the stock alternators (at least mine off my '97) are to NOT be tested on a bench -- I've no idea why . . .

So I'd give that a check and see how it goes

I work at pepboys so Im going to do a battery and alternator diagnostic on it tommorrow (for free) .

Its been getting slower and slower.

Free? Free is definitely good

As for it getting slower and slower . . . definitely sounds like the battery is A) not holding a charge or B) Just not getting charged up while driving around.

Quick thing to check out before/after you get your testing done is make sure you have good connections @ the battery. If there is corrosion or a loose connection - it will affect the performance of the charging system. While you're at it . . . might as well check the connections to the alternator ESPECIALLY the grey plug that gets clipped in.

When I had mine taken out . . . I *thought* it was plugged in all the way, but found out (much like you) that it wasn't . . .

Hope some of this has helped

Originally posted by tsunari

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the stock alternators (at least mine off my '97) are to NOT be tested on a bench -- I've no idea why . . .
...

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I would be interested in knowing where you got that information.

Help, help, I've been kidnaped and they are going to test me off the car on somebody's work bench.

Sounds like someone was trying to sell you something or trying to get more money by finding other things wrong with your car that may not even been related to why you were there.

Cheers,
GTM

Why did you need a battery, was the old one dead? Did you check your alternator output at the time? Sounds like the alternator might be tits-up.

Originally posted by Defiant
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Did you check your alternator output at the time? Sounds like the alternator might be tits-up.

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Seems we were just here, I think we need to make this an article.

A quick test for the Alt. that only requires a good quality test light. Scroll down to my last entry.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=91463&highlight=b+test+light

Cheers,
GTM

Originally posted by GTM
I would be interested in knowing where you got that information.

Help, help, I've been kidnaped and they are going to test me off the car on somebody's work bench.

Sounds like someone was trying to sell you something or trying to get more money by finding other things wrong with your car that may not even been related to why you were there.

Cheers,
GTM

Click to expand...

Actually- I'd like to know why myself!!! What happened was, I had my alternator off while doing some maintenance elsewhere so decided to take it to O'Riley's and get it tested (they can only test alternators/starters on the bench) just for Sh!ts and grins.

Get down there and they didn't have the proper adapter to hook me up to their machine. So I was like - ok, whatever . . . and went across the street to AutoZone to get it tested there.

Again, they didn't have the connector either . . . then the guy doing the test looked through his manual/computer some more and there in big bold letters was the phrase 'NOT TO BE TESTED' or something along those lines. No explaination . . . nadda.

So that's why I suggested getting it tested while it's still in the car I'd hate for someone to go throught the time/effort of actually pulling that beast out like I did, only to find that it can't be tested (whatever the reason may be)

Originally posted by tsunari

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Again, they didn't have the connector either . . . then the guy doing the test looked through his manual/computer some more and there in big bold letters was the phrase 'NOT TO BE TESTED' or something along those lines.
...

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Hmmm, interesting business there. This could be because the training given AZ staff has some flaws, their equipment adapters do not interface with the plug/socket for that Alt.

It would be great to find the answers to this.

Do you have a test light and can you make the quick test I suggested on your own car? It will only take a couple min of your time and you have a known good Alt. If you have a 3 wire plug I don't know the quick test but it should be in the factory manual in the electrical section.

Cheers,
GTM

Yeah, I've got a test light around here somewhere . . . I'll pull out my FSM tonight and look for the pin-outs and post results tomorrow

Originally posted by tsunari
Yeah, I've got a test light around here somewhere . . . I'll pull out my FSM tonight and look for the pin-outs and post results tomorrow

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Thanks, it may be in the trouble-shooting section which is sometimes written for dummies so you accidentaly skip over the procedure. I have to chase parts later in the week and may be near an AZ store where I can see if there have been any changes since you last were there.

Cheers,
GTM

I tested my battery and alternator the battery was dead and the alternator was fine.

The pos terminal on the battery was loose though. It looked ok but it had been bumping the strut bar everytime I went over a speed bump (Apartment complex has'm). So Sears gave me a new one and all connetions are tight. Any suggestions one a battery tiedown setup for a non-stock size battery. No bungie cords

Originally posted by RaysTsi
I tested my battery and alternator the battery was dead and the alternator was fine.

The pos terminal on the battery was loose though. It looked ok but it had been bumping the strut bar everytime I went over a speed bump (Apartment complex has'm). So Sears gave me a new one and all connetions are tight. Any suggestions one a battery tiedown setup for a non-stock size battery. No bungie cords

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Lucky you!!!!

What, no boots on the terminals...

You can buy a battery tiedown kit which has some "J" bolts and a cross bar, it may take drilling a hole in the inner fender to get one of them to hook. DON'T FORGET to cut the J bolts off so they don't dent the HOOD!!!



You should also put some protection on the strut brace ... a piece of old garden hose or heater hose taped at the ends.

Get a small piece (4"x4") of Styrofoam sheet/shipping container, and put on top of the battery post. close the hood carefully and then open again and check the dents in the foam. This will tell you how close the hood is to the battery post

Cheers,
GTM