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how to get my gst down to 2500 lbs and run 12's on the 14 b

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honduraneclipse

20+ Year Contributor
226
0
Apr 13, 2003
revere, Massachusetts
my mods are
wiseco pistons 8:5
cometic gaket with arp head studs balance shafts removed
255 walbro pump with aem FPR
prothane motor mounts
type s blow off
2.5 catback
evo 3 turbo mani
FMIC

well i want to know if i can trully get my 90 gst down to 2500lbs or even less.... i took my time to completely clean out everything behind the drivers seat,, spare, back seats , platic panels , carpet ... im thinking about getting a carbon fiber hood ... but what else can i do getting down the wheight and please dont say AC in massachusetts it gets really hot and HUMID in the summer
 
please dont say AC in massachusetts it gets really hot and HUMID in the summer

hahahhaha:rolleyes: are you serious? There is you will get less than 2500lbs with all that crap. You better be thinking abotu converting to a maual rack, sound deadning out, all panels out, bumper supports out, a/c out, even heater core and all that crap out, all bolts/brackets in engine bay not needed, stereo/speakers out, aftermarket seats, CF hood, lighter wheels, lighter exhaust, center console out (just shift lever) and all that are some of the things you can do...

i had very minor weight reductions to my Talon. I had exhaust, FP and 15psi with shitty driving right off the street in the summer = 13.0@105
13's aint no thing as long as your turbo is healthy...
 
i hope you are aware the 1990 gst fwd only wheighs in at 2740lbs. stock
racing seats save about 40lbs., carbon fiber hood saves about 25 lbs., AC about 30 lbs., back seats and plastic panels and spare and rear carpet a good 50lbs.
that already gets me down to 2595 lbs..
 
Well for one I thought you were talking about along with driver.
Secondly; you said you were not wanting to remove your a/c (which means heat as well)... so by your calculations add on another 30lbs...

That puts you at about 2625lbs (which I doubt, but lets go with that). Now ow are you going to shed 125lbs with the a/c still in? You will have to resort into my list, but obviously avoiding the creature comforts you like while still trying to get to 2500lbs.

If you did mean with you in it...then you'll have to do what i said plus more. Good luck :thumb:
 
My AWD is 3150 with me in it (150) and enough "stuff" to race with, with a full interior.

That's without a spare, without AC, without ABS, and without a front bumper.

If you want to get to 2500 pounds, you're going to have to get silly ripping stuff out.

....Kyle T.
 
A TRUE car should be able to run good times with out ripping interior and a/c, and our cars are true and real.....you dont need to do with out all that to run good times. 200 lbs is about 20 hp or 2-3psi if your setup is good. Do more mods to make it faster not rip your car apart(but its ok to loose the un needed stuff)

Oh yeah spare tires are needed i took mine out for a while and I got a flat tire and was stuck..morale of story dont take it out. Its ok at the track, which should be the only place you race good luck :thumb:
 
I've heard that the battery tray weights a bit. Ditch it and make a custom tray outta some light weight sheet metal and use a race battery. A titanium muffler will help too and I'm not sure if theres any lexon windows for DSMs but those help.
 
Originally posted by IndiEp
I've heard that the battery tray weights a bit. Ditch it and make a custom tray outta some light weight sheet metal and use a race battery. A titanium muffler will help too and I'm not sure if theres any lexon windows for DSMs but those help.

Or better yet, relocate it to the trunk.
 
Originally posted by leet
Or better yet, relocate it to the trunk.

Better yet, mount the battery with custom brackets on the lower subframe, and remove the stock tray. Relocating the battery only helps to clean up the engine bay and/or change weight distribution, but when you factor in the wiring, the different connections, etc, it ends up weighing the same.
 
Originally posted by IndiEp
I've heard that the battery tray weights a bit. Ditch it and make a custom tray outta some light weight sheet metal and use a race battery. A titanium muffler will help too and I'm not sure if theres any lexon windows for DSMs but those help.
OSOFASTRACING.COM has lexan windows for first gens and the last thing you want to do in a fwd is take weight from the front and put it in the back.
 
my other car, 90 laser fwd turbo 5sp only weights 2550 stock, look on autotrader.com, ct, im in pa and i toke out all my ac stuff and was fine in the summer and i think its warmer here then up there, take out the ac shit, its free to do and probably more weight reduction then a few hundred dollar carbon fiber hood.
 
I know they also make CF hatches for 2gs...not sure about 1gs though...but I think they may.

A CF hatch with lexan rear "glass" will save a lot of weight...and the gas shocks that hold it up wont really break anymore...I bet this could save at least 100lbs. Figure the stock one weighs...130-120lbs? A good CF one with Lexan...30lbs at most
 
Originally posted by btrux06
my other car, 90 laser fwd turbo 5sp only weights 2550 stock, look on autotrader.com, ct, im in pa and i toke out all my ac stuff and was fine in the summer and i think its warmer here then up there, take out the ac shit, its free to do and probably more weight reduction then a few hundred dollar carbon fiber hood.

Who makes a carbon fiber hatch for 2G's???? Please let me know!
 
Thanks but I have never heard of them! Does anyone know about what kind of quality and service this company provides! I notice they have no pics on there website that worries me a little bit!

P.S Sweet there in Canada!
 
Make sure to check the rulebooks before you go ripping everything out of your car. Lexan windows are not allowed in most classes (unless you just grudge race on a test and tune night) and lexan is definitely not legal for use on the street. The same goes for the Carbon fiber rear hatch.

I don't think a stock 90 laser weighs 2550 stock. Have you verified this or is it just word of mouth. I don't see how it could weigh that much less than a talon or eclipse. I doubt mine even wieghs that little and I have removed the AC/emissions/front bumper support and misc. other things.

12 second ET's are possible in a FWD DSM with a 14b, but not without a lot of hard work, good tuning, and a very good 60' I suggest investing in a good pair of slicks-not drag radials. Also if you got some skinnies for the rear that would help cut down your rotational mass. Big brake kit? forget it. Get the car corner weighted if you can (requires coilovers or some ingenuity) so you are placing equal wieght over the front tires. Move everything you can to the front of the car. Remove the entire exhaust system after the 02 housing. Depending on how far you want to go if you were building an all out FWD race car you could remove the fuel tank and place a custom fuel cell where the stock battery sits, and move the battery elsewhere. There are a million things you can do to lose weight or at least get it in the right place, the question is how much you are willing to sacrafice in the process.
 
You should relocate the battery as far foward as possible. How about getting two small motorcycle batteries and put them inside the front bumper?

Did anyone mention manual windows?
Replace the power mirrors with light race style mirrors.
Manual seatbelts instead of auto-strangling belts.
 
power mirrors arent heavy, soorry but those things you mentioned to get that extra what 4 lbs if that out arnt worth the time, money and hassle.
 
Like the guy said a few posts up; how much are you willing to sacrafice? How bad do you want it? I must have done about a dozen little things that, by themselves, don't really matter. But a dozen things at 5 pounds each adds up to another 50 pounds or so. And if it's cheap/ free and easy to do, then why not?
 
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