hey guys,
I'm having a weird problem with my 1998 GSX eclipse. First thing, I've been throwing a check engine code since I bought the car. I ran it and it was a "EGR malfunction"
About two months ago I threw a rod so I had the engine and tranny rebuilt by a good machanic, and put them back in the car myself. I also went threw and replaced pretty much every sensor, including both O2s, water temp, and both the EGR sensors. (one on the mani and one on the firewall) car drove fine for a while, but then the CEL came on again. Two codes, EGR and something to do with the idle steaper motor. Kept driving it like that for a while, and then it happened. Car woulden't accelerate very good from a stop light, and when I looked down, my stock boost gauge was off the chart. Also, my A/F, as measured with a apexi turbo timer, was at 10:1 and flashing. I got the car home and parked it. I checked the codes and now I had three. Previous two and one talking about a "super rich condition"
I don't really have a question because I'm probably just going to take it to the dealer and tell them to fix everything, but I'm curoius as to what you guys think might have happened?
The thing that has me puzzled is that if the stock boost gauge gets it's feed from the mani, does that mean that the air leak is between the mani and the head?
If so, could this be where my EGR CEL is coming from?
thanks,
EricT

The stock boost gauge doen't measure actual pressure at all, it's an ECU calculation using other sensor inputs.

rabidcrow said:

hey guys,
Also, my A/F, as measured with a apexi turbo timer, was at 10:1 and flashing. I got the car home and parked it.

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What?

I have an apexi turbo timer. It hooks up to my stock o2 sensor and I believe it measures voltage. I know it's not that accurate, kinda like the flashey gauges, but it went to super rich and stayed there.

Is it true that the stock boost gauge gets it's reading from the ECU? I always thought that the pick up is on the intake mani?

Well, I would honestly take it back to the previous mechanic as he should have to cover any crap like that-especially since he worked on it. A mitsu dealer will bend you over and have a 100 man parade through your.....well, you know.

And FYI........judging true A/F off of your ApexiTT is wrong.....just flat out wrong. Best thing to do to read and use what your A/F REALLY is would be some kind of wideband kit.....there are other options too, but let's get these other issues taken care of first.

I know that the A/F isen't accurate. I'm just saying that because with that info, and the fact that the computer threw a "super rich" code, I think it's safe to say that it's running really rich.

I'm just curious about the boost gauge thing, cause if it does get it's signal from the ECU, that could mean that I just blew a seal some where on the mani right? and the computer is compinsating for air that isen't even geting to the motor?

Taking it back to the machanic is a no-go. I took out the engine and tranny and then just sent the tranny and the short block to him. Only warrenty is on the internals.

Could this have something to do with that EGR code? I replaced both the sensors. One on the firewall, one on the driver side of the intake manifold

Thanks!

rabidcrow said:

Is it true that the stock boost gauge gets it's reading from the ECU? I always thought that the pick up is on the intake mani?

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Is my word not good enough for you? This is why a real aftermarket boost gauge is number one on the upgrade path.

sorry, just noticed who you where.

So do you think something just blew apart then?

rabidcrow said:

So do you think something just blew apart then?

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Let's talk about each code.

1. EGR: you need to go back and double check your work, wiring, vacuum lines.....etc. Why did you change the sensors when there were no codes?

2. ISC (idle speed controller), it's either out of adjustment or needs to be replaced.

3. Do you have the actual code for the "super rich condition" CEL?

You should go ahead and perform a boost leak test and fix all leaks, this has to be done regularly or at least when work is done to the intake tract, not to mention engine swap.

do you have both of your EGR sensors hooked up in the right order??
You want to fix this rich condition quick because your going to run into some detonation problems. Thats a #1 killer of motors. Especially turbo'ed ones.

The CEL has been throwing the EGR code since I bought it. That is why I changed both the sensors during the rebuild. It ran for mabe a week with out the light, then it turned back on.

The code for the super rich condition came up on the scanner as P0170, which is a "fuel trim malfunction" according to the generic code book that came with the reader. I cross-ref. the shop manual and I found P0171 and P0172, which are "fuel system rich" and "fuel system lean"

unfortunately I can't do the leak check because the car is on it's way to the dealer a lill early. (not my choice) So we'll see what they can find and I'll get back to ya.
Thanks,
EricT

You're welcome, make sure you check with us before you commit to their findings, they don't call them the stealerships for nothing. Good luck.

How do you go about adjusting an ISC?

Stapl3 said:

How do you go about adjusting an ISC?

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I guess what I meant to say is it's out of the ajustment range and needs to be replaced, good eye.

Ah. I wasn't calling you out or anything, just wondering if you knew something we all didn't.

Stapl3 said:

Ah. I wasn't calling you out or anything, just wondering if you knew something we all didn't.

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No problem, even if you were, as long as it's done in a repectful matter.

hey ya'll

well, I almost got the car back today. The EGR code was from a misplaced vaccum line, the stepper motor was replaced, and the air leak was coming from something under the mani. the guy at the dealership said the leak was something that passes water through the manifold to cool it down or something like that. But, when I was taking it for a test drive, it did the same thing after a few miles. Opened the hood and you could hear all the air running out by the mani. Took it back to the dealership and they said it was probably the same thing leaking under the mani.
I don't understand why it would break again? what even is this part that is giving me so much trobble?
On a happy note, the dealership told me that me and my girlfriend put the engine and tranny back in the car just as well as any technition that worked there could. yessssssss.
Thanks guys,
EricT

anyone know what that cooling thing they are talking about is?

I know that there is coolent circulated threw the TB on the bottom side, right before the intake manifold. as far as coolent thew the manifold, i havent ever noticed any thing there just the egr. i will go take a look at my stock manifold for u tonight and do my best to let u know tomorow some time.

rabidcrow said:

anyone know what that cooling thing they are talking about is?

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I have no clue what they're talking about and seems like neither do they. You should call back and get detail information, write everything down and post back. There are absolutely nothing that allows coolant to flow through the intake manifold for cooling, either they're BSing you or you mis-uderstood them, be precise.

sorry for not being precise.
I checked back with the dealer and found out it was the lower intercooler hose. Either I misunderstood or the person I talked to didn't really know what it was.
Thanks for all your help guys and I'm gonna get back to ya when I get enough money to up the boost a little bit.
EricT

Eric, that still doesn't make sense, lower intercooler pipe is no where near the intake manifold, unless they said intake pipe instead of manifold. I strongly suggest performing your own boost leak test. 70% of being a DSMer is about wrenching your DSM and this site is here for that exactly reason. There are still issues which needs to be dealt with before it becomes a bigger problem.

OK, so here is the lowdown. Sorry about making this so confusing. The pipe/hose that was causing the boost leak was about a 1/2 inch dia. tube that ran out from underneath the intake manifold. On the invoice it was called an "intercooler house" and cost 135.00
I know I probably got jacked on the price but it wasent really my decison to take the car to the dealership.
I'm going to make myself a boost leak tester this weekend and go through the car.
It's kinda hard for me to do much work myself, between my job and being a full student I put in 13 hour days. But we will see what this weekend has in store.
Thanks,
EricT

Ouch, the only hoses under the intake manifold are vacuum hoses and I hope you didn't pay $135 for that, even the brake booster line would not cost nearly as much, didn't I tell you to post before comitting to their findings . If they charge you $135 for a part they're now saying it's probably leaking again, demand that they replace it or give you a full refund, it's your money and your car, stand up for yourself.

Here's a link to boost leak test.