So what you are saying is that you 'personally' have a properly installed cyclone setup and you are pleased?

or this is your opinion.

Everyone has their own judgement, its pretty biased over is it worth it or not.
I had it running with JDM ecu and all the jdm goodies and really wasnt thrilled, i then swapped it to the usdm and noticed no less performance.

to each their own really.

Yeah, if you have one that is hooked up corectly can you draw us a diagram or give us instructions on how to hook it up...?

L'ville said:

Yeah, if you have one that is hooked up corectly can you draw us a diagram or give us instructions on how to hook it up...?

Click to expand...

Ever looked in the Tech Articles?

I made this diagram in MY article about the cyclone.


http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?&f=34

Yeah i saw that but i think that that's only with the JDM ECU, i don't have a jdm ECU nor do i have the butterfly actuator or is that the EGR that your using in that diagram... I have the white canister but not the butterfly actuator

This thread might help: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167168

and this one has really good information and colored pics: http://www.wideopenwest.com/~ksmith3289/faq/cyclone/gvr4cyclone.html

If you don't have a JDM ECU it's ok, DSMchips sells a modded EPROM chip that correctly opens the butterfly valve at the right RPM. But the option is only available on the Stage 3 chip, last time I checked. Hope those help. http://www.dsmchips.com/

You can also use DSMLink's Nitrous controls to control the FPR solenoid to open them.

That sounds a bit complicated I have already installed a 14b wastegate acuator mounted on the cyclone itself to open at what ever boost pressure I choose via a boost controller. So if I get 10 psi by 3000k I am going to want to reatard that signal so it opens around 3800-4000. When I get it on the car I may just use a bleeder T to regulate it depending how it responds. But the boost controller will work for sure. I know you can use DSMlink, wire this, run that, but that is too much work.
No, the acuator did not bolt right on, I spent about 4-5 hours and bending and tweeking the mounting holes just right to get it to work.
If you get full boost before 4000k I see no point in this mod. The cyclone does not flow more than a 1g intake, and once you have full boost you would want both chambers open anyhows for flow purposes. I want to do this mod in the assistance to help spool a big turbo. As one last side night, the range at where you want a change over seems to be around 3500-4000rpm regardless of make or model of car that uses variable intake plenums.

It's too much work to move the FPR solenoid and hook up a few vacuum lines? If you say so buddy. Sounds like it took you a lot longer to get your setup working than it really needed to be. Also, the system isn't meant to be activated at certain boost pressures, but engine load. Which is why using the nitrous controls in Link is at least somewhat more effective.

Hey,

Thanks for the several emails I got regarding this topic and people really wanting information. I had the tech article done and several people actually saw it well before I posted since Tuners has been down. It's funny becuase I finished it the same day they started doing the upkeep service / changes.

It is finally posted: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224551

Check it out, PM me with questions or whatnot.

Thanks.

PS - Pinder was all over me on this damn thing, I hope you are happy now dude!

If anyone has taken the time to pull a cyclone manifold apart they will notice a fair bit of miss match in the different sections, no wonder they dont flow as much as a stock manifold. A couple hours of gentle port work just to get the gaskets to match and mine gained 5 .6 cfm @ 28 inchs water vacuum at .420 lift on a mildly ported 1G with 1mm O/size valves on a superflow bench!!
I am all for the cyclone, i run a standalone which gives me control over RPM and boost as for when the secondarys open.
On a 2G instead of hogging the base of the port down to suit the manifold get someone to build a slight ramp of weld in the bottom of the manifold going in about 1" (there are epoxy resins now that you can also use 'Devcon' and then blend the ramp up to the 2G port base and match the top of the port by porting!!

blue1 said:

If anyone has taken the time to pull a cyclone manifold apart they will notice a fair bit of miss match in the different sections, no wonder they dont flow as much as a stock manifold. A couple hours of gentle port work just to get the gaskets to match and mine gained 5 .6 cfm @ 28 inchs water vacuum at .420 lift on a mildly ported 1G with 1mm O/size valves on a superflow bench!!
I am all for the cyclone, i run a standalone which gives me control over RPM and boost as for when the secondarys open.
On a 2G instead of hogging the base of the port down to suit the manifold get someone to build a slight ramp of weld in the bottom of the manifold going in about 1" (there are epoxy resins now that you can also use 'Devcon' and then blend the ramp up to the 2G port base and match the top of the port by porting!!

Click to expand...

That's some great info their blue, especially the ramping for use on a 2g head

I just to throw this in public, I use 3" intercooler pipes and a Cyclone with a Keydiver chip and all I've had is success. I have no issues with lag really since the dual runners pretty much compensates for the torque that I need low end. And I get to take advantage of the extra torque when I set my stutter box at 4,000 RPM. The only difference between 1G flow capacity and Cyclone flow capacity is1CFM!!!! unless you don't know how to get it to work properly stick to the 1G. But if you want the reward of "B-pillar skull cracking" low end, here you go...



If you need Cyclone part numbers lemme know

I wrote this up for a guy Xenocide to get him going right, and he loves it now.
Originally Posted by blue1
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/321988. Have a look at one of the photos with my set up. the two solenoids 1 is a normally open type and 1 is a normally closed type mine are powered from the stand alone to get psi/ rpm setting, where the EGT wire on yours does that to approx 3000rpm and a hobbs switch does the boost. when you work out what your egt wire does (gives 12v or earths ) it will be easy from there! the soleniod with the tee connection on the top is normally open (it needs power to shut it and the one that the cannister feeds into needs power to open it.
So if you get power from your EGT wire (12v) connect the two positive terminals to that!! and then connect the earth wire thru the hobb switch (sole' terminals one side and then from the other side term' on the hobbs switch connect to a good earth (on the motor). OR IF THE EGT EARTHS DO THE WIRING OPPOSITE TO WHAT I SAID RUN A POWER WIRE THRU THE HOBBS SWITCH TO THE 2 POS (+) TERMS' AND THE TWO EARTHS GO TO THE EGT WIRE!!
Do the vacuum plumbing exactly the way i have the is a oneway valve in that cannister for a reason!!!!!!!!
I got these soleniods off a volvo so they will not look like yours so dont panic! but do the same job (and i'm going to hide the setup under the battery.
Hope this helps keep me posted you will love the cyclone effect, i had mine connected straight to manifold at the start and thought that was good then i read the post on DSM talk and come up with this, i couldn't believe the difference its GOOD.
Mine actuates at 4200rpm and 12psi , eng temp 180f, Dont worry about the picture with the TMIC it now has a large FMIC
Good luck!!
Paul
Ps the picture is better than my crap drawing!!

Xenocides reply:That definitely seemed to work too! Like I said I was driving it before I made this change and the top end power got much better after I wired it up like that. I am very happy with the improvement; this had made a difference in how it feels to drive it every day and I am so glad I took the time to install the cyclone. Thanks again for all your help; I couldn't have done it without you!

i want purchase this intake manifold for my ride its a jdm cyclone manifold...for my 98 gsx...if you guys can help me decide if its worth it...i havent paid the guy yet ...beacuse i want to know if it cost too much to drop it in or if its jus a bolt on and if you think its worth it...he is asking for 230.00 shipped...i would appreciate it if you could help me ..here are all the details :

EXCELLENT CONDITION " JDM CYCLONE " INTAKE MANIFOLD MAKE IN JAPAN !!! THIS MANIFOLD WILL FIT 90-99 ECLIPSE TURBO, EAGLE TALON, AND PLYMOTH LAZER !!! THIS INTAKE MANIFOLD HAS BEEN HEAVILY PORTED AND POLISHED, POWDER COATED, AND HAS BEEN " PORT-MATCHED " IN EACH OF THE 8 RUNNERS !!! AS SEEN IN THE PICS, I ALSO HAVE THE GASKETS IN GREAT SHAPE. THE MACHINE SHOP TOOK THEIR TIME INTO REMOVING THEM BEFORE THE PORTING WORK WAS DONE !!! ALSO REMEMBER THAT THIS MANIFOLD HAS BUTTERFLYS INSIDE OF EACH RUNNER, AND WHEN THE BUTTERFLYS OPEN, YOU WILL HAVE 8 RUNNERS FLOWING INSTEAD OF JUST 4 LIKE THAT STOCK ECLIPSE MANILFOLD HAVE !!! YOU WILL NOTICE YOUR ECLIPSE, TALON OR LAZER PULL HARDER ON THE TOP END. YOUR TURBO WILL SPOOL UP QUICKER AND THE BOOST WILL PULL HARD ALL THE WAY TO REDLINE !!! YOU WILL NOT BE DISAPOINTED !!! THE WORK WAS DONE BY A WELL RESPECTED MACHINE SHOP CALLED WESTCOAST CYLINDER-HEAD, PORTING " I PAYED $ 300.00 TO HAVE THIS WORK DONE TO THIS MANIFOLD, AND I WAS TOLD BY OWNER "RICK" THAT THIS MANIFOLD WILL PRODUCE 30 TO 45 HP ON ANY ECLIPSE TURBO WITH THE RIGHT TURBO !!!

Well, the pic on the left is a cyclone mani, but the one on the right is NOT. You will also need all the misc valves and crap to open the 2ndary runners.

Oh. and the runner size is for a 1g head, not a 2g. So either have some portwork done, or do a headswap.

so what else would i need to drop this in my ride? is it like a direct drop in? do you think its worth the 230 dollars? ?

well the pic on the left its the part of the intake manifold that says cyclone turbo intercooler turned back...and it allready says its been ported so i need more porting??? and what parts did you say i needed again misc valves and so on???

$230 shipped is VERY high, although I'm sure the machining wasn't free. I've bought and sold unmolested Cyclones from anywhere from $25 to $75.

Keep in mind that you're signing yourself up for a bit of work to get it up and running; this is not a "drop-in" part. Specifically, you'll need to actuate the valves somehow (either with a hobbes switch, or some other actuating mechanism such as that provided by DSMLink or another aftermarket chip), and I don't see any mention of the "white canister" (a vacuum canister) that you'll need.

Search the forums for the word "cyclone", and you'll find quite a few relevant threads that will talk about what is involved in making this manifold work correctly. Here's a couple:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=224551
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167168

Also, the folks at GalantVR4.org have spent quite a bit of time and effort making these work. If you're a member over there, this thread details a lot of what is necessary.

(Edit: those are all pictures of a Cyclone intake manifold. It's just confusing because of the direction the various pieces of the manifold are facing. Boosted98gsx makes an excellent point: you would really want to have your 2g head ported to match the runners on the Cyclone, or swap to a 1g head, to avoid a pretty nasty intake airflow disturbance.)

so then you would say its not worth it? what would you recommend to upgrade intake manifold wise or some porting maybe or what?

Not worth it.

The ports on a 1g/cyclong Intake Manifold are huge compared to the 2g head, alot of porting has to be done in order to get them to line up, said porting screws up the angle at which the air hits the valve at. Plus the smaller runners on the 2g help keep the velocity up, generally velocity = HP.

Also looking at your mods, why do you even think you need to upgrade your Intake Manifold?

i dont know i was jus trying to get more hp with small upgrades you know try to do the best of everything...

The Cyclone isn't really about top-end performance: switching to it from an OEM intake manifold does more for your low-end responsiveness (ie. you should see spool gains with it, but that's about it). If higher-end horsepower gains are what you're looking for, an intake manifold really isn't going to do it for you right now.

At your level, some form of data logging and fuel tuning (if you don't have them; you don't mention a logger, SAFC, or anything similar in your profile) would probably be more beneficial than more "hard parts". Once you have a handle on how the car is tuned, cams and a bit more injector will probably be next, but that's really a guess (you should be right on the edge with those 550s and some variety of 16g, at least on pump gas).

Back to that manifold: when considering modifying your car's airflow (either in, via the intake, FMIC, intake manifold, BOV, headwork, etc; or out, via headwork, the exhaust manifold, turbine housing, O2 housing, downpipe, etc), always keep in mind that you're changing a system. Smooth flow of the air through the car is what creates horsepower, so always consider how flanges will mate together, where bottlenecks might be created, and how air will be directed in and out of your engine based on the surfaces involved. Anything that creates a huge step is generally a loss; so, in your case with the Cyclone and a 2g head, you'd have much smaller head ports than the ports on the manifold, and air would hit a solid wall right when you need velocity the most, at the valves.

So, if you really want that manifold, be prepared to make some head changes to accomodate it. Swapping to a 1g head works well, as does having someone carefully open up the inlet ports on a 2g head, although you'll probably be less than thrilled with the result of that (CanadianTSi is exactly right about it killing velocity due to how you'd have to shape the inlets). Also, be prepared to put a bit of work into making it work mechanically as well; refer to the threads I mentioned above to see what will be needed.

Good luck.

nah im not gonna do the manifold then it would jus be a waste of money...and yah i got a safc 2 ....maybe i didnt put it up...thought i did...but maybe not i also did put another thread up maybe you can also help with that if you can if so thanks for your time anyways for this thread

Boosted98gsx said:

Well, the pic on the left is a cyclone mani, but the one on the right is NOT. You will also need all the misc valves and crap to open the 2ndary runners.

Oh. and the runner size is for a 1g head, not a 2g. So either have some portwork done, or do a headswap.

Click to expand...

Which picture are you saying isn't the cyclone? Just curious.

Shiat you want a cyclone I have one of those POS in my garage pay the shipping its yours!