I have heard that a light flywheel coupled with a stiff clutch accelerates CW...

hey thanks man, that site just cleared everything up, looks like i dont have to worry about crankwak as much anymore
thanks again bro

l8er

I've done alot of reading about crankwalk. One of the theories being that it is related to the clutch( pushing the clutch in when you start the car). Does anyone know if automatic transmission cars have a lower percentage of crankwalk than manuals?

YES! do a search

Originally posted by dsmstunna
YES! do a search

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hey calm down.... this is the newb section and repeated questions are common.... yes autos do have a lower crankwalk occurance but it can still happen.... crankwalk is overdone... when buying a car dont think about the crankwalk because there is a good chance that you will never get it and crankwalk is not a terminal thing for your engine... a lot of crankwalk can be fixed if you catch it early enough....

Ive seen write ups on how to check the manuels but nothing on an auto.

since ive had the car I always have to press the brake extra hard to put the thing in park and pull my key out, and on occasion I am getting a ticking noise, started out in the morning but now it is there more often even when it's warmed!!

Dont know what to do, I have a lift, a shop I can go to, but I need to know how to check and measure for crank walk on me auto. Thanks.


Chris.

No. The ticking is normal, don't know about the brake thing.

Your chances of your motor crankwalking with an auto tranny is between slim and none because you have no clutch assembly pushing against the flywheel and crankshaft to prematurely wear out the thrust bearing. Not saying that it can't happen, but your chances are slim. BTW, are you sure that the ticking noise you hear isn't lifter tick?

As far as problems with your key and shifter, check your key interlock cable and shift lock cables. The Haynes manual has steps on how to troubleshoot the system in chapter 7B. With the effort needed to move your shifter or remove your key, it sounds like the cables need to be adjusted, which is in the manual as well.

have to pick up a haynes, damn those bad dogs were a bill last time I checked.

As for the tic, would the old screw driver against the ear trick work? Or does the tic of death sound similar to valve tic?

14.5 drift said:

have to pick up a haynes, damn those bad dogs were a bill last time I checked.

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Jesus, where do you shop? They're all over eBay for ten bucks, or a set of factory books for forty.

You don't have crankwalk.

Fella's, how do I measure an automatic for crankwalk?

14.5 drift said:

Fella's, how do I measure an automatic for crankwalk?

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The same way you would on a M/T. You use a dial indicator and test it that way. There is a vfaq somewhere for this. Don't assume it's crankwalk though. I have an A/T that sat in the drive for over a year because I thought it was walked. Come to find out that the reason the CAS died was because of a loose crank bolt. Now I have to get it back together and sell it

hmmmm, every write up ive seen says the clutch has to be in, how to I free the trans from the flywheel in an automatic?

Just wondering if anyone here with an automatic GSX or GST has ever had a problem with crankwalk?

I think my friend is having that problem, as the car won't start and I'm watching the timing belt hop a little bit. I don't think its the tensionor because its on there pretty good and wont' get any tighter.l

You can definately hear the noise coming from the timing belt side of the head though, and while it sounds like it wants to crank over, we get nothing.

Anyone with info on this could they please PM me, Thanks alot.

Theoretically it's impossible to get crankwalk on an AT car. The really is no pressure on the crankshaft.

You need to remember that there are 2 things that set the timing belt tension. The essentric pulley is what actually sets the initial tension on the belt. The hydraulic 'adjuster' is actually there to maintain tension on the belt during rpm and load changes. Usually when the hydraulic 'adjuster' fails (usually when some knucklehead cranks it down too fast in a vise), it will no longer be able to maintain that tension and makes quite a racket until you hit certain rpms. I believe that is your problem. Easy check is to unbolt the adjuster and try to depress it with your thumb or fingers. If you can move it, it's junk.

Also, the lack of tension can cause the timing belt to jump time. Meaning no start, hard start and even worse....bent valves. It only takes a single turn of the starter to bend all 16 valves.

Napa carries the adjuster for a whopping $95.00, which is a bit cheaper than Satan.

Wiz

Wizard said:

Theoretically it's impossible to get crankwalk on an AT car. The really is no pressure on the crankshaft.

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It can happen to an auto and manual, however, it's more prone to happen on manuals.

I'm starting to think that the belt might have jumped its timing.

But I'm thinking the actual problem now exsists in the head. As my friend was driving it around and started hering loud popping sounds at high rpms we came to the conclusion that it was leaning out after we found an un attached vac line that tells the fpr to raise the boost 1:1. I'm guessing from that that he did something to the head.

Well find out more on friday when we can really take it apart.

Thanks for the help guys.

Yes A/T's get crankwalk...

they can and mine did, its a perfect reason to go 6-bolt.

My 1995 TSI has never lost a crank sensor, but for the heck of it when I put a vice grip on the crank bolt and push/pull I get a very small click/clack from end play movement. I know I need to measure it but I need to find a dial indicator first. Anyhow, is it true auto trans cars rarely get crank walk? And as a general rule with 140k miles, should I be concerned with a small bit of crank end play such as this? Even though it was never enough end play to have ever taken the crank sensor out?