"Ebay short shifter" it's the same as the b&m for quater of the price.

As for the motor mounts, I would get the Prothane mounts, ONLY if you do not mind the extra vibration and stiffness of everything.

I do NOT recommend poly engine mount's if your not planing on heavily modding your car. Yes, It well help prevent wheel hop. It will shake the whole car at idle and when driving anything that can rattle will rattle. All in All poly mounts are not meant for the faint of heart. replace the stock ones if your just building a quick car to zoom around town.

I Love my poly mounts, But then again.. Another thread member bought them and bitched about them that they were to ''stiff''

honestly I just bought and installed a set of poly motor/tranz mounts and I have never felt a car idle more smothe. NO vibrations at all..... it's solid and I LOVE it!!! If your gona replace it, make it an upgrade!

speed127 said:

honestly I just bought and installed a set of poly motor/tranz mounts and I have never felt a car idle more smothe. NO vibrations at all..... it's solid and I LOVE it!!! If your gona replace it, make it an upgrade!

Click to expand...

I too love my poly mount's but I honestly think your fibbing and misleading saying you had no extra vibration. I still stick by what i said in my first post if your not making a FAST car don't bother with the mounts. they WILL cause vibration in the Cabin. Maybe im just being sexist in my head thinking what girl would want her car to shake and rattle a bit more, how far do you plan on taking this car? what are your realistic goals?

I def want more upgraded mods on my car and hopefully look to race it one day at the track. In the future when I get some extra money, I would love to put a bigger a turbo in it...but for now I am doing small upgrades until I can get the money for larger ones.. any suggestions?

Sure, Here you go:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/

And here you go:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/suspension.php

this might sound really stupid, but I am gonna get a new BOV as well for my car. So to avoid possible problems with idle, I've heard that you need a BOV that recirculates back into the intake and I was wondering if the 1g BOV did this feature?? just wondering...don't wanna do nothin on my car that I might regret later on down the road. If I'm gonna do it, I wanna do it right. So give me ya'lls opinions and tell me if I'm on the right track! thanks!!

Yes, A 1g blow off valve recirculates. Most all blow off valves can actually be recirculated. A 1g blow off valve would be the cheapest though, And would hold up to what you want to do..

Ok. First thing first. Do your maintenence before you start ANY mods. Make sure the fluids are good, oil is fresh, whats your mileage? You may be needed a new timing belt soon. You probably don't need motor mounts JUST yet, what i'd suggest as your first mods are: Boost Gauge- Autometer are the cheapest, but from what i've heard Defi, Apex'i, or Greddy are better; next you'll want a boost controller of some sort. Whether it be manual or electronic, it depends on what kinda money you have to spend, etc. Manual have to be adjusted by hand, driven, and readjusted until you get it right. I'm not exact on how electric ones work, but i'd think you just tell it how much PSi you want and there you go it does it for you. You're looking at 50-150 for a MBC, and about 300-500 for an EBC. Also probably 60-140 for the gauge. Next intake, get rid of the stock airbox for a cone feature air filter. K&N are great filters, then replace the stock accordian with a metal intake tube. ExtremePsi.com sells a set w/ everything you need and an airfilter for 150, Injen sells a set for about 250, and there are alot others. Now you'll probably want a 1g or aftermarket BOAfter that you'll want to get exhaust. Depending on what HP you want decides how big you want your exhuast. For about 400 or less 2.5, any higher than that you want 3.0 inch exhaust. Start with the Cat-back, then a highflow cat/test pipe, then the downpipe, lastly the O2 sensor housing. Next you'll want to get a UICP at the minimum, and if you have the money, then a full FMIC kit. Slowboyracing.com sells a great kit for a 2g for about 875 with all the equipment you need, just gotta cut your frame a little bit, etc. After UICP you can look at a new turbo, either 14b, 16g, etc. The higher you go in turbo the more you'll need also. With the higher 16gs you'll need more fuel, so you'll need fuel pumps, injectors, logging, etc. Also being FWD to put that power down, now you start looking at the poly motor mounts, the suspension, the LSD, and then Slicks. Correct me if I got anything wrong.

Cliffs:
1. Maintence! Maintenence! Maintenence!
2. Boost Gauge
3. Boost Controller
4. Intake
5. BOV
6. Turbo-back exhaust
7. UICP
8. fuel
9. Turbo
10. Suspension, Motor Mounts, LSD.

No use turning up the boost if the stock blow off valve is going to leak. Also, I would get an exhaust if turning the boost up. No use trying to turn the boost up if you have the stock exhaust.. It might be a bit faster, But go blow through a ''coffee straw'' then a '' regular straw''. Also, A fuel pump before turning up the boost is also another thing I would purchase... And, A logger. Each thing really goes hand in hand.

well I am getting ready to change my alternator belt as well as two other belts down in the same area and yes I do agree, I think my timing belt does need to be changed because I don't think that it ever has been before. I just don't have the money right now. I have a downpipe and apexi 3" exhaust on my car currently now as well as an aftermarket intake. My boost gauge isn't working right but I am getting ready to buy a new autometer and put that in. Also I am going to purchase a turbo timer as well. So you all are saying that I don't need motor mounts at the moment?? I am looking in to a FMIC...which brands would you all suggest and about how much do they run?? Oh, the reason I am changing my alternator belt is because it squels really bad when I start my car up and continues sometimes while I am driving. I was told that this was the alternator belt and that I needed a new one. Do you all think this is the problem or could it be something else?? Thank you all for the help and suggestions....

If you don't plan on changing your turbo for a while then i wouldn't recommend an fmic for you at all. They are pretty expensive for a kit, but if you think you can make you own piping then you can get one for as little as 200 if you get a good deal on the core. IMO I would take the money you would use for an FMIC and get injectors, a fuel pump, an AFC and a logger so when you do decide to slap on a bigger turbo you'll be ready

Just get the ebay short route fmic kit that there is a 35page thread on, Search for it.. Then buy the fmic kit if you want one.