I am in the process of installing a 2600 and i just shimmed the pivot ball. If I act as the slave cylinder and manually move the clutch fork the TOB will travel too far im assuming and get stuck in the disengaged position. What im wondering is will the slave cylinder rod actually move it this far or is it just that i can force it to travel further by hand? I placed 1 washer behind the pivot ball. Any one experience or have any knowledge please help shed some light.

Spln_Hrd said:

I am in the process of installing a 2600 and i just shimmed the pivot ball. If I act as the slave cylinder and manually move the clutch fork the TOB will travel too far im assuming and get stuck in the disengaged position. What im wondering is will the slave cylinder rod actually move it this far or is it just that i can force it to travel further by hand? I placed 1 washer behind the pivot ball. Any one experience or have any knowledge please help shed some light.

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I honeslt woulnd't even mess with shimming anything. Go to the dealer and get a new ball and fork and call it a day. When I got mine it was around 80.00 for both. The shimming is just a bandaid for worn out parts that will just get worse. Fist it right fix it once.


I honestly could figure out what you are talking about but gave my .02 anyway.

I was afraid of that. If I move the clutch fork from outside the tranny to the point where it cant move any further the TOB will fall off the shaft and actually get stuck and wont slide back down towards the bell housing. Does that make better sense?

Spln_Hrd said:

I was afraid of that. If I move the clutch fork from outside the tranny to the point where it cant move any further the TOB will fall off the shaft and actually get stuck and wont slide back down towards the bell housing. Does that make better sense?

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Yes that makes more sense.

You are moving it mroe than the slave cylinder would most likely. I wuold just bolt the slave back on and see how much it moves and compare it with how much you have moved. I know a few people that have shimmed the ball and they tend to not have the problem you are describing.

I had to shim mine after I had the flywheel turned. The whole idea is to keep the arm centered in the window when the tranny is bolted back onto the block with the clutch and pp in place. Unfortunatley the only way to really know if you need to do it or not is to bolt the tranny back up. Before I shimmed it the pedal would stop prematurely because the fork was hitting the case, severely shortening its travel. If I remember right there is an article on VFAQ about it.

The t.o.b. is moving too far when you do it by hand because (a) there isn't a clutch ass'y ahead of it to stop it, and (b) the slave cylinder doesn't move that far anyway.

I wouldn't worry about it. The pressure plate would be holding it [TOB] on anyways.