does anyone have a write up on a fuel pump install on a 1g AWD?

i would think it would be no different than my friends SRT-4?

1. take out strap bolts
2. have jack underneath tank
3. lower down slowly the tank
4. take fuel pump assembly out

correct?? also where are the fuel pumps on the tank? on the top??

Nope, your way off. Yes, its in the top of the tank, but the tank doesn't need dropped.

Welcome to VFAQ, its your best friend.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-1GAWD2-print.html

It's a lot "easier" than dropping the tank. I dunno about everyone else, but when I first changed my pump, I didn't have that many problems getting those fittings apart. I sprayed em down with PB Blaster about a half hour before and let it soak and they came off all right. the biggest thing you have to be careful of is bending or breaking the lines. So keep them as straight as possible and spray em down and it shouldn't be too much of a problem. But keep in mind, you still will have to put some pressure even if you spray em down because of how old they are.

Other than that, just follow the vfaq because the 1g awd is probably the easiest fuel pump change there is because you don't gotta drop the tank. It took me about an hour and a half to do. Then again, I guess my lines weren't as stuck as others... so be prepared for a lil extra time than that just in case.

project_tsi said:

Welcome to VFAQ, its your best friend.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-1GAWD2-print.html

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FTW ^^^. Changing DSM fuel pumps are cake. Follow the VFAQ all the way. I'd recommend cutting the bell housing that the outlet of the pump plugs into off, then running a hi-press/fuel line from the outlet port of the pump, to the metal line left after you chop the bell housing off (if it doesn't seat 100% perfect, you'll have problems at startup). Use good hose clamps too, not cheapos.

Definitely a cakewalk. I had no problems using flares to remove the fitting that everyone else seems to have problems with, but did break a couple studs holding the gasket on the tank on my '91 last summer. Might want to soak the fittings and gasket studs down with some PB or equivalent before attempting removal. Also be sure you look in the tank and that it is all clean, or suck out any garbage that might be floating around in there.

i had some problems in my 92 with that fitting from hell so after a bit of swearing.OK A LOT OF SWEARING!! I chopped it off and used high pressure fuel line and clamps.I left extra line so had some slack to work on the pump if needed to do any future messing and glad I did as had something happen to my fuel level sender.
Once the fitting was cut off it was cake.The fittings can be nice or they can be bitches..hmm sounds a lot like women.

where did you cut the fitting at? because i can't break mine loose for my 190 for the life of me. im half tempted to just take it to my mechanic and tell him to break it for me.

It was last year on my 92.Can't remember exactly but just leave enough tube on both sides to simply put in high pressure rubber fuel line. That fitting was put there by the devil!!
Mine was all twisting up anyway when got mad at it as nothing would break it free.
Hell with it..and use like a foot of rubber hose not a few inches even better for when you pull the pump out of there.I think I cut it up on fitting on pump side and then crawled under and cut it a foot down or so. I think used one of the little circle pipe cuttings rather than hacksaw..worked good..

so after the cut did you just slip the rubber line on the remaining metal line, or did you use little hose clamps too? Because if i can get away with just hacking that F-ing fitting i could live happy. The only thing i'd be concerned about is a higher pressure pump popping the new rubber line loose.

i accidently twisted my hard fuel line, and had to get a new top piece from a junk yard. it seems as if this is a common problem. ebay these sell for quite a bit, but devil sells it for like 500 bucks ( just for laughs i wanted a quote) what i did was put a wrench in the hardline and put a block of wood under the line so it didnt move. everything is OK now.

yeah, i tried before the winter and i couldn't get the thing loose. and i used about half a can of PB on both fittings. neither broke loose. so either it's going to be a nice hack job, or ill just have my mech. break it open for me.

i wouldn't mind seeing what that rubber hose looks like back there now though. cutting the fittings from hell sounds kinda fun.

staticbrainwash said:

so after the cut did you just slip the rubber line on the remaining metal line, or did you use little hose clamps too? Because if i can get away with just hacking that F-ing fitting i could live happy. The only thing i'd be concerned about is a higher pressure pump popping the new rubber line loose.

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Definitly use hose clamps. Not the cheap Home Depot worm clamp style, but more like the mini-T-bolt clamp style ones that won't eventually eat through the hose or possibly come loose in the future. You can find them at Napa.

As for where to cut the bell housing off at, just cut as much as you need to get the housing off. Don't cut the metal line all the way off at the top. Instead, get enough line to reach from the fuel pump outlet, to the very top of the metal line. Then use a clamp or two on each side.

do a lot of people end up cutting like this? this is the first i've heard of it.

which is going to be more reliable, the stock stupid line, or new high press. fuel line hose clamped to the metal line?

staticbrainwash said:

do a lot of people end up cutting like this? this is the first i've heard of it.

which is going to be more reliable, the stock stupid line, or new high press. fuel line hose clamped to the metal line?

Click to expand...

It's just easier to do the line. Like I said, if the rubber gasket on the outlet of the fuel pump is not seated correctly, it will either leak, or disrupt fuel delivery through. The very last time I left the bellhousing on, the gasket did not seat perfect. The result was delayed starting. I pulled the pump back out, cut the bell housing off, put a line and clamps on, and the problem was gone. Ever since then, I have installed fuel pumps this way. I have done probably right around a dozen this way with no problems at all.

any pics i could see so i know what to do for sure, im going to try this this weekend. we have a heatwave of 54*. more than warm enough for a fuel system upgrade.

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-1GAWD-print.html

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/wayback/1GFWD-pump.htm

This one meantions the problems I meantioned if the o-ring does not seat correctly:
http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-1GAWD2-print.html

not sure if anyone else has this problem, but i did two fuel pump install and both times the Philips screws were rounded off...

When i did min ei couldn't get the nut on the fuel line right out of the fuel pump assembly cracked. I ended up going under the car to the next one maybe a foot further down the line like mentioned in the awd vfaq. Also be careful when your connecting the positive and maybe the negative (it's been awhile since i've done this) wires connect to the top of the fuel pump housing on the inside. There tiny little nuts (maybe 8's). My buddy twisted just alittle to hard and snapped the threads right off. I then had to drill through the top and connect the power wire outside of the fuel tank because i couldn't find an awd fuel pump housing anywhere for a week or so.