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New SBR Manifold w/ External Wastegate

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CSEclipse said:
i wanted to get a setup like yours... i didnt see a answer for the above post, i was wondering how it helped spool time too???


And if you read my post, I switched to a new turbo at the same time so I can't comment. I do make 20psi at 3800 rpm on my Green, 2 litre 8.5:1 compression, seems about average with everyone else running a Green.
 
Nice man congrats I have one on order also. How much further from the block would you say this sets the Turbo over the stock 2g Manifold? I need more clearance for the PTE 50 trim.
 
TSi999 said:
Nice man congrats I have one on order also. How much further from the block would you say this sets the Turbo over the stock 2g Manifold? I need more clearance for the PTE 50 trim.
Not to tangent too much, but with a 2G manifold and my AGP L2 (same footprint as an FPGreen), swapping to an NT waterpipe gave me all the room I needed.

If you already have the 2G manifold and paid for a new waterpipe (~$35) and had a Tial38 flange welded to the manifold (~$50), you'd still come ahead $214 (the cost of a brand new Tial38 ;) ) :dsm:
 
DSM90AWD said:
Not to tangent too much, but with a 2G manifold and my AGP L2 (same footprint as an FPGreen), swapping to an NT waterpipe gave me all the room I needed.


If you already have the 2G manifold and paid for a new waterpipe (~$35) and had a Tial38 flange welded to the manifold (~$50), you'd still come ahead $214 (the cost of a brand new Tial38 ;) ) :dsm:

Did you not see the pics comparing the manifolds, besides the clean look of one molded piece, the size of the porting throughout. looks like alot more flow to me:thumb: On my 1g it puts about a 1/4 inch gap between the compressor housing and waterpipe.(SCM50)
 
pboglio said:
Why did they cast/machine/port the center flow divider down? If thats the case, it is by far the single worst thing you can do for spool up & power. Maybe it just looks like it in the picture. The pic looks like it is taken down almost 2/3rds. I hope that is not the case, cause I'd otherwise be very interested in it.


If you don't cut the divider down too much, I believe it helps. On my Evo III mani, I shaved about 1/3 of the divider down, then grinded the edge of the divider into a "V" shape, or like a knifes edge. I do this with any mani I port, and I haven't noticed any ill effects or longer spool difference compared to one with the wall untouched.

I do agree however that if the divider is ground down too much, that it would cause the entering exhaust from the two runners on each side to basically collide, or slap into eachother before exiting the collector.
 
Is there a tech article or walk through on how to mount an external wg on my evo3 manni?
 
~laser_craver~ said:
Is there a tech article or walk through on how to mount an external wg on my evo3 manni?

If you send it in to SBR with a flange, they will do the job for about $75. Welding things to cast iron that sees the temperature ranges that our manifolds see is tricky.
 
I think the SBR manifold is a nice piece. But for me. I'd only consider it if was going to replace my cast manifold anyway given it's nearly double the cost of a 2G/EVO manifold (and $200 less than a DNP SS Tubular unit).

~laser_craver~ said:
:sneaky: I'll be headed up to pina for a full 3 inch exhaust soon. Im excited!
Pina does awesome work. Why not just save up and have them do an O2 mounted WG with dump into the exhaust :confused: The O2 mount takes exhaust equally from all four cyls which is a nice bonus :dsm:
 
Because i have creep right now... and can get a whole steup for on the manifold for 170 bucks. And i am saving the cash to get my exhaust from pina, because it is costly.:D I just want to fix my creep, and my waterpump leak, and get a real air intake then ill go get my exhaust from pina. Because where i am in the level of mods i have i can feel the stock exhaust holding me back sevearly. Even with the testpipe and magnaflow muffler. :toobad:
 
I am considering changing from my DNP exhaust for a cast manifold. My Holset with Bullseye turbine is just too heavy for the DNP. What I would like to know is the SBR cast mani at $299. considered the best or what about the manifolds sold cheaply at like $149. to $169. That turbochargers.copm and others are now selling?
Does this SBR flow well as again I have a large turbo to spool. I want to get the best for my application. Thanks, mark
 
nice very nice, where did you get those thin ass fans? they are thin as shit!
 
sorry to resurrect an old thread.....do you have to use the slim fans with the 38mm tial WG? if so, where did you get those fans at GstRacer?
 
the FAL fans are kinda pricey but they work awesome and look great they runa bout 400 dollars and i got min from horsepwerfreaks.com but you can find them al over the place and they fit with the 38mm setup as you can see in my pic
 
heineken said:
sorry to resurrect an old thread.....do you have to use the slim fans with the 38mm tial WG? if so, where did you get those fans at GstRacer?


I had to use a slim fan on the drivers side. I picked up the highest flowing Spal 12" from RRE. I think it was around 115 shipped. Works like a charm.
 
awesome thanks for the info guys
 
This is an old one, but it is the best one.

I am going to do this same setup, so big props to the threadstarter for stepping up with the pics. For now I will be using this on an EvoIII with a welded 34mm flapper so I can hold more boost.

Does it matter wear the dump tube is rerouted back in to the DP? Does it effect performance either way? I really don't think I want the sound of an external dump.
 
GPTourer said:
This is an old one, but it is the best one.

I am going to do this same setup, so big props to the threadstarter for stepping up with the pics. For now I will be using this on an EvoIII with a welded 34mm flapper so I can hold more boost.

Does it matter wear the dump tube is rerouted back in to the DP? Does it effect performance either way? I really don't think I want the sound of an external dump.


I doubt you'd see any difference in performance. Make the entrance into the DP at an angle that leads with the exhaust going out already. What I mean is don't have it come in perpendicular to the exhaust path.
 
Here's what mine looks like and hopefully the picture is bright enough so that you can tell that it comes in at a 90 degree angle at the very front of the downpipe. I'm not sure how much it disrupts flow, but the car spooled and pulled the same before and after the re-route. Just make sure that if you do it like this that the dump tube doesn't protrude directly into the downpipe as that would certainly disrupt flow. Mine is flush cut and welded.

The only thing I would have liked is mandrel bent pipe, but the shop I went to only had provisions for press bending.
 

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Thanks for the advice, and the pics. The only other option I thought of was using a dump with a tiny motorcycle muffler, and try exiting out of the side of the vehicle.
 
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