500 miles ago i just installed my FULLY BUILT FWD 2G stage 2 tranny with fidanza flywheel and new 2600 ACT with unsprung 4 puck.

All has been well and the tranny is shifting well, however I have just recenty noticed an issue.

I have taken it very easy on tranny and clutch and there has been NO grinding so keep that in mind, also I have used 2.5 qrts of mobil 1 full synthetic 75W-90 tranny fluid for break in.

Issues:

1. 400 miles drained tranny, noticed fine metallic shavings on magnetic drain plug.

Is this NORMAL!!!!!

2. 450 miles while car is in neutral standing still or in gear moving with clutch fully engaged, there is a very light sqeeling noise coming from the tranny side of the engine bay.....once the clutch pedal has been pressed in approx 2 in from fully engaged the sqeeling goes away.......remember that this noise is a VERy LIGHT sqeeling....however audiable.

Tell me what you all think it is, tom i am going to drain the fluid again and see if there is more metallic particals on the drain plug,

What do you all think I should do......considering I just dropped over 3000 in my drivetrain and this supposivly SUPER TRANNY is already @#$$@%$ UP, I will be one @$^&!$ OFF dude!!!!!!!!!

I don't know, But I was going to be getting the same tranny at the end of march.. I'll definatly keep looking at this thread now as my tranny is coming out this coming weekend...

The fine shavings are normal, thats why Shep puts the magnet on the drain plug. If there was not supposed to be shavings, the magnet would not be there. All manual transmissions are going to have fine shavings in the fluid, you just don't see them because they are floating around instead of sticking to the magnet. The magnet did its job, it kept the fine shavings away from moving parts. As for the noise, I don't know what it is, but I can tell you my tranny does not make noise.

Did you use the ACT TOB? If you did that is going to be the cause of your noise. ACT is known for there TOB going out. I was check that as soon as you can. It will do a lot more damage than you want if you don't. And yes some metal shavings are normal on new transmissions while they are still new. Gears are going to wear just a touch before they all settle. Also I never would have gone with a 4 puck unsprung clutch. That is VERY harsh on your drivetrain. Even with your mods a street disc would have held for everything you could throw at it. Be prepared to break axle's and whatnot with that harsh engagment when launching.

I would also give shep a call...i have delt with him before and he is very knowledgeable and has great customer service....

Sounds like the TOB. Especially since you said it goes away when you depress the clutch. That will put enough pressure on the TOB to make the noise stop.

You need to replace the throwout bearing. Don't use those crappy ACT ones, get an new OEM throwout bearing. The metal shavings are normal.

This sucks.......I tell you what peoples of the DSM world, I dont know about you all, but this @#$# is bull. It seems to me that no matter how much money you pay for aftermarket, supposivly "better" parts, you always get ripped anyway........in my case ACT right now. Your telling me, that with only 500 miles of easy driving, that throwout bearing is going bad, that is so hard to believe.

I was under the impression that TOB's make there noise once the clutch is DISENGAGED, because if the bearings inside the TOB are going bad they would make noise under the pressure of pushing against the pressure plate, because once the clutch is let out and the TOB is released from the pressure plate it does not even really ride on the pressure plate does it.

What makes the ACT's TOB go bad......I just dont get it!!!!!!!!!

After reading several threads about this issue I have come to the conclusion that this s just one of those issues that everyone has there opinion about. Metal versus plastic sleeved, blah blah....BOTTOM LINE, I am going to keep the bearing in there, I dont think there is anything wrong with the bearing, I think I just either have the clutch pedal assembly adjusted to far in or the new slave cylinder extension rod might be putting the TOB lightly onto the pressure plate causing the little bit of noise.

What will happen if I use the stock slave cylinder rod with a 2600, never tried it ...... or do you think that I need to adjust the actual engagment position @ the pedal or the pedal play up where the clutch safty switch is?????

Let me know????

boostyGST said:

BOTTOM LINE, I am going to keep the bearing in there, I dont think there is anything wrong with the bearing, I think I just either have the clutch pedal assembly adjusted to far in or the new slave cylinder extension rod might be putting the TOB lightly onto the pressure plate causing the little bit of noise.

What will happen if I use the stock slave cylinder rod with a 2600, never tried it ...... or do you think that I need to adjust the actual engagment position @ the pedal or the pedal play up where the clutch safty switch is?????

Let me know????

Click to expand...

The extended slave rod does nothing for you. Take it out. If it does work, you've misadjusted the master cylinder, which is bad.

Yes, you need to get the engagment postion correct, otherwise it'll never work with a 2600 correctly.

a plastic sleeve bearing came with my act 2600 last february. I was under the impression that act had fixed their tob problems.

Oem throwout bearing bar none. Somethings are always better to buy from the factory.

Had you done any research on the tob issue before hand you would've found thousands of posts telling you to go OEM over ACT.

I'm curious why you chose the 4 puck unsprung hub disc though? The street disc would've been plenty assuming your profile is up to date.

I have taken it very easy on tranny and clutch and there has been NO grinding so keep that in mind, also I have used 2.5 qrts of mobil 1 full synthetic 75W-90 tranny fluid for break in.

Click to expand...

That is not the correct type of fluid to use. It is a GL5 fluid. You need GL4. If it says it meets GL4 and GL5 specs then it is not the correct fluid. GL5 fluids will tear up your synchros.

yes i would have to agree with everyone else here, i would say it is the TOB. and i would without a doubt go with the oem tob.

Before putting my transmision in, I called Shep and asked him what kind of fluid to use. He told me royal purple is what he suggests if you will be beating the trasmission hard. I asked about GM syncromesh, he said that is also fine, which is what I am using.

That's what he told me as well.

REdline Heavyweight or Lightweight, Royal Purple, GM Syncromesh, and BG Syncroshift are all acceptable transmission fluids.

I thought ACT fixed their TOB's to be like OEM ones now...

Dream On said:

I thought ACT fixed their TOB's to be like OEM ones now...

Click to expand...

I hope so, since I just bought one.

the throwout bearing was a NSK, just found that out, i think all it is, is that the slave extension rod is allowing the TOB is just bearly touch the pressure plate causing just a minor intermitent sqeek, going to go back to factory rod and adjust pedal.......

Can anyone give me the correct adjustment diagonosis......I am pushing over 400whp that why I went with 4 puck, an I did not feel like taking that damn tranny out again after the street disc blew apart....!!! So I say screw it .

I will have to check the fluid, but I am very confinent that mobil 1 is good to go as well, does anyone have a bottle of it on hand to tell me if it is good or not, car is not moving until I know for sure, so let me know ASAP!!!!

With normal driving and it if it is the wrong fluid, 500 miles, do you think it hurt anything.

Not to be rude, but It sounds like you just bought parts and haven't really researched. Teh four puck is a bit much even at 400 WHP. The fluid you are using isn't recommended by Shep. I would put what has already been recommended and not worry. My Shep tranny shifts like butter and I use GM Sychromesh.

well I realize that, but again I dont think you realize my point, see I always look toward the future, in the likelyhood that I do a upgrade to the motor or turbo set up then I will have the driveline to back it up........besides I have heard some nightmare stories on this board about the springs on the street disc blowing apart, so I just again did not want to take that chance.

I have to replace the fluid anyway because the gears should have meshed together by now, so I think I will go with the syncromesh.

By the way, the 4-puck engagement is not all that harsh on the driveline, @ least not on my car, you slip the clutch normally from 2000 rpm's you receive a slight little half sec chatter and thats really it. All and all fun as hell to drive.

HAHA

your axles are going to snap or your transfer case will blow before you can overload a act 2600 with a street disk.

dont have stock axles and to BAD i dont have AWD!!

As always it is best to contact us with any issues before posting. Doing so will save us both time and aggravation. The magnet we use is very strong and it is normal to have fine shavings on it.

We never recommend using a slave cyl extension rod either. Find the cause of the problem instead of trying to cover it up.

thanks
John