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Need a new turbo. HELP!

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weaver

15+ Year Contributor
72
0
Feb 22, 2006
Asheville, North_Carolina
I just took my car to the mitsubishi dealer because my spyder gst was smokin pretty bad. They told me the turbo bearing were shot and oil had filled my intercooler. Said it would take $1800 to repair:cry: !!! I'm no expert on turbos by a longshot but this seems pretty darn steep for a stock turbo. I am thinking about buying my own turbo and installing it with some help from a mechanic friend. The only mods I have are a 1g bov @ intake w pipe. I have every intention of upgrading everything else, but the turbo went out as I was just starting my upgrades. I know there are alot of supporting mods needed for a larger turbo and I plan to do them, but my money has to go to a new turbo right now. What would ya'll recommend for a car with my setup? I want room to grow and do not want to buy another turbo down the road. I've done some reading, but can't seem to find another thread with this kind've situation. Please help!!!
 
Fill in your profile as to what year, mods, etc. it will make it easier for peeps to help. And you are correct in assuming 1800.00 is a bit much. Happy boosting!
 
Wow $1800 is outrageous.Do not pay that do it yourself and have your friend help you.I would buy a 16g of some type.depending on your goals you can choose from the three they offer.With stock fuel you will have to run low boost.I would say get an evo316g,but they tend to have bad boost creep and you dont want that on a stock fuel system.You can port it correctly to cure it and if you get a 34mm flapper mod done when you buy it that will help alot.There is a thread that shows you how to port it correctly.With the stock exhaust it may not creeep,but when you upgrade the exhaust you will need to fix it.
 
This should answer your questions about what mods are neccessary for your plans.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/tuning-guide/2gturbo/

sorry I just re-read your post. In that case if you can afford the 1800 then here is a good plan of action.

SBR e316g 2g kit- 900 (i think it still is that much right now.) It comes with their cast mani, turbo, and install kit
BOOST GAUGE (unless you already have one) 30
Fuel and tuing mods with the rest.


worry about the rest later as long as you keep the boost around stock level.
 
if i were you i would just buy a cheapy t25 out of the classifieds, just bolt it inplace of your shot turbo? seems alot easier and cheaper for a quick fix. get all the other mods u wanted to do then get a 16g or whatever you want. if u get the 16g you will need the install kit thats like 200, then the turbo thats like 350 used. then your going to be dyeing to turn it up, so then youl need all your supporting mods, before you know it your visa is maxed. just get the t25 for like 200 bucks and take your time with it.
 
Thanks for the posts guys. I guess I'll look into the 16g's and the t-28. This way I won't have to buy another turbo down the road. Are these pretty much direct bolt ons or will I have to modify much? I'm no expert mechanic, but I'm pretty handy. Hopefully this won't be too bad of an install.
 
OK, where would be a Any of the vendors on this site better than the others?
 
weaver said:
OK, where would be a Any of the vendors on this site better than the others?


Most of the vendors on this website can supply you with the real evoIII. The cheepest price you will find right now is turbochargers.com. They have the real MHI evoIII for $459 and then they have the GT version which comes ported & with the bigger flapper mod for $499. The GT version ISN't made by MHI. Some think the GT is great other have had it crap out really quickly. If you do a search on those 2 turbos on here you can read for days and make up your own mind. I personally would only go with the real MHI evoIII as its been proveen over & over again. You will probably want to look at the 34mm flapper to help prevent boost creep & also port it (see the tech article on the proper evoIII porting). With this turbo you will want to atleast rewire your stock fuel pump (cheep & easy to do) and run 14 psi or under. Even at that low of boost you will still be moving alot more air then the tiny t25 did at 16 psi. The evoIII isn't a direct bolt on but its pretty dame close. You need an install kit which most vendors will offer for $125-200. This will include a jpipe which will allow you to connect to your stock intercooler pipes as the evo compressor outlet exits in a different location compared to the t25. It will also have an oil supply line, sometimes an oil return line, or you can just mod you stock return line (easy to do), new turbo to manifold & turbo to O2 housing gaskets, plus some other gaskets & screws. The water lines on the 2 turbos are slightly different but you can just bend the ones off your t25 to make them fit. For more info check out the VFAQ www.vfaq.com on how to go about the install & RRE also has some good info on their website www.roadraceengineering.com

The evoIII is a great street turbo. When you get the proper supporting mods and turn it up to 17+ psi, it really starts to get fun :thumb:
 
Thanks alot. You guys are really helpful. On that kit at slowboy, what is that $100 package. Looks like a downpipe and I don't know what else. Also would it be worth my money to have it ported?
 
weaver said:
Thanks alot. You guys are really helpful. On that kit at slowboy, what is that $100 package. Looks like a downpipe and I don't know what else. Also would it be worth my money to have it ported?

That is the install kit for the 16g turbo. It gives you the abillity to bolt an upward facing compressor outlet turbo (14b or 16g TDO5h) up to your stockICP. It also comes with the neccessary lines and fittings for the oil and coolant lines for the different turbo. Yes prting would be a good idea, but as mentioned above you can port it yourself for less. (DO NOT PORT THE COMPRESSOR SIDE OF THE TURBO) Porting the turbine (exhaust) side of the turbo increases flow through the turbo which will help with top end power. This turbo is capable of 400+ whp so it should be a great turbo for you and will have similar spool characteristics to the big t28 with better top end power.

PS if you get the SBR kit then I would put your stock mani up for sell because it will help pay some of the expense. 1G guys are always looking for 2G manifolds because they are stronger and flow better than the stock 1G.
 
Show your dealer this link:

Forced Performance --The best in the business.

And ask them where the rest of the $1455 is going...

Really, do this. I had my dealership quote me $887 for a head gasket replacement. They said they would have it done within the day. I asked thim how much a stock replacement gasket was. They said, "$65". I asked them how much the charge for labor per hour. They said, "$60". I added the numbers up (8 hours X $60 = $480; $480 + $65 = $545) and asked them where the $342 was going and immediately I was referred to a "manager" who reveiwed the quote and adjusted it to $600. Then I left and bought a manual and did it myself.LOL
 
The $100 upgrade from slowboy can be seen here:

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=93&

The thing that you think looks like a downpipe is actually an oil return line. The kit includes new coolent lines, oil return line, some rubber hose to extend the coolent lines and some crush washers & bango bolt for the coolent lines. You don't need this upgrade, if your capable of some tweaking yourself. If you refer to my above post, you can mod your stock oil return line, can use the t25 coolent lines just have to bend them abit & you can get a small section of rubber hose from any auto parts store to extend the one coolent line. I gave you a link to RRE which would explain the difference in install kits and what you need but maybe you couldn't find the info you were looking for so here is a direct link:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g16ginstallkit.htm

Did you check out the www.vfaq.com ? There are specific install instructions there that will help you out alot. As for porting yes it should be done. The evoIII is known to creep. Most vendors won't do all the porting that is required to prevent this turbo from creeping. The best bet is to do the porting yourself. There is a tech article on this website on specifically how to port the evoIII to prevent creep.

Marc91gsx, yes you can port the compressor side and it is a good idea. You don't port the compressor inlet but you do want to port the compressor outlet to match the inlet of your j-pipe for maximum flow.
 
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